Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

[Aubrey]

Hi Gentlemen,

Back to the A.C!
What I'm wondering is in the title, I mean,I'm getting mad because of asking myself what is that wool bonnet wearing by Private Whittier; coming from the Don Troiani's collection. And found in the William C. Davis 's book, Battlefield of the ACW.
I find it lovely and intend to make it. Is it a scottish inspiration or something like that? Is usual or unsual in federal army wearing non regulation stuff...

Whittier used to serve in Rhode island militia and 5 th Maine battery as a servant of artillery

If you have any informations please help me....

Aubrey
here the photo!:

[Kenneth Moran]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Adrien:

While I cannot speak on the exact origin (although I can probably speculate) of this cap nor the construction I can state that similar styles are viewed in other New England and Mid-Atlantic soldiers in period photographs. While I cannot provide a direct link at the moment I believe a majority of those I have seen are with Federal soldiers on the sea islands/coastal areas of NC,SC and GA. I will attempt to locate and provide a link to the photographs I am referring to. Hope this meager information can assist you.

Ken

[Spinster]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

It's a common tam type pattern, one of many variations on traditional Scot-Irish-English lower class drover caps. They can be executed in crochet or knit, though carrying yarns for the star shape is a bit more of a pain when knitting.

I make a striped version of this sort of cap in period dyed yarns. I believe Karin Timour makes the actual star cap in modern dyed yarns. Both of us work in 100% wool, as was correct during the period.

[Aubrey]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Excellent thank you so much both!

Kenneth,what you explain is enough for me...it corresponds to what I read about Whittier's life, he's a New Englander folk...I suppose living on the sea coasts and in contact with fishermen or something like that. We are not sure. But Many fishermen used to wear it, Ok.

Thank you Miss for your technical precision, I ask my wife and If you are interested in, I will show you....I plan to use a 100% wool with organic dye, wil see!

[Spinster]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Ah, you are starting from the beginning here.

For the marled brown, this will need to be manufactured as spun singles, and dyed in that state (always a bit of a challenge as the singles are more apt to telephone and tangle in dye skein.). Then ply the dyed yarns to achieve the marled look.

Not having closely examined the original, the marled yarns may be a three ply, with two shades of brown and one of natural.

If so, one choice on the color would be a cutch brown for one brown, then a madder red on alum, and brought to a higher temperature to 'kill' the red and leave the brown. Ply these two with a natural cream.

For the red star--well, reds are always a challenge. Cochineal red, dyed in the normal matter with alum and tartar, then rinsed throughly before a careful after mordant with copper sulfate. Watch it carefully to keep it from going too maroon.

Another solution to the marled browns is to utilize natural wool colors. The Corridale breed especially lends itself to a wide range of rich colors of wool, just as they grew on the sheep, and is an easy spinn. Louet brand spinning wools are available in France, in a combed wool top, ready to spin.

[Aubrey]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Thank you so much Miss Lawson!!

I'm going to start with a natural wool, trying to find the Corriedale sheep wool...it may exist and I'm sure sheeps are being bred in France!!!
Anyway, the bonnet is made of a kind of marled blue/natural white/grey wool because of the past.....all of it has turned into brown. It's quite normal. Actually it's not a brown one.
For the red star, I'm afraid of not being able to dye it with your precious advices. The red seems to be hard to make it.

One more time I'm going to find a store or a good sutler in France or anywhere making organic dye. But it's not easy, many of them have given up!!

If you have addresses!!!

Thanx again!

Adrien Aubrey

[Spinster]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Shades of blues and grays in the original: The natural and grays can be obtained directly from the sheep. The blue---well, of all the natural dyes, the blues are most colorfast, as both indigo and woad are produced by a chemical reaction, not a simmered in color. A blue that oxidized to brown was likely logwood based, and logwood is frightfully expensive these days. You may choose to reproduce this look with a more colorfast, and less expensive, blue such as indigo.

Find your dyes here:

http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/index.html

Due to difficulties in moving exotic natural dyestuffs across borders, many processors are now making the dyes on location, and reducing them to a powder to be reconstituted. That's the case here. I've not used the particular company, but they are based in the UK and do export to France. These types of natural dyes are more consistent and easier to use for a beginner.


Finding wools in various shades will be easy. Louet is based in the Netherlands and offers fibers as well as spinning equipment. Look here and find dealers near you

http://www.louet.nl/en/home

Good Luck. I look forward to your finished project.

[Aubrey]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Thanx again Miss Lawson, your sutlers are very interesting and I found one in Paris, pretty much known where I met two american women in vacation, was funny! The shop deals with 100% wool from New Zealand's sheeps ! little bit far from US in 1862 but the quality is authentic in sense of being washed with cool water without chemical stuffs! The first bonnet will be made with this wool. I will make another one with organic when I would have understood the principles of natural dyes!

Regards

Adrien Aubrey

[Spinster]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Don't worry about the distance of New Zealand from the US in 1862 :wink_smil. Those are still good common English breeds of sheep, and manufactured yarn was not an uncommon import item from England.

When I'm buying commercial coned yarns for blanket weaving, I prefer New Zealand wools, for their long staple fiber, durability, and ease of dyeing.

[Aubrey]

Re: Whittier's non-regulation knitted wool bonnet

Don't worry about the distance of New Zealand from the US in 1862 :wink_smil. .

:) :)

Keep in touch

Aubrey