Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

[VA-Patriot'61]

Gents,
I'm in the process of constructing a couple of different garments that will require period inspector's stamps. Making the stamp to the correct size and lettering seems to be the easiest part, however my question is what is appropriate to use for the ink to stamp with?

Most inks on original garments appear to be red, blue or black but what is around these days we can use to replicate the original inspector's stamps?

Before people pipe up about the search function I did use it and yielded nothing I could find through numerous searches specifically regarding the ink. For those of you who are in the business of making items for sale then if it is a trade secret I understand if you don't post.

I figured I'd ask before I ruined clothes trying to add small details to it. In regards to garments we're talking about English made items and Schuylkill Aresenal type stamps. I appreciate any information people are willing to share.

Thanks in advance!

[brobby05]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

Fellas,
I'd like to know about the SA stamps too, as well as Rockhill & Wilson, Jacob Reed, etc. I need those for my 72nd PA and 95th PA Zouave jackets.

Thanks,

Larry Kitner, Pres.
72nd PA, Co. K

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

Hallo!

I have never seen (yet) an analysis of the Period inks. My understandiing is that they were India inks. Permanent India Ink is still available at art supply stores and craft shops.

In brief and to over generalize... black was most common, blue, although I have seen SA (Schyulkill Arsenal) stamps in red ink. Plus some are now brownish, (assumed to have once been black).

Arsenal and contract markings vary, as well as vary pre War, early Warm mid War, and late War. For example problems with contractors caused the War Department in July of 1862 to no items be received unless marked and distinguished with firm or individual, size, and the name of the inspector who approved the clothing item. After August 1864 the contractor was required to include the date of his contract. Arsenal coats were NUG marked with arsenal and size (for example SA did dots, then dots and numbers, and then just numbers.)

Some believe the geometric arrangment of dots at SA indicated their four inspectors rather than size (size dots NUG being laid out in a row).

Unlined garments were sized marked in white paint (although I have seen yellow but do not really know if it is discolored white or true yellow..)

Again, being brief....

Curt

SA also went to paper labels late War.

I have a representative sample of early, mid, and late War SA stamps. If there is any interest, I will try to scan them tomorrow and see if I can create a "life size" sample sheet an dpost it.

[brobby05]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

Thanks Curt...I'd be interested in the SA sample. Do you have a sample of Rockhill and Wilson or Jacob Reed?

Thanks again,

Larry Kitner
72nd PA, Co. K

[Hank Trent]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

There are lots of recipes for making indelible ink to put laundry-marks on clothes, in period cookbooks. I have no idea if that kind of ink was also used for stamping inspector's marks on clothes, but it did come in black and red.

For example:

http://books.google.com/books?q=indelible+ink+marking+date%3A0-1865&btnG=Search+Books

This one also gives an indelible ink "for printing on linen with types," which would be like stamping:

http://books.google.com/books?id=sVtHAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA1069

Hank Trent
hanktrent@gmail.com

[GreencoatCross]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

I've seen both paint and ink used to stamp original clothing and equipment (haversacks, canteen straps, shelter halves), with the most common colors being black, red, and blue. The paint used was relatively thick and has an almost "crusty" appearance which I would guess comes from being "layered" onto the fabric surface instead of absorbed, and in all instances the color has hardly faded. Ink is a different matter. In several cases it has run, washed out, or bled profusely outside of the original stamping area (an example would be the SA jacket with almost 1" diameter dots formed by the outward bleeding of the original ink within a 3/8" diameter area). Some of these same inks have faded to a blueish color from black, or brownish from red.

In the past I have used indelible inks made by hand from original recipes but in recent years have used paint, fabric-ink pads, and even 100% natural screen-printing inks. If you want to get even more specific about it an SA jacket might use thin red ink while a Martin blouse might be stamped with black paint.

[VA-Patriot'61]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

Thank you very much Gentlemen for sharing that information! I'll look into the indelible inks and see if I can't play around with a couple of them.

Curt, I'd be very interested to see the SA markings, the only ones I've seen are on reproduction clothing or in sketches.

[FranklinGuardsNYSM]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

Some samples.

1. SA artillery jacket.
2. Enlisted infantry frock.
3. Daniel Byam SA "Signal Corps" jacket.
4. SA infantry trousers.
5. My repro stamp in the sleeve of an SA blouse.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Inspector's Stamps and the proper ink to reproduce them...

Hallo!

Being a Luddite and not very computer techno compeptent... let's aee what this attempt does.

The stamps were taken from original garments, by a graphist artist, and then photo-made into actual rubber stamps (except for the dots were, as is beleived on the originals were just stamps made from dowel rod).
I stamped them on copy paper, so that is why there is some edge bleeding.

If this does not work, or cannot be made to work, I will be happy to s-mail lads a paper copy in the mail.

Here goes..., see what you can do:



I am thinking if one can blow this image up to 8 X 10, the stampings should be the actual, life size.

Curt