Unblueing an enfield rifle?

[privstull]

Hello all,

Lately some of my pards and I were talking over how accurate taking off the blueing of an 1853 enfield was. I have looked through photos and documents but have found little information, for whether or not the enfields were unblued. I would like some opinions or advice from some of you guys out there for how accurate unblueing or keeping it blued would be. I was not sure if anyone had any sources of information I did not know of. I have seen a number of reenactors with their blueing removed, but just wasn't sure for their exact reason why. Thanks ahead for those who will answer.

[NY Pvt]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

You New Hampshire boys correct me if I am wrong, but I thought Col. Cross made his brigade de-blue their Enfields to make sure they were keeping them clean.

[major]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

The question as to how Enfields should be finished is actually a long running debate, with the metal blued or in the bright? There are several theories, the first being that the officers made the men remove the bluing in order to make them look more like Springfields. This also gave the men something to do to keep busy in order to keep up with the rust that would quickly develop if the muskets were not taken care of. Second that the bluing was just so poorly done that it wore off all by itself. The last argument is that the bluing wasn’t taken off at all and many of the pictures of the muskets in the bright are tricks of light on the tintypes. Take your pick but all the Federal units and most of the Confederate re-enacting units that I am aware of require the bluing be removed. If you want your musket to be in the blue you could have it reblued after the defarb job is completed.

For more detailed information checkout the article by Walden at the following address.

http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/1864/enf/enfblue.htm

Terry

[Jeffrey Przewozniak]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Hi there,

This is a good article to read...

http://www.geocities.com/pentagon/Quarters/1864/enf/bluepics.htm

and from another thread a while back...

http://www.oldsouthantiques.com/os565p1.htm

...some shots of a blued enfield. I am in earnest,

[Jeffrey Przewozniak]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Ha!

You were one minute ahead of me, Terry! :)

[flattop32355]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Before the last crash, debate was held (again, apparently) on the predominance of bright vs blued. The evidence available seemed to indicate that there were lots of both, but that most if not all of a given unit's muskets would be one or the other, not mixed.

[JCbluegrassrifles]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

To my understanding, some boys on both sides were told to de-blue their Enfields in order to disguise them during battle as U.S. Springfields. The Yanks would do it as a way to blend in with the rest of the army that would carry Springfields and some with '42 Smoothbores. The main reason to de-blue for living history is to remove the modern markings and maker stamps. Since Euroarms and Armi Sport are overseas, their weapons cannot be sent here without certain modern marks by law. I have seen Confederate portrayals were boys have taken the marks off and then had the barrel re-blued. This unfortunately does not turn out too well unless you know a very good gunsmith. Most of the re-blued rifles I have seen rust more easily for some odd reason and have to be continually re-blued. It's an interesting query, but in the end the best thing to do is de-blue and take good care of the rifle from too much rust. Rust WILL occur under circumstances, but a little bit I'm sure is not inaccurate. But weapon care is a primary concern. Don't let your rifle lay in the trunk of your car between events, please take care of it. The only thing that a soldier had in battle was his rifle. His life depenede on it, and your portrayal should echo that same thought.

[Clark Badgett]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Blued is no more incorreect than bright. I've seen both ways on both sides.

[dusty27]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Blued is no more incorreect than bright. I've seen both ways on both sides.

Clark, what is this statement based on? When you say you've "...seen both ways on both sides", are you referring to period pictures (if so, please reference them) or are you referring to seeing both ways at reenactments? If it is the latter, that observation doesn't prove anything.

Please clarify.

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Leave it Blue. Bright Enfields are way overdone, and the documentation for bright Enfields is minimal at best. The only reason to burnish your musket is if you can document the unit you protray had bright Enfields. Otherwise buy a Springfield.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Hallo Kameraden!

Indeed...

As manufactured, the Pattern 1853 Second and Third Model "Enfield" were rust-blued (a durable blackish finish).

1. The issue is whether one's unit impression is documented as having "unaltered" Enfields or whether they were either armoury "struck bright" or ordered by a commander to be field "struck bright."
2. Failing that, the PEC is "unstruck bright." ;-)
and..

3. "This unfortunately does not turn out too well unless you know a very good gunsmith. Most of the re-blued rifles I have seen rust more easily for some odd reason and have to be continually re-blued."

This is because they are not properly rust-blued, which is a durable metal treatment designed to reatard or prevent rust. Instead, many lads use a low-quality "liquid or paste gun blue" (like Birchwood Casey) which produces a fragile, uneven, thin, and somewhat transparent finish. In addition, because the main ingredient is an acid, unless residual acid is neutralized, it continues the reaction and promotes rust.

I will look for my files, as I had previously posted a step-by-step "how to" in the now unavailable ARCHIVES on how to achieve a true rust-blued barrel, at home, for under $15-20.

If any pard who used it, and saved it, an e-mailo might save me a lot of searching?

Danke.

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[JACKSONVC]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Not living to far from the Museum at Gettysburg and having looked at numberous Enfields over the years at many other museums, I have seen weapons that were obviously deblued, those that were not and those that the blueing was worn off the weapon. As stated above, military necessity and commanders desire for unifomity would have dictated any alteration to issued weapons. Has anyone found in diarys or letters any evidence that soldiers or certian regiments being ordered to deblue their weapons?

[10TnVI]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

Here you go Heinrich-so if the format looks weird.

Rust Bluing Enfield Barrels

Howdy, Comrades!

As promised....
Different gunsmiths, and different lads will all have their own personal
favorites and methods. This is just once that is affordable, easy, and
reduces many of the problems associated with the first-time user.
There is a great deal of misinformation concerning the period Enfield
factory "rust blued" barrel finish. Most of it is due to "reenacting lore"
where lads have removed the modern spurious Italian markings from their
barrels and reblued the barrel with liquid or past bluing. Both liquid and
paste bluing is a poor, thin, and easily worn off surface finish which has
given rise to the lore that original Enfield "blue" was thin and easily worn
off. The second is partly due to looking at once "Arsenal" of "field bright"
original Enfields that have taken on a brown age patina (rust brown) over
the past 150+ years, or, were factory blue where the "black" has naturally
changed to brown over the years as well.
My technique can be done for about $20, if you have to buy all the
"chemicals," depending upon prices where one lives. A bottle of browning
will do 2 or 3 barrels, so it gets cheaper if one goes in with a pard or two
and split the costs. It generally takes 4-6 "treatments" that each take less
than five (5) minutes, once every 12 hours. Depending upon the time of
year and humidity inside, I have stretched the 12 to once every 24 hours
with the same results.
The process entails using a liquid, "cold acid" browning solution but
modifying the atomic reaction to produce a black rust-blue (so-called
"blue" in America) instead of a a rust-brown finish.
The finish is deep, durable, and long lasting as was the original.

1. There are many acid browning liquids on the market that will work. For
beginners, I recommend Laurel Mountain Forge's "Barrel Brown &
Degreaser." The reason why is that a good finish is highly dependent upon
degreasing the
barrel. Laurel Mountain is self-degreasing, which eliminates any traces of oil
or grease one may have missed!
2. The barrel needs to be stripped of its modern bluing. Birchwood Casey
makes a good rust and bluing remover. Brush it on, let it set, steel wool
and/or Scotch-Brite it off. It usually takes 5-6 times to fully strip the old
bluing. A
buffing wheel with emory grit is faster, but takes more time being sure all
traces of grit residue is removed as it will interfere with the process and
leave spots and streaks. Warning: steel wool tends to be oily as well.
3. The barrel needs to be removed from the stock, the nipple and muzzle
plugged. I use my daughter's Play-Doh. One does not want acid to get
inside the bore.
4. Wearing latex surgical gloves, or clean work gloves, wipe the barrel
down with a soft cloth and a solution such as paint thinner, paint remover,
acetone, automotive carburetor degreaser, etc. When done, wipe it down
with rubbing alcohol .
5. Take a 48 inch section of white 2.5" PVC "plumbing" and two end caps.
Measure in about 2 inches from the end caps, and then cut a 2 inch wide
section from mark to mark with a saber saw. This makes a scalding trough.
Some
lads with no tools use the PVC with only one end cap. Others can use their
bathtub when their wife is out shopping. A "trough" is not required, it just
makes it easer.
6. Never touch the degreased barrel with your hands (fingerprints are oil-
wear gloves or use a cloth or clean rag). Lay the barrel up on top of a
piece of wood at either end.
7. Pour a little Laurel Mountain solution into a Dixie cup, lid, or even a small
bowl (this keeps the main bottle uncontaminated.
8. Using a wool swab, or just a little folded square of lint-free cloth, apply
a light coating of solution to the barrel being sure to cover uniformly and
evenly.
9. Return in 12 hours. The barrel will have turned orange and yellow in
places. The places you missed will be silver still.
10. Repeat Step 8 and Step 9. (putting a little extra on where you missed.)

11. When you return, the barrel should be orangery "brownishish."
12. Boil a tea kettle or pot of water.
13. NEVER TOUCHING THE BARREL WITH BARE HANDS, put the barrel in the
scalding trough, or bath tub, and pour the boiling water over it to scald it.
14. When cool enough to hold with gloves or a cloth, rub a cloth briskly
over the barrel to remove build up and "rust scale."
15. Repeat Step 8, 9, 12, and 13 applying LM solution, letting it work for
12 hours, then scalding, de-scaling, and repeating Step 15.
16. The barrel should have turned black. When a deep, dark, uniform black,
you are almost done. You can go back and repeat the process for spots
that did not take.
17. Rub the barrel with baking soda to "kill" the acid.
18. "Paint" the barrel with oil (car oil works well) and let set overnight to
soak into the pores of the steel.
19. Wipe off the oil. Clean out the semi-stiff Play-Doh.
20. Wax the barrel inside and out with beeswax/tallow.
21. Enjoy your correct "rust-blue" barrel. With a little care, it will last
longer than you. (If after many years, it does not, simply REDO it...)

Again, this is one way of many, but it works well. If it doesn't, strip it and
start over... ;-)
And, if 2 or 3 pards pitch in, the "share" can drop down to about less than
$8 or $10.

I am rusty (no pun intended) on the atomic/chemical process at work. If I
remember high school chemistry well enough, the acid solution accelerates
the oxidation (rusting) of the iron in the steel by adding oxygen atoms to
the iron atom (which makes ferrous oxide, or "rust"). The scalding adds an
extra oxygen atom, making ferric oxide, or "black"). Over time, the extra
oxygen atom is lost to the environment, which changes the ferric to
ferrous, and black to brown (brown patina). At any rate, high school
chemistry teachers out there can correct that...

Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown & Degreaser is available from most
muzzleloading or blackpowder shops and mail order businesses. Around
here, it sells for $7 a bottle.

For my own expierence, I've examined 6 original enfields in various places. Of these 5 were blued and the only bright one was in the Charleston citymuseum, so I'm leaving mine blued now(besides-my historical unit was equipped with Lorenze's anyway)

[ephraim_zook]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

For what it's worth, the following comes from Butterfield's Camp & Outpost Duty for Infantry, 1862. In the chapter entitled "Extracts from the Revised Regulations for the Army, 1862, that should be known by every soldier", I quote:

"105. All arms in the hands of the troops, whether browned or bright, will be kept in the state in which the are issued by the Ordnance Department. Arms will not be taken to pieces without permission of a commissioned officer. Bright barrels will be kept clean and free from rust without polishing them; care should be taken in rubbing not to bruise or bend the barrel..." (italics mine)

Does that mean that the regs were always followed? Not likely, but it is an official guideline for us.

Ron Myzie

[Yellowhammer]

Re: Unblueing an enfield rifle?

"Leave it Blue. Bright Enfields are way overdone, and the documentation for bright Enfields is minimal at best."

Ummm... documentation please.