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Gents,
While considering a new CS shoe purchase, I face a decision between black and russet shoes. Did Confederate soldiers in the Army of Tennessee (or its predecessor, the Army of the Mississippi) wear russet shoes in great enough numbers to warrant representation in the field?
I've read that russet shoes were commonly worn by slaves (e.g. Fred Adolphus's article on Confederate Uniforms coming from Houston, found at http://www.adolphusconfederateunifor...n_uniforms.pdf) Mr. Adolphus writes:
Even though Adolphus's article deals primarily with the Trans-Mississippi QM situation, the association he notes between "russets" and shoes fit only for slaves seems rather applicable to the rest of the Southern Confederacy.
Looking through the UT-Tyler archived Natchez Daily Courier (available at http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/natchez_courier.htm), I found russet shoes mentioned on two dates, the first of which is below (I have included the rest of the ad in which the reference appears for context and general interest):
and
However, compare the availability of russet shoes in January 1861 and March 1863 with the following quotes from the same paper from 1861 to 1863:
The impression that I get is that, going purely on the incidence of "shoes" turning up in a text search of the Natchez Daily Courier, the russet shoes mentioned a few times sure sound a great deal better than canvas shoes or wooden shoes, and of course infinitely better than no shoes. However, the question that raises is whether the russet shoes are only being advertised in the paper because they were perceived as substandard for military issue (and thus fit only for purchase by planters for their slaves).
Do y'all think the majority of black-dyed shoes referenced by Mr. Adolphus in the Trans-Mississippi is equally applicable to other theatres of war? Were russet shoes in the AOT reasonably P-E-C? Do they warrant representation among reenactors?
Best,
JSK
P.S. - I apologize if this post rambles. I was originally going to just post snippets of the newspaper, but the whole entries seemed pretty interesting.
While considering a new CS shoe purchase, I face a decision between black and russet shoes. Did Confederate soldiers in the Army of Tennessee (or its predecessor, the Army of the Mississippi) wear russet shoes in great enough numbers to warrant representation in the field?
I've read that russet shoes were commonly worn by slaves (e.g. Fred Adolphus's article on Confederate Uniforms coming from Houston, found at http://www.adolphusconfederateunifor...n_uniforms.pdf) Mr. Adolphus writes:
"Regrettably, no specific mention is made as to whether the contract shoes were 'blacked.' The evidence suggests, though, that they were. Local contracts in Louisiana required blacked shoes, hinting that Texas quartermaster officers expected the same thing. More significant however, is the occasional description of shoes in various reports as being "russet," or having the reddish-brown shade resulting from oak tanning. Shoes are never described by color in any original documents, except when the adjective "russet" crops up. This strongly suggests that russet colored shoes were so unusual that they deserved comment. Further, when russet shoes are mentioned, they cost less than the other shoes on the same receipts, indicating a lower quality or lack of desirability. The very fact that they are mentioned as such implies that blacked shoes were the norm. Indeed, blacked shoes were very much the style of the day, and even slaves thought it uncouth to sport "red-russets" at dances, preferring to apply a concoction of grease and soot to their shoes to give them the proper tone. One can infer from this that the local contract shoes were usually blacked, but occasionally left russet." (p. 172, "Confederate Clothing of the Houston Quartermaster Depot," Military Collector & Historian, Vol. XLVIII, No. 4, Winter 1996)
Looking through the UT-Tyler archived Natchez Daily Courier (available at http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/natchez_courier.htm), I found russet shoes mentioned on two dates, the first of which is below (I have included the rest of the ad in which the reference appears for context and general interest):
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, January 3, 1861, p. 2, c. 3
Dry Goods, Chamberlin & Smith are now opening for the fall trade of 1860, the most complete stock of dry goods...Louisiana, Alabama, Maryland, and Virginia osnaburgs; brown domestics; linseys, kerseys; jeans; long cloths; bleached domestics; bed ticks; Kentucky Jeans and Linseys; Tennessee Truck, for Trousers; Indigo Blue Jeans, a very fine article manufactured in Baltimore for planters suits; russett [sic] brogans, of three different qualities and prices, as low as the lowest and as good as the best; English and American Navy blankets; English blue gray blankets; bed blankets; mud boots, both black and russet; Kip brogans; Boys boots and shoes; Ladies and Childrens shoes, of all kinds; carpets; oil cloths; druggetts and rugs; window curtains; damasks and shades; flannels, red and white, of all qualities; denims, stripes, plaids and chambrays, apron checks and furniture plaids; table oil cloths; brown and bleached canton flannels; English, French, and American prints; Linen and cotton sheetings and pillow case goods ...
Dry Goods, Chamberlin & Smith are now opening for the fall trade of 1860, the most complete stock of dry goods...Louisiana, Alabama, Maryland, and Virginia osnaburgs; brown domestics; linseys, kerseys; jeans; long cloths; bleached domestics; bed ticks; Kentucky Jeans and Linseys; Tennessee Truck, for Trousers; Indigo Blue Jeans, a very fine article manufactured in Baltimore for planters suits; russett [sic] brogans, of three different qualities and prices, as low as the lowest and as good as the best; English and American Navy blankets; English blue gray blankets; bed blankets; mud boots, both black and russet; Kip brogans; Boys boots and shoes; Ladies and Childrens shoes, of all kinds; carpets; oil cloths; druggetts and rugs; window curtains; damasks and shades; flannels, red and white, of all qualities; denims, stripes, plaids and chambrays, apron checks and furniture plaids; table oil cloths; brown and bleached canton flannels; English, French, and American prints; Linen and cotton sheetings and pillow case goods ...
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, March 14, 1863, p. 1, c. 5
Just Received. 300 prs russet shoes of good quality, and assorted sizes, for sale by S. Schatz, corner of Pine and Jefferson streets. P.S.--I will pay the highest cash price for dry hides. mar14.
Just Received. 300 prs russet shoes of good quality, and assorted sizes, for sale by S. Schatz, corner of Pine and Jefferson streets. P.S.--I will pay the highest cash price for dry hides. mar14.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, September 18, 1861, p. 1, c. 2
Canvas Shoes for the Army. The Quartermaster General's Department in Richmond has received there, 5,000 of a new kind of shoes, of a rather curious description, that promises to answer well in the great scarcity of shoe leather. The upper portions of the shoe are made of canvas instead of leather. The canvas is prepared so as to make it impervious to the weather, and is said to equal in comfort, durability, and all respects of wear, the best of shoe leather.
Canvas Shoes for the Army. The Quartermaster General's Department in Richmond has received there, 5,000 of a new kind of shoes, of a rather curious description, that promises to answer well in the great scarcity of shoe leather. The upper portions of the shoe are made of canvas instead of leather. The canvas is prepared so as to make it impervious to the weather, and is said to equal in comfort, durability, and all respects of wear, the best of shoe leather.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, October 17, 1861, p. 1, c. 2
Home Tanneries.
The great demand for and the scarcity of leather, calls upon every planter to turn his attention to this matter. Many persons have heretofore considered it a business of small importance to give special attention to the hides taken from the cattle killed upon the plantation from time to time during the year. ... The plan usually pursued, is to dig out a trough from the large end of a poplar tree, some two feet deep and the same width, and twelve feet long to supply the place of a tan vat. The hide, as soon as taken from the animal, should be immersed in lime water until the hair is loosened, then taken out, and with a suitable instrument the hair is easily removed; it should then be well washed in water, to remove the lime, when it is ready to be put into the tan vat. Tan or tanning is made of the very best kind, from Oak Bark. I think the White Oak probably the best, but Red Oak, which is so plenty [sic] through this country, will make better leather by far, than most of the shoes we have been buying from the north, made either from Hemlock bark or if not all of Hemlock at part at least. There is no doubt that the leather tanned with cold water is the best, although the process is expedited by heating the water of the tan-vat occasionally. There are other processes by which hides may be made into leather, much sooner than by the old process, but whether the leather is as durable when made by the short plan, is yet doubtful. If this was attended to at once, in twelve months the great difficulty of procuring leather would be overcome, and many dollars which have heretofore gone to enrich our enemies, would be found in our own pockets.
Home Tanneries.
The great demand for and the scarcity of leather, calls upon every planter to turn his attention to this matter. Many persons have heretofore considered it a business of small importance to give special attention to the hides taken from the cattle killed upon the plantation from time to time during the year. ... The plan usually pursued, is to dig out a trough from the large end of a poplar tree, some two feet deep and the same width, and twelve feet long to supply the place of a tan vat. The hide, as soon as taken from the animal, should be immersed in lime water until the hair is loosened, then taken out, and with a suitable instrument the hair is easily removed; it should then be well washed in water, to remove the lime, when it is ready to be put into the tan vat. Tan or tanning is made of the very best kind, from Oak Bark. I think the White Oak probably the best, but Red Oak, which is so plenty [sic] through this country, will make better leather by far, than most of the shoes we have been buying from the north, made either from Hemlock bark or if not all of Hemlock at part at least. There is no doubt that the leather tanned with cold water is the best, although the process is expedited by heating the water of the tan-vat occasionally. There are other processes by which hides may be made into leather, much sooner than by the old process, but whether the leather is as durable when made by the short plan, is yet doubtful. If this was attended to at once, in twelve months the great difficulty of procuring leather would be overcome, and many dollars which have heretofore gone to enrich our enemies, would be found in our own pockets.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, October 30, 1861, p. 1, c. 5
Substitute for Coffee. We are requested to recommend Field Peas, dried, parched, and ground, as an excellent substitute for Coffee, said to be better than wheat or rye.--Fayetteville Observer.
Wooden Shoes. We have seen a beautiful Wooden Shoe, the joint invention of our fellow townsmen, Messrs. Theim and Fraps. It will make a really handsome article of dress, as it looks like a patent leather shoe. The saying that, "there is nothing like leather," will probably cease to be applicable to pedal garments.--Raleigh Register.
Substitute for Coffee. We are requested to recommend Field Peas, dried, parched, and ground, as an excellent substitute for Coffee, said to be better than wheat or rye.--Fayetteville Observer.
Wooden Shoes. We have seen a beautiful Wooden Shoe, the joint invention of our fellow townsmen, Messrs. Theim and Fraps. It will make a really handsome article of dress, as it looks like a patent leather shoe. The saying that, "there is nothing like leather," will probably cease to be applicable to pedal garments.--Raleigh Register.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, January 18, 1862, p. 1, c. 4
Wooden-Soled Shoes. We learn that the Georgia made shoes, with double maple soles are in very good demand. Mr. Markstein has already filled a considerable order from Virginia, for army demand, we suppose. Several planters have been testing their merits, and the result has in all cases proved favorable. In our own immediate vicinity, or in what might properly be called "The Army of Mobile," they have been tried, and the report is so favorable that only yesterday an additional lot was ordered. We have no hesitation in saying that they will prove an excellent marching shoe. Some other article might better suit the double-quick movement, but for an all-day lick they will prove less fatiguing than a more elastic shoe. Besides, the foot is less liable to heat in them, no matter what kind of a sock is worn, or even should the soldier find himself without any. One thing we must say--thought that will not diminish their value among our boys--they'll never do to run away in; indeed, they are a southern shoe, and not designed for that kind of service--Mobile Advertiser.
Wooden-Soled Shoes. We learn that the Georgia made shoes, with double maple soles are in very good demand. Mr. Markstein has already filled a considerable order from Virginia, for army demand, we suppose. Several planters have been testing their merits, and the result has in all cases proved favorable. In our own immediate vicinity, or in what might properly be called "The Army of Mobile," they have been tried, and the report is so favorable that only yesterday an additional lot was ordered. We have no hesitation in saying that they will prove an excellent marching shoe. Some other article might better suit the double-quick movement, but for an all-day lick they will prove less fatiguing than a more elastic shoe. Besides, the foot is less liable to heat in them, no matter what kind of a sock is worn, or even should the soldier find himself without any. One thing we must say--thought that will not diminish their value among our boys--they'll never do to run away in; indeed, they are a southern shoe, and not designed for that kind of service--Mobile Advertiser.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, August 28, 1862, p. 1, c. 3
Another Call.
Colonel Johnson, of General Price's staff, has issued the following call:
To the People of Mississippi.
Quitman, Miss., Aug. 6. I am in your midst for the purpose of procuring shoes and yarn socks for General Price's army. Some of his veterans--men who have been in six or eight pitched battles and twenty skirmishes--are to-day destitute of these two articles, necessary even in camp, but indispensable when the army takes the field. ... Gen. Price desires that the patriotic men of this State should furnish the shoes, and her glorious women the yarn socks. If possible, he would like every white woman in the State to knit at least one pair of socks for his army. While I make this appeal, I think it is proper to add, that I do ask a donation but am prepared to pay a liberal price for both shoes and yarn socks. I shall be pleased to contract with tanners and shoe manufacturers for shoes now on hand, or to be made hereafter; and will be obliged to any person who will let me know where I can make contacts.
For socks, all yarn, white or colored, of good size and length in the leg and foot, I will pay seventy-five cents per pair. They may be sent to me or to Dr. France at this place, where they will be paid for, or may be left with the station agent of the nearest depot of any of the three railroads now in our possession, and sometime soon I will call or send an agent to get them and pay for them. Thomas C. Johnson.
Aide to Gen. Price.
Another Call.
Colonel Johnson, of General Price's staff, has issued the following call:
To the People of Mississippi.
Quitman, Miss., Aug. 6. I am in your midst for the purpose of procuring shoes and yarn socks for General Price's army. Some of his veterans--men who have been in six or eight pitched battles and twenty skirmishes--are to-day destitute of these two articles, necessary even in camp, but indispensable when the army takes the field. ... Gen. Price desires that the patriotic men of this State should furnish the shoes, and her glorious women the yarn socks. If possible, he would like every white woman in the State to knit at least one pair of socks for his army. While I make this appeal, I think it is proper to add, that I do ask a donation but am prepared to pay a liberal price for both shoes and yarn socks. I shall be pleased to contract with tanners and shoe manufacturers for shoes now on hand, or to be made hereafter; and will be obliged to any person who will let me know where I can make contacts.
For socks, all yarn, white or colored, of good size and length in the leg and foot, I will pay seventy-five cents per pair. They may be sent to me or to Dr. France at this place, where they will be paid for, or may be left with the station agent of the nearest depot of any of the three railroads now in our possession, and sometime soon I will call or send an agent to get them and pay for them. Thomas C. Johnson.
Aide to Gen. Price.
TCHEZ DAILY COURIER, September 9, 1862, p. 1, c. 2
Raw-Hide Shoes.
The following interesting item to planters, escaped our notice when first published, but an estimable citizen of Adams county informs us that he is about trying the article, and thinks it will answer every purpose. It is extracted from the Jackson Mississippian:
Capt. Clark Owens, of Texana, Jackson co'y, Texas, has a company of eighty men, now stationed at Houston, Texas, defending the coast, and the city of Galveston. Many of the gallant soldiers are well shod with raw-hide shoes, which in symmetry and utility are not behind the best shoes used in our southern Confederacy. The beef hide is placed in water and ashes, and remains there until the hair will come off; the hide is then soaked in fresh water, and rubbed until the lye is extracted; it is then soaked in strong salt and water, from forty to ninety hours--this prevents the hide from every becoming hard and horny; it is then dried in the open air, not in the sun, and then beat with a maul or mallet, until it becomes pliable as leather; it is then made into shoes as shoemakers make other shoes; the upper part and soles are all of this prepared raw-hide, and made by sewing or pegging on the soles. The shoes are then well greased with oil, hog lard or tallow; greased all over the outside, both upper and bottom parts; this renders the shoe waterproof, and in every way as valuable as the leather shoes. These shoes are made with the grain or hair side out and in every respect are a cheap and valuable shoe.
Raw-Hide Shoes.
The following interesting item to planters, escaped our notice when first published, but an estimable citizen of Adams county informs us that he is about trying the article, and thinks it will answer every purpose. It is extracted from the Jackson Mississippian:
Capt. Clark Owens, of Texana, Jackson co'y, Texas, has a company of eighty men, now stationed at Houston, Texas, defending the coast, and the city of Galveston. Many of the gallant soldiers are well shod with raw-hide shoes, which in symmetry and utility are not behind the best shoes used in our southern Confederacy. The beef hide is placed in water and ashes, and remains there until the hair will come off; the hide is then soaked in fresh water, and rubbed until the lye is extracted; it is then soaked in strong salt and water, from forty to ninety hours--this prevents the hide from every becoming hard and horny; it is then dried in the open air, not in the sun, and then beat with a maul or mallet, until it becomes pliable as leather; it is then made into shoes as shoemakers make other shoes; the upper part and soles are all of this prepared raw-hide, and made by sewing or pegging on the soles. The shoes are then well greased with oil, hog lard or tallow; greased all over the outside, both upper and bottom parts; this renders the shoe waterproof, and in every way as valuable as the leather shoes. These shoes are made with the grain or hair side out and in every respect are a cheap and valuable shoe.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, October 23, 1862, p. 1, c. 4
Negro Shoes. Wooden soles for making negro shoes, for sale at thirty cents per pair, for cash.
Alex. C. Ferguson. Oct. 18.
Negro Shoes. Wooden soles for making negro shoes, for sale at thirty cents per pair, for cash.
Alex. C. Ferguson. Oct. 18.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, November 11, 1862, p. 1, c. 1
Clothing for the Natchez Southrons.
We were gratified at having an interview yesterday with Lieut. Hart, of the Natchez Southrons, who represents the command in excellent health since their long and wearisome march to Kentucky and back, though they are sadly in want of clothing, shoes, &c. He is here ready to receive and take charge of all supplies for the Southrons, if left at the store of Messrs. Stanton & Stockman, Main street. The Natchez Southrons have proved themselves of the best fighting material, both at Shiloh and Munforsville, and it behooves us, if possible, to promptly meet their requirements. They are of us, and part of us, and every effort should be made to meet their demands.
Clothing for the Natchez Southrons.
We were gratified at having an interview yesterday with Lieut. Hart, of the Natchez Southrons, who represents the command in excellent health since their long and wearisome march to Kentucky and back, though they are sadly in want of clothing, shoes, &c. He is here ready to receive and take charge of all supplies for the Southrons, if left at the store of Messrs. Stanton & Stockman, Main street. The Natchez Southrons have proved themselves of the best fighting material, both at Shiloh and Munforsville, and it behooves us, if possible, to promptly meet their requirements. They are of us, and part of us, and every effort should be made to meet their demands.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, December 2, 1862, p. 1, c. 2
Wooden Soles for Shoes.
Public attention is directed to the advertisement of Mr. M. Sparling, in to-day's paper. This war, and the infamous blockade of our corrupt enemy, has brought forth many sparks of latent genius from our people. The plans for furnishing shoes to planters, for their servants, have been varied. The wooden sole is now generally used, and Mr. Sparling, at the saw-mill of Andrew Brown, Esq., is prepared to meet large demands. He only needs a smaller steam engine to meet all his requirements. Cannot his want be supplied?
Wooden Soles for Shoes.
Public attention is directed to the advertisement of Mr. M. Sparling, in to-day's paper. This war, and the infamous blockade of our corrupt enemy, has brought forth many sparks of latent genius from our people. The plans for furnishing shoes to planters, for their servants, have been varied. The wooden sole is now generally used, and Mr. Sparling, at the saw-mill of Andrew Brown, Esq., is prepared to meet large demands. He only needs a smaller steam engine to meet all his requirements. Cannot his want be supplied?
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, January 13, 1863, p. 1, c. 1
Protect and Cherish Your Defenders.
From a couple of our most reliable citizens, who have just returned from a visit to Port Hudson, we receive the most encouraging assurances as to the sufficiency of the works there erected, and in progress, for our defence [sic] against the Abolition Vandals of the North.
One other piece of information however we receive from them, most painful for us to hear, and unless we are totally unable to change it, almost disgraceful for this community to permit. Among the gallant band there congregated to meet the Abolition invader, are some troops from our sister State of Arkansas, in a most destitute condition. They are a portion of those, who under the glorious Price, came over to our protection east of the Mississippi, after his and their names had become immortal by their bravery on the west of that stream. Some, not less than twenty-five or thirty, are said to be literally without shoes. Some have neither hats, caps or coats, and many besides being without shoes or socks are wearing pants literally worn into ribbands [sic] at the ankle. We know how much Adams county has done; we know too, the difficulty of doing more. Still, we rejoice to hear of one gentleman who will give fifty dollars towards relieving such distress, for distress it is, though unmurmuringly borne.
Shoes will be the great difficulty, and yet they are the most absolute and pressing need. A barefooted soldier! and he breasting the enemy's onset amid the inclemencies of winter, for the protection of all we hold most dear, from rapine, insult and ruin! Who, deserving the name of man can calmly contemplate the picture? We are sure every one of our noble hearted Southern women, will resolve such a state of things shall not continue one moment longer, if their exertions can effect a change. We have heard of modes by which these pressing wants of our gallant brothers may be relieved, and yet forbear to name them now, both for want of room, and because we wish not to forestall any other or better plan. Will not some of our public spirited citizens move in this matter? Will not the ladies of Natchez and Adams county take it in hand? One of our fellow citizens, Mr. Abbott, of the English Battery, who is here, will with pleasure take charge of, and distribute any such supplies. Still to secure prompt and effective action, concert of action is needed; and surely the appeal, in behalf of our Arkansas brothers, who stand between our dear ones and the fiendish enemy, will not be in vain.
Protect and Cherish Your Defenders.
From a couple of our most reliable citizens, who have just returned from a visit to Port Hudson, we receive the most encouraging assurances as to the sufficiency of the works there erected, and in progress, for our defence [sic] against the Abolition Vandals of the North.
One other piece of information however we receive from them, most painful for us to hear, and unless we are totally unable to change it, almost disgraceful for this community to permit. Among the gallant band there congregated to meet the Abolition invader, are some troops from our sister State of Arkansas, in a most destitute condition. They are a portion of those, who under the glorious Price, came over to our protection east of the Mississippi, after his and their names had become immortal by their bravery on the west of that stream. Some, not less than twenty-five or thirty, are said to be literally without shoes. Some have neither hats, caps or coats, and many besides being without shoes or socks are wearing pants literally worn into ribbands [sic] at the ankle. We know how much Adams county has done; we know too, the difficulty of doing more. Still, we rejoice to hear of one gentleman who will give fifty dollars towards relieving such distress, for distress it is, though unmurmuringly borne.
Shoes will be the great difficulty, and yet they are the most absolute and pressing need. A barefooted soldier! and he breasting the enemy's onset amid the inclemencies of winter, for the protection of all we hold most dear, from rapine, insult and ruin! Who, deserving the name of man can calmly contemplate the picture? We are sure every one of our noble hearted Southern women, will resolve such a state of things shall not continue one moment longer, if their exertions can effect a change. We have heard of modes by which these pressing wants of our gallant brothers may be relieved, and yet forbear to name them now, both for want of room, and because we wish not to forestall any other or better plan. Will not some of our public spirited citizens move in this matter? Will not the ladies of Natchez and Adams county take it in hand? One of our fellow citizens, Mr. Abbott, of the English Battery, who is here, will with pleasure take charge of, and distribute any such supplies. Still to secure prompt and effective action, concert of action is needed; and surely the appeal, in behalf of our Arkansas brothers, who stand between our dear ones and the fiendish enemy, will not be in vain.
NATCHEZ DAILY COURIER, February 12, 1863, p. 1, c. 5
Leather and Shoes. For sale, of my own manufacture, at the store of Fleming & Baldwin. Thos. A. McCowen. feb12
Leather and Shoes. For sale, of my own manufacture, at the store of Fleming & Baldwin. Thos. A. McCowen. feb12
Do y'all think the majority of black-dyed shoes referenced by Mr. Adolphus in the Trans-Mississippi is equally applicable to other theatres of war? Were russet shoes in the AOT reasonably P-E-C? Do they warrant representation among reenactors?
Best,
JSK
P.S. - I apologize if this post rambles. I was originally going to just post snippets of the newspaper, but the whole entries seemed pretty interesting.
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