Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Wick,

I did ten sample buttonholes on scraps of the material I intended to work with (layered, with the interlining I planned to use inside) before I did my first actual one on the coat. Yes, it's several more hours work but it gave me a great deal of confidence going into the "real deal". Those "faux" buttonholes are still floating around here, I sometimes find one when I open a drawer or search through an old box.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

I've done this type of button hole in the past. But, like you, I did several on scraps before my trembling hand forced a chisel through a coat. Its a good way to practice. I'm sure the taylors of the 19th Century could crank out those buttonholes "lickety-split", but I have to make up for my lack of experience by taking my time. So, each coat-sized buttonhole takes me about an hour. I got two of the cuff sized ones done in just over an hour.

[J.H.Berger]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Hey John, you will have to practise. As a professional taylor you would have 8 minutes per buttonhole! At least that is what my wife was told during her apprenticeship as gentleman's taylor. It would be nice if you could post some pics of your buttonholes!

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Jan,
I'll never get there... I just don't have enough opportunity to practice. Here's a pic of the type of buttonhole I will be doing, though:

These were from a Federal vest that I made a while back.

[J.H.Berger]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Don't worry pard, they look excellent!

[westcoastcampaigner]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

John,

If that's the style of button hole you are planning on going with, I would stick to that. They look awesome! Nice work.

Regards,

Josh Sawyer
Liberty Rifles

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Thanks, Josh! To really do those right takes a lot of work. You have to lay down stitching before you ever cut the hole, then overcast the hole, THEN actually do the buttonhole. IMO, sewing Fed stuff is a lot more taxing than CS, if for no other reason than you have to do your stitching with dark thread on dark fabric. You can NEVER have too much light shining on your work while you sew.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Hallo!

I like to use what i call "sewing glasses" even tohugh I do not need glasses.

2.0, 2.5 or even 3.0 "reading" glasses (aka "magnifiers") that a local chain sells for .88 or .99, that when used with a decent amount of light and light direction- make it easier to see and lay down fine stitchwork especially on no-contrast or low-contrast colored fabrics and ESPECIALLY when doing finer button-hole work.

Curt
Blind Pew Mess

[41strifleman]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

With what Curt said about magnification- My wife's father had one of those lighted magnifier lamps that stamp collectors use. It even had a clamp so it could look onto to the end of my sewing table. It makes an incredible difference. A little disconcerting to look at magnified fingers but it really helped at stitching spacing since I could really see what I was doing. I use if for everything now. I still wonder how those women did those coats without real good lighting.
The other thing that has made a big difference was finding a comfortable office type chair to sit in.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

OK, I don't mean to be a jerk, but...

I've been going to bed late and waking up early to put together one of these frock coats... sweating every stitch.

So, coats like this just hurt my eyes! Sorry...

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Wick,

For a second there I thought you were posting a photo of your finished coat.

I didn't know how to break it to you...

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Fed Enlisted Frock Construction Question

Ack!!! Heck no!!!

I saw this pic on-line. After what I've been doing to make a frock, the coat in the pic was just awful.