Sack Coat Wool

[jjszabo]

Could someone tell me if this would be the correct wool flannel to make a sack coat? A pard of mine bought this wool and wanted me to make him a sack coat.

Has anyone used B Black and Sons wool flannel to make a sack coat?

http://www.bblackandsons.com/navy-flannel-fabric-p-213.html

Thanks for the help,

Jeff Sabol

[Matthew Semple]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

I am very familiar with B. Black & Sons wool flannel and have used it for numerous civilian overshirts and some other garments.

What kind of "sack" coat does your friend want you to make? Civilian or military?

The reason I ask is because this material has never compared against any of the original military issued "sack" coats (both US and CS) that I have examined over the past 15 years. However, it has compared against some civilian garments wartime and immediate post-wartime that I have examined.

[musketbal]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

Hey Jeff,
Have you tried Wambaugh and White? They are the best of the best in any aspect reguarding uniforms. Their business practice is beyond reproach.
Hope this may be of some help,
A. Brent Conner
Eastern Shore of Maryland

[PieBoy96]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

Hi Jeff,

That material appears to be lacking the correct weave. This strays a tad from your original inquiry, but for future reference... take a 45 minute drive up Rt. 15 to Gettysburg and go to Needle and Thread: http://www.woodedhamlet.com They have a couple fabric options that are appropriate for Federal Sack Coats, including my personal preference, the County Cloth Fatigue Blouse Flannel, located in their Civil War materials bin. Remember, there are numerous "correct" shades of blue, just be sure it is a true blue and not purpleish: http://www.cwquartermaster.com/original_sack_coats.htm

These images show both the appropriate weave and variations in colors:

http://www.cwquartermaster.com/Facing%20Detail1.jpg

http://www.cwquartermaster.com/sack__will_ron_facings.JPG

[DougCooper]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

The description says it all, as well as the picture: "also known as Rug Hooking Felt." Good advice from Paul. Child's F-1 is a great fabric and you can get it just up the road!

[FranklinGuardsNYSM]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

While not to say that there AREN'T non-traditional sources for accurate (by which I mean weight, color, weave, and content) military fabrics, it's very hit-or-miss to order yardage from only a picture online. At the very least, a swatch in-hand should be your guide. Only once have I lucked out and found blue wool flannel that I would use (and have used) for fatigue blouses, and it was certainly the exception to the rule of regularly scouring the fabric stores in NYC. Most blue wool flannel commercially available doesn't agree with me for use in fatigue blouses, and your best course of action is to use a known specialty supplier unless you're ABSOLUTELY sure that you've found a fluke among the remnant racks.

[KeithRK]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

I have sack coats made from both County Cloth and Wambaugh White & Co. flannel. Child's flannel is a bit darker and has a little more pronounced "wale" in the weave than Wambaugh's. I like them both. You really can't go wrong with either. In the photo, the sleeve on the left is County Cloth flannel, the one on the right is Wambaugh's.

[jjszabo]

Re: Sack Coat Wool

Thanks Guys!!

I didn't see a response so I decided not to get the fabric. I went to the Needle and Thread and bought County Cloth Fatigue Blouse Flannel. Now I know I have the correct wool.

Mr. Conner, I agree Wambaugh and White coats are supperior and their customer service is top notch. I made one of their sack coat kits and it turned out GREAT.

I was asking because I also follow the sewing academy forum (although civilian) and I saw some recommendations for B Black and sons wool.

Maybe I'll make a vest out of some of their wool?

Thanks again,

Jeff Sabol