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Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

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  • #1

    Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

    I wanted to ask about current sources of accurately-reproduced Federal sky-blue kersey.

    To the best of my knowledge, currently County Cloth is the only US manufacturer of sky-blue kersey. Is this right?

    Recently, I saw that Kochan & Phillips are also offering this cloth. Has anyone examined their version of this cloth and can comment on how it compares to original garments?

    I know that K&P is based in the UK and I am not sure who carries their kersey in the US. I know the Najecki's carry K&P cloth, but they cater to the Rev War crowd and I don't see the sky-blue kersey listed on their website.

    Last, I was curious about the "ultimate" kersey that was being discussed maybe 10 or 15 years ago. What was missing from the cloth being produced at that time that the folks involved in that project were trying to reproduce?

    Thanks!!
    John Wickett
    Former Carpetbagger
    Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

    Kochan and Phillips Kersey is availaible through Needle and Thread.....( a bolt was there as of remembrance day) If it is produced exactly as 19th century Kersey I am not sure....but their website says so.....The stuff I looked at N&T pretty comparable to CC


    County Cloth I suppose has the same review as it did years ago.....

    I am currently using the FHW kersey that was purchased from E.J. Thomas....It's not the old FHW stuff....It is much thinner and has a looser weave....Has a more distictive wale than the previous too.....For the pair of trousers I am making....I am sure they will rip within the first few events......However I have compared this material to some Federal Greatcoats/remenants and it matches up pretty well
    [FONT="Garamond"]Justin A. Meinert[/FONT]

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    • #3
      Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

      John,
      Chris Daley gives the sky blue kersey from K&P a great review in the other thread just updated with regards to the Tait cloth. His review is over 3 years old but I doubt they have changed production any.
      Cheers,
      [COLOR=Red]Kirby Smith[/COLOR]

      Loblolly Mess

      Too many ancestors who served and events on the schedule to post here...

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

        Justin, Thanks for the heads up that E.J. Thomas has the FHW kersey available. I made a pair of contract trousers out of it for myself two year ago and I agree the feel and look of the fabric is a good match to a few original trousers and overcoats I have seen and handled.
        Your Obedient Servant,

        Peter M. Berezuk

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        • #5
          Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

          John, Woolrich makes a 100% wool sky blue kersey too! Benedict von B. has received some samples from K&P, ask him for pics. They do not have any in stock right now. At least not sky blue kersey. It is pricy though.
          Jan H.Berger
          Hornist

          German Mess
          http://germanmess.de/

          www.lederarsenal.com


          "Und setzet ihr nicht das Leben ein, nie wird euch das Leben gewonnen sein."( Friedrich Schiller)

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          • #6
            Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

            John,

            If we meet, I can show you a sample.
            Bene von Bremen

            German Mess

            "I had not previously known one could get on, even in this unsatisfactory fashion, with so little brain."
            Ambrose Bierce "What I Saw of Shiloh"

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            • #7
              Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

              Anyone living in/near Frederick MD, he has a bunch of his fabric in his Antique store downtown on Market St. Open on weekends only.
              Brad Ireland
              Old Line Mess
              4th VA CO. A
              SWB

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                Originally posted by Benedict View Post
                John,

                If we meet, I can show you a sample.
                That would be great! I'm trying to arrange for us to do some shooting on Monday. I'll keep you posted.

                Re: EJ Thomas kersey...
                The descriptions of that kersey matches that of some kersey I got online a year or two ago. I'm currently making some SA trousers with it for Shiloh. It seems pretty thin and weak... an overcoat of the stuff wouldn't provide much warmth. But, it looks great.

                Also, for the folks talking about EJT, are you referring to purchases from a couple years ago? I was under the impression that they were out of business. Thanks!
                John Wickett
                Former Carpetbagger
                Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                  E.J. Thomas....- I ordered my kersey probably the end of summer? As with anything I emailed him first to see if it was in stock and was informed it was....Think the fabric was on my doorstep less than a week later....

                  Fabric thickness- As stated it is pretty lightweight....When it comes time I believe the fabric will rip/break before the linen thread.... “I have a feeling it will be in the crotch”....O well...it was a pair of trousers for under $50.....can't complain...

                  For overcoats....There is not a lot of stress on an overcoat as there is on trousers, which is why I would suggest its use.....interlining this stuff with a burlap/hessian cloth, and lining in fatigue blouse flannel, other flannel, or jean cloth..etc. it will keep you warm.
                  Pieces of an overcoat can be found at Ronn Palms (not paul) meuseum in Gettysburg, It's pretty darn close to this fabric...


                  K&P fabric is a swell choice as well.....I suggested getting it from N&T due to the fact you could get a yard and a half to make one pair of trousers.....K&P's website says minimum of 3 meters per order.....you could make 2+ trousers for that amount of fabric......
                  [FONT="Garamond"]Justin A. Meinert[/FONT]

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                    Yeah, I ran across his shop in Frederick a few weeks ago (I live about 5 minutes from there). I recently emailed them about thier new Tait cloth and got an email from Kochan's partner in England. He sais Kochan has been very busy recently and has been traveling so if you try emailing him and don't hear anything back for a week or so, that is why. I haven't seen their Kersey, but judging from their reputation on their other cloth, I would assume it is as close as one will get to the original they are basing their run on (they actually show the original weavers specifications for the US Army Cloth made in England: http://historicaltextiles.com/PhotoAlbums/Research_documentary/ ).
                    Respectfully,
                    Jon Bocek

                    ~ The Dandy Man Mess / WA / VLH / LR ~

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                      Originally posted by LibertyHallVols View Post
                      Last, I was curious about the "ultimate" kersey that was being discussed maybe 10 or 15 years ago. What was missing from the cloth being produced at that time that the folks involved in that project were trying to reproduce?

                      Thanks!!
                      John,

                      I believe what was being sought years ago was a stouter kersey, showing a higher amount of kemp fiber than modern woolens, and if not actually indigo-dyed then dyed with modern dyes to replicate that indigo color cast.
                      Paul McKee

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                      • #12
                        Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                        Thanks Paul

                        I was just getting to that....the question is does the K&P cloth exactly match that or does it just seek to replicate it as the others do...

                        I believe that is the only question left unanswered in this post
                        [FONT="Garamond"]Justin A. Meinert[/FONT]

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                          I've seen the K&P sky blue kersey in person and it's fantastic stuff. While I did not get a sample of it my first impression was that I would be willing to spend the extra money to use it for personal projects instead of the County Cloth kersey. Compared to that the K&P material did not seem as thick and "blanket-like".

                          The FHW kersey that E.J. Thomas offered is unfinished material.

                          The Woolrich kersey is woven with finer yarns and lighter weight than the above offerings but still compares favorably to several original pairs I've studied. While it's already professionally finished, I found that if you soak and line dry it the yarns thicken up nicely and some stiffness is added.
                          Brian White
                          [URL="http://wwandcompany.com"]Wambaugh, White, & Co.[/URL]
                          [URL="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517"]https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517[/URL]
                          [email]brian@wwandcompany.com[/email]

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                          • #14
                            Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                            Paul,
                            Thanks for refreshing my memory! What is "kemp"? I'm not familiar with that fiber. I assume its from a plant? I'd be curious how its presence/absence affects the quality of the fabric, whether it makes it soft, coarse, or what.

                            Brian,
                            Re: EJT/FHW kersey...
                            Well, I'm glad I washed it before I used it!

                            Bene...
                            Bring that Kersey with you on Monday!!! =)
                            John Wickett
                            Former Carpetbagger
                            Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Re: Federal Sky-Blue Kersey

                              Brian

                              What do you and Dan use?
                              Robert Johnson

                              "Them fellers out thar you ar goin up against, ain't none of the blue-bellied, white-livered Yanks and sassidge-eatin'forrin' hirelin's you have in Virginny that run atthe snap of a cap - they're Western fellers, an' they'll mighty quick give you a bellyful o' fightin."



                              In memory of: William Garry Co.H 5th USCC KIA 10/2/64 Saltville VA.

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