CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

[LibertyHallVols]

In preparation for some "'sesh" officer portrayals this year, I am making a "Charleston frock" and thought it might make good fodder for sharing the process of adding complex braid/trim to a garment. While the subject here is sleeve braid (aka - "Austrian knots"), one could easily use similar techniques for the trefoils on the braid to close the toggles on a Federal officer's overcoat, trim on "Zouave" jackets, etc.

1) Drafting the pattern:
I used plain paper and photographs of some Charleston frocks to design the knots that I wanted to use. I used clear rulers, a square, and a set of French curves to draft the pattern.


2) Transferring to the workpiece:
I used a tracing wheel to perforate the pattern. The pattern is placed over the workpiece and chalk is applied. As a result, you have chalk markings on the sleeve piece.

3) Chalk doesn't last! I used basting stitches to permanently mark the pattern.


4) Pin and stitch...
...and stitch and stitch and stitch


Stitching on the back of the piece...

[Bill Fean]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Thanks for sharing this. Back when I made uniforms " for fun " it took me about one hour to sew each braid. They do turn out nice though.


Bill Fean

[Doughboy]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Nicely done and thanks for sharing your process!

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

@ Bill...
Wow! That's quick!

The pics you see above represent a good 10 hours of work. This is the first time I've attempted the "Austrian knots" on a coat, so I'm not exactly quick. I finished the first sleeve last night and am sure the second sleeve's braid will go on much more quickly. Getting the over/under "basket weave" effect at the intersections feels like you're a civil engineer planning an interchange on a major interstate.

[roundshot]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Thanks for sharing. Very nice. I found the instructions you did for sewing Richmond Depot trousers (on the Stonewall Brigade website) very helpful as well.

[Cumpston1862]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Very cool. Yes thanks for sharing! And the time dedication is comendable too.

If you hear anything while reading this its me throwing the pictures of my poke sacks that I made last week back in my desk drawer! ;)

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Here's the finished sleeves.

[Shockoe Hill Cats]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Good jorb, Wick!

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Thanks for sharing this!

[rebjeb04]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

What kind of broadcloth is your frock being made from? The sleeve braid looks excellent!! Is it gilt braid from wooded hamlet? You must post picks of the finished product. Thanks for posting.

[LtCol0802]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Very nice work! Well done. Having sewn quatrefoils on many many caps I know how tedious this is. What type of braid did you use? I have a small amount of englich woven braid left but quickly running out.
S/F
LtCol John Owens USMC (ret)

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

I used 1/8" metallic braid from Needle & Thread (aka - Wooded Hamlet). I purchased about 12 yards and have a few feet left over which will probably be used as collar insignia and/or kepi bling.

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Wick, I need to thank you for this. With the exception of using the tracing wheel I followed your instructions and have completed my first set of Austrian knots with minimal problems. You saved me from getting a migraine!

If anyone else is considering a project like this I would HIGHLY recommend following Mr. Wickett's instructions.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

Tyler,

If you don't have pictures, then it didn't happen. Share, brother!

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

I know its a little rough for my first time, but I guess since the original wasn't perfect either I suppose that makes it alright.