arkansas mystery jacket

[Backus]

I've been recently doing some research on uniforms issued by the state of Arkansas. Now I know about the frock, but looking deeper I've found that in the clothing records for the 34th Arkansas in 62 show issuance of jackets and coats.
Now my original line of thought was that jacket referred to a shell jacket, and coat referring to frock coat. This being the case frocks for officers and jackets for the enlisted men.
Looking more in depth though I have found that privates were issued the frocks as well.
And this is where I become a bit confused. What is the jacket?
Is there any chance that it was a fatigue jacket? I have found a shell jacket produced by the Arkansas penitentiary system, the same location that the frocks where produced.
I would greatly appreciate all your input.

[FloridaConscript]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

I don't know about Arkansas specifiaclly, but CS officers were to provide their own kit. Does the documentation show officers being issued clothing?

[dirtyshirt]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Hey Tom,
There is too the possibility that those terms may not specifically refer to a certain type of garment. I have seen the use of Jackets meaning Shell Jackets, and Coats also meaning shell jackets, and the term blouse meaning a sack coat...just my two cents.

[mslaird]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Mr. Backus,

I have been doing a large amount of research on uniforms in Arkansas and I have uncovered a small amount of information that may help you a bit. The existing original "Little Rock" pattern frock coat is one that dated from late 1862 and was taken in 1863 when Litte Rock was captured. The troops in Arkansas, it seems from the data and photographs that I have seen were issued frock coats on a fairly large basis throughout the war until 1863 and the fall of the state government. The early war photographs pretty much show men wearing frock coats and men wearing battle shirts with equal regularity. Troops in other areas were issued clothing that came from the depots in those systems of supply. For example, those in Mississippi, drawing clothing, would have had access to the same clothing as troops in Mississippi regiments due to serving within the borders of Mississippi at the time that the clothing was drawn. I have seen a very interesting photograph of Private Thomas Bolding of the 24th Arkansas, who is wearing a 5 button shell jacket with two slash breast pockets that button in the center. I am working on reproducing that jacket at present.

The original of the Bolding photograph resides in the Sweeny museum in Republic, Missouri. There is another photograph of two soldiers from the 14th Alabama that are wearing a similar pattern jacket with the buttoned slash pockets on them. It is possible that these jackets from Alabama, manufactured in the fall of 1861 are related to the jacket that Thomas Bolding is wearing in his photograph. Thomas Bolding served in the 24th Arkansas from June 19, 1862 until December 1863 in Company G. His jacket would have been issued to him during that period. Also, the photograph of James McIntosh shows what looks like a "Richmond Depot", "Commutation" or could even be a faded Federal shell jacket. A photograph of Pvt C.F. Wrefrey, of the 1st Arkansas State Cavalry (Confederate) also shows a nine button shell jacket that could be blue as well. Wrefrey was enlisted in May 1861 although it is not clear when the photograph was taken.

The existance of sack type coats is also evident in early war militia companies. The Van Buren Frontier Guards militia company wore a nine button blue or dark grey sack coat in the early part of the war.

Then there exists the jacket that resides in the Oklahoma Historical Society's collection of "Columbus Depot" type and is thought by some to have belonged to a Pvt. Smith in an Arkansas infantry regiment. There is also an excellent surviving original cotton "penitentiary jacket" in Kentucky that belonged to an Arkansas infantryman in the later part of the war.

I hope this helps a bit. I will see if I can dig up some more digital copies of photographs mentioned above for you.

[DougCooper]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Mr. Backus,

The existance of sack type coats is also evident in early war militia companies. The Van Buren Frontier Guards militia company wore a nine button blue or dark grey sack coat in the early part of the war.

Then there exists the jacket that resides in the Oklahoma Historical Society's collection of "Columbus Depot" type and is thought by some to have belonged to a Pvt. Smith in an Arkansas infantry regiment. There is also an excellent surviving original cotton "penitentiary jacket" in Kentucky that belonged to an Arkansas infantryman in the later part of the war.

I hope this helps a bit. I will see if I can dig up some more digital copies of photographs mentioned above for you.

A 9 button "sack coat"? Kentucky "penitentiary jacket"? Would love to see documentation/photos on these two items.

[Gallo de Cielo]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Arkansas, like her sister Trans-Mississippi states of LA and TX, produced rough cloth within its prison system. That cloth was then made into a variety of items (jackets, frock coats, trousers, tents, etc). The facility in Arkansas was located in Little Rock, a city which fell to the Federals by the mid-point of the war. The facility in Louisiana fell even earlier. Only Texas managed to keep its large looming and weaving facility open for the duration of the war.

As a result, the facilities in AR and LA produced less cloth and thus fewer garments than the mills in Huntsville, TX.

Like virtually every Confederate State, Arkansas went to war with a mixed bag of "uniforms." A few of the lads wore their dandy militia uniforms from the pre-war days. Others wore what they had at home. Others were hurriedly equipped by aid societies, patriotic sewing groups, etc. As the CS and state governments slowly came on-line, the frock coats, round-abouts, shell jackets, trousers, etc made from Arkansas penitentiary cloth was issued out to the troops. Period images and returns seem to indicate that a great many of the troops raised and sent east of the Mississippi to serve under Earl Van Dorn were equipped in frock coats, largely (though not entirely) of the pattern/description we now refer to as "Little Rock frock coats." The scratch army raised by Thomas Hindman was likely equipped from these same goods.

It appears that the majority of the garments produced prior to the fall of the Little Rock facilities were frock coats and trousers, with significantly fewer shell jackets/round-abouts.

I would dispute that 9-button sack coats were produced. These are almost assuredly frock coats. I can see where folks can look at an image of a man wearing a frock coat and believe it to be a coat with no tails (sack coat, shell jacket, etc) as the skirting of the frock was often bent back at the waist and tough to see in images.

The jackets made in GA, in my opinion, are an entirely different animal. The GA edition of "Portraits of Conflict" shows something like 3-5 of these jackets, all featuring the same button front, slash pocket on the right breast, epauletts, etc (images attached). To my knowledge, these garments are all attributed to the 4th GA.

The "Kentucky/Arkansas Jacket" is the Prentice jacket. The Kentucky connection is purely because the jacket now resides in Kentucky. Prentiss was an Arkansas soldier who served on the west side of the Mississippi River. He reenlisted in July of 1862, moving from the 1st Ark Vols to the 38th Ark Infantry. He was captured in Sept of 1863 south of Little Rock. The Prentice jacket is interesting in many ways. It appears to be made of a drill material rather than jean, cassimere, or kersey. It is heavily, if not entirely, machine constructed (image attached). It is unclear where the jacket was produced- perhaps in Little Rock in the last days of the facility there. It's a summer-weight garment and could have been issued in time to clothe the men in the state's central district in time for the hot months.

I believe that we need to think about honing our questions a bit more before posting them on this forum. I am not personally convinced that there is a correlation between a Columbus Depot jacket in OK, an undyed jacket in KY, and images of boys from GA, AL, and AR in '61. I would caution about casting out a bunch of theories that are hard to prove. Did some boys in GA commision matching uniforms for their particular regiment? Images seem to back that up. Did those jackets loosely match in some form or fashion jackets worn by many fellows in the early days of the war when getting something resembling a uniform jacket was the top priority? Yes, though I doubt that GA, AL and AR (and other CS states) were acting in any remote degree of concerted action in those early, hectic days of the war. Acting in concert seems to be something that the Confederacy never master. The Trans-Mississippi was perhaps the worst example of this.

Folks looking to get their arms around this would be well-served to read Robert L Kerby's fine piece "Kirby Smith's Confederacy." The Portraits of Conflict series (not complete for every Confederate state) would be a good resource to see SOME images, largely early-war with a few mid-war dates, of troops clad in all form and fashion of attire.

My two cents,

[D F Smith Historic]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Hi All

Just an FYI regarding the So Called Arkansas "Prentice" Jacket at Bardstown.

While I was an Interpretive Ranger at Mansfield Battlefield State Historic Site in Louisiana. I had some more insight on this particular uniform piece. As it seemed to be related to a particular unit that was part Churchill’s Brigade (which was moving toward the fight, but was not engaged).

After having difficulty in dealing with the Bardstown Museum on official capacity requesting information (several official letters sent & phone calls made, but no real reply) I went there to see & examine the coat in person.

After conferring with 2 fellow members of the Company of Military Historians who had examined the coat as well, and seeing the coat for myself & finally tracking down a person to talk with at the museum that knew anything about the jacket, which was not much.

It turns out there is NO solid information on the so called white Arkansas "Prentice" jacket ( aside from the battle history of the soldier & regiment, Nothing on the jacket itself or it's provenance).

From careful examination in person, the jacket doesn’t match the period image of Pvt. Prentice supposedly wearing said jacket in a period image.

The collar is a different cut entirely, the button spacing is very noticably different, and the materiel is different in shade and weight (As indicated by how the garment "hangs" on Pvt Prentice in his photo). Materiel of the so called Prentice jacket is linen, the jacket in the period image of Prentice appears to be of a much heavier fabric, like cotton jean or woll/cotton jean.

It seems quite possibly (& this is my opinion) that it is a jacket modified or made during the 1961-1965 centennial.


No doubt, from period images that there were jackets of this configuration made during the war, BUT this particular jacket is more than likely not one of them.

Just because an item is in a museum, doesn't make that item a legitimate period piece.

My .o2


Don S

[GreencoatCross]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Don,

THANK YOU for your statements about the Prentice jacket. I've been to the Bardstown museum and while it does have some original items, I feel that many if not most of the uniform pieces are related to the centennial. In my opinion, the Prentice jacket is no exception but a lot of people I discuss it with take issue with that.

[D F Smith Historic]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Hi Brian,

No problem, I believe it is important, especially with existing uniforms, to be extra careful in figuring if a uniform or accoutrement item is legitimate or not.

In the end we need to let the facts lead, and leave supposition at the door.

A legitimate garment will "show" it is real by a number of things it presents to the viewer.....It takes knowing these attributes by studying known originals with solid provenance and documentation to know if an item being examined speaks truthfully.

This also helps weed out intentional fakes made to deceive and outright fabrications.

Kind of like how counterfeit bills are found out by the US Treasury or FBI. The examiner studies real bills to be able to see the flaws in a fake.

All the best


Don S

[GreencoatCross]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

I've definitely had a similar experience with an alleged U.S. Sharpshooter frock in a private collection. It was my first research trip and of course I was excited at the prospect of viewing what I thought would be an important piece of history (especially since I was and still am researching the U.S.S.S.). I got to the man's house and he had quite an extensive collection of original uniforms, most identified, including every variation of mounted service jackets, a fatigue blouse, uniform coats, VRC jacket, engineer's private purchase frock, and an example of one of each rank of officer's garment from 2nd lieutenant to major general.

The "Berdan" frock was exciting....I remember taking extensive notes and photographs of it over the course of a few hours. Something felt "off" about the coat but since we were fledgling researchers we didn't know what. The pattern seemed weird, so did the lining, amount of pockets, large hook at the waist, and a collar tab similar to the kind found on WWI era uniforms. After thinking it over and finally seeing several more identical coats, it turned out that it was simply a post-war lodge coat. I later shared this opinion with the owner, who apparently had spent a LOT of money on it, so he was not thrilled at all. He tried convincing me that it was maybe a post-war U.S.S.S. reunion coat but by then I had seen about half a dozen like it. Dan Wambaugh has one sitting in his closet!

That first step into the world of garment research (AND collecting, which sometimes baffles me) made a difference and since then I've been a lot more deliberate when studying extant originals. If it weren't for that trip I might not have gone on to do what I do now or grown such a strong interest into seeing other collections.

(I feel that I've hijacked the thread a bit...sorry about that guys!)

Speaking of Arkansas jackets, isn't the Appler uniform part another example or am I mistaken? I've read about it on the forum and seen a few photos, but am not completely familiar with it's history.

[mslaird]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Frock coats and shell jackets...

I am in complete agreement with Mr. Baker on this regard. The majority of photographic images from 1861 to 1863 show frock coats of varying states of trim and button arrangement. The Thomas Bolding photograph is a bit unusual in the jacket he is wearing which is why I posted about it. It is the only early to mid war photograph of an Arkansas soldier with a jacket of that type that I have personally seen.

The Prentiss Jacket...

I mentioned that particular jacket and the similarly questionable provenanced jacket in Oklahoma because they were attributed to service in an Arkansas regiment. Whether they were actually used by men from Arkansas, we may never prove or disprove. Troops from Arkansas would draw from the supply system in the region they were operating in. The 3rd in Virginia, the 15th NW in Mississippi, the 6th in Tennessee, etc. I don't believe that there was a concerted effort undertaken by Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee or Mississippi in equipping the troops from Arkansas.

I was rather skeptical about the Prentiss jacket as well when I saw the photographs of it. This may sound a bit on the understated side, but, I thought that it appeared in too good of condition for a garment that was manufactured from material that thin. I have my grandfather's tropical whites from WWII and they are only 60 years old, were well cared for and they look rough compared to that jacket which is supposedly one hundred and forty five years old. I knew that there was no information that established provenance with that piece but as was stated there are photographs of a similar jacket. (similar being the operative term) Thanks for your clarification on that item Mr. Smith.

As for the 9 button sack coat...

To my knowledge, and believe me I am looking, there are not any photographs of them. I believe that the information mentioned in Uniforms of the Civil War by Ron Smith and Ron Field, about the description could have been taken from a newspaper description or a journal and I am looking for more information about that jacket and about the Van Buren unit that used it as a uniform. As far as I know the sack coat mentioned was a uniform item related only to that unit. If I am successful in my endeavor to find the information concerning it, I will post it as soon as I get it. I believe in sharing the wealth when it comes to information.

Thank you Mr. Smith and Mr. Baker for adding additional clarification, good discussion and images.

[Gallo de Cielo]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Matthew and all,

Yes, good discussion.

If I seemed a bit ornrey with my post yesterday, I apologize. We had a wrath of God thunderstorm move through during the middle of the night. My youngster was up for a while which meant I was up for a while. Short night.

Anyway, there is some good discussion going on here.

Brian- the Appler jacket is attributed to a Missouri boy and resides up that way, in St. Louis I believe. Folks could go view it when they come to Lost Tribes.

Regards,

[Andrew Kasmar]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Brian- the Appler jacket is attributed to a Missouri boy and resides up that way, in St. Louis I believe. Folks could go view it when they come to Lost Tribes.

Do you happen to know where in St. Louis? I would be very interested in seeing this jacket. Thanks


Andrew

[D F Smith Historic]

Re: Appler jacket

Hi All,

This is a good discussion! Always love a good discussion on Trans-Miss Uniforms.


Man, the Appler jacket is one neat garment. If I remember correctly, it has diagonal quilt stitching in the jacket body & is fully padded all the way around. I have notes on this jacket in my file cabinent. I will have to pull them out to take a look at them.

If I remeber correctly , it is a comutation period jacket and is though to not be a government issue garment.

VERY cool jacket!

Don S

[Gallo de Cielo]

Re: arkansas mystery jacket

Last I knew it was the property of the Missouri Historical Society. When I contacted them about publishing a few images I have of the jacket and matching trousers, they were unwilling to give permission. All the more reason to go view it in-person.

The cloth, pattern of the jacket, and provenance all make this a very fascinating item.