Authentic shirts

[mike54]

I have been looking for an authentic shirt pattern for a three or four button shirt. I am hoping someone makes one that is a modern pattern and not just a package of instructions. Yes I know that is how patterns were in 1860 but at the price of good reproduction fabric I don't want to do the trial and error method of sewing.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Mike

[Silas]

Re: Authentic shirts

Welcome to the forum, Mr. Carr.

First, all members are required to include their full name in their posts as per forum rules which you can review by clicking the link below my signature.

Second, many different types of shirts were made by the 1860's : square shirt, issue shirt, French cut shirt with collar, without, multi-piece collars, pleated, gathered, cotton, and et cetera. You may not know what you want until you've seen a few shirts. An awesome resource on shirt is the book, Thoughts on Mens Shirts. There are some great shirts in there with diagrams about how to reproduce them. After you've made your first shirt or two, you might be curious about other types.

Third, narrow your question for a shirt pattern by using the search function. You should find many examples and discussions about shirt and shirt patterns. Another place to commence a search is the Sewing Academy Forum : http://www.thesewingacademy.org/

[Jam3853]

Re: Authentic shirts

any more specifics other then a three or four button shirt?.....

you could go with one of the charlie child patterns? If one falls into your said style desires.

[J. Donaldson]

Re: Authentic shirts

I've had luck with Past Patterns' shirt pattern.

[4VADRUMMER]

Re: Authentic shirts

Call Needle & Thread in Gettysburg (717) 334-4011 and order a County Cloth (Charlie Childs) Holiday shirt pattern. It's a standard on the square shirt. All of Charlie's patterns are very well researched and instructions are included with the pattern. I believe the patterns cost $15.00. Personally I think Charlie has the best patterns available on the market today and his instructions are very easy to follow.

[Mutt]

Re: Authentic shirts

Just a suggestion: To avoid messing up using good fabric, I completely understand, try making a "test" shirt out of a cheaper muslin as is and was a practice of tailors, then one out of good fabric. If making it entirely by hand, you can use a running stitch to assemble or a machine with the muslin, hand on the finished garment. I have a shirt made form a Past Pattern's pattern and it turned out nicely. I know Childs' pattern are top-notch though!

On-the-square shirts are simple in regards to their parts - IE squares, rectangles, triangles - the final product isn't truly as "fitted" as the "French fitted" style shirts of the period you may hear and read about. The differences are evident in how they fit to the body closer as opposed to a looser body and lower shoulder seam with an on-the-square shirt. Fitted shirts back then were much like the "modern fit" or "athletic" or simply "fitted" shirts you see today in dress shirts.

Another option is a shirt kit from Wambaugh, White and Co. for $45.

Just throwin' it all out there for ya! :) Please, people correct me if I am wrong about above facts.

Best,

[forrestcav]

Re: Authentic shirts

I suggest Charlie Child's Louisana shirt pattern. It's made in the french pattern. I actually took his pattern and combined it with placket and cuffs off a on the square pattern i had. I took some serious engineering to get the neck openning come out right, but it's my pattern now. I recommend making your first out of the cheapest matterial you can find. A nice cheap muslin would work, or if you have a fabric store near that sells remmants.

[NYCivilWar]

Re: Authentic shirts

a County Cloth (Charlie Childs) Holiday shirt pattern. It's a standard on the square shirt.

Just a word of note on this shirt. It was Confederate issue in MARCH of 1865...so one must ask themself if it is right for whatever you'll be using it for. I'm not slamming the pattern or anything, but it does have a specific date of issue to it.

[forrestcav]

Re: Authentic shirts

the french pattern which would be a civilian pattern I believe was introduced in 1859.

[GreencoatCross]

Re: Authentic shirts

Here is another example of an "on the square" CS shirt that was offered for sale by James D. Julia. It's not documented to a specific soldier but it's noted as being a rebel shirt made from rebel cloth and was picked up at Port Hudson, LA. The tag states that it was found by Joe Pray who is most likely Joseph P. Pray, an 18 year old clerk from Northampton, MA who joined Co. C 57th Massachusetts Infantry in September 1862. Even without a direct tie to a specific Confederate soldier it's still an example of one of the common shirt styles used throughout the country. Note the "ribbed" appearance of the cotton due to varying yarn diameter and poor weaving.

Photos courtesy of James D. Julia, Inc.

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Authentic shirts

Are you guys referring to the Past Patterns pleated front shirt pattern? That's the only men's shirt pattern Saundra Altman offers, and for a beginner, it's no easy task, not to mention it's a pre-war shirt style better suited for 1845-1855. Or are you guys referring to Period Impressions? If so, I wouldn't touch those with a ten foot pole, but that's just my opinion.

[NYCivilWar]

Re: Authentic shirts

for a beginner, it's no easy task, not to mention it's a pre-war shirt style better suited for 1845-1855. Or are you guys referring to Period Impressions? If so, I wouldn't touch those with a ten foot pole, but that's just my opinion.

I'd second both these statements. I rarely see period reproduction shirts (especially civilian shirts) that are true recreations of mid-19th century shirts. There is A LOT of work that goes into a correct reproduction. I've spent as much (or more) time on reproducing a shirt as I have spent on some other "more complicated" garments. I think some folks assume that a shirt is a simple project and that not as much time needs to be devoted to reproducing one. If you do it right, there's a lot of work.

At any rate I guess I'm getting a bit off topic...
-KMS

[Mutt]

Re: Authentic shirts

Agreed on the Past Patterns pleated shirt and its difficulty level. I had A LOT of help from a knowledgable friend and even then, as was also mentioned, the time-frame isn't suited for war-time. Looking forward to making my next, after studying up even more. Great learning experience!

Best,

[poilu1917]

Re: Authentic shirts

While I was looking at the button placement on some original confederate shirts, I noticed an interesting detail on two shirts from different theaters of war (see image). Both shirts have cuff buttons/button holes that are located on opposite sides when looking at the front of the shirt (there is no seperate right and left sleeve cuff). Could this have been due to mass production? Who knows, but it is an interesting detail that some could overlook. It would be something different to add to your impression if you are looking to make a confederate "issue" shirt...

[4VADRUMMER]

Re: Authentic shirts

On the square pattern shirts were very common of the period and because the shirt Charlie used to make the pattern off was issued in March 1865 does not in any way mean it would not be correct to wear that shirt for an 1862 event. I suppose if you are making an absolute carbon copy of the issue shirt Charlie copied then you'd only be good to wear it March 1865 forward. However, who really believes no one was ever issued a shirt like or similar to Charlies on the square pattern prior to that issue date. I mean really? Common sense goes a long way in this hobby! Just saying....

Also reference to the sleeve button placements, I've seen that numerous times on originals and I've recreated it on a few shirts I've made for myself. Dan Wambaugh (I Believe) wrote something about the subject a while ago. And yes it was most likely due to mass production.