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CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

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  • CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

    In preparation for some "'sesh" officer portrayals this year, I am making a "Charleston frock" and thought it might make good fodder for sharing the process of adding complex braid/trim to a garment. While the subject here is sleeve braid (aka - "Austrian knots"), one could easily use similar techniques for the trefoils on the braid to close the toggles on a Federal officer's overcoat, trim on "Zouave" jackets, etc.

    1) Drafting the pattern:
    I used plain paper and photographs of some Charleston frocks to design the knots that I wanted to use. I used clear rulers, a square, and a set of French curves to draft the pattern.
    Click image for larger version

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    2) Transferring to the workpiece:
    I used a tracing wheel to perforate the pattern. The pattern is placed over the workpiece and chalk is applied. As a result, you have chalk markings on the sleeve piece.

    3) Chalk doesn't last! I used basting stitches to permanently mark the pattern.


    4) Pin and stitch...
    ...and stitch and stitch and stitch


    Stitching on the back of the piece...
    John Wickett
    Former Carpetbagger
    Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

  • #2
    Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

    Thanks for sharing this. Back when I made uniforms " for fun " it took me about one hour to sew each braid. They do turn out nice though.


    Bill Fean

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    • #3
      Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

      Nicely done and thanks for sharing your process!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

        @ Bill...
        Wow! That's quick!

        The pics you see above represent a good 10 hours of work. This is the first time I've attempted the "Austrian knots" on a coat, so I'm not exactly quick. I finished the first sleeve last night and am sure the second sleeve's braid will go on much more quickly. Getting the over/under "basket weave" effect at the intersections feels like you're a civil engineer planning an interchange on a major interstate.
        John Wickett
        Former Carpetbagger
        Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

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        • #5
          Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

          Thanks for sharing. Very nice. I found the instructions you did for sewing Richmond Depot trousers (on the Stonewall Brigade website) very helpful as well.
          Bob Williams
          26th North Carolina Troops
          Blogsite: http://26nc.org/blog/

          As [one of our cavalry] passed by, the general halted him and inquired "what part of the army he belonged to." "I don't belong to the army, I belong to the cavalry." "That's a fact," says [the general], "you can pass on." Silas Grisamore, 18th Louisiana

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          • #6
            Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

            Very cool. Yes thanks for sharing! And the time dedication is comendable too.

            If you hear anything while reading this its me throwing the pictures of my poke sacks that I made last week back in my desk drawer! ;)
            Louis Zenti

            Pvt. Albert R. Cumpston (Company B, 12th Illinois Vol. Inf.-W.I.A. February 15, 1862)
            Pvt. William H. Cumpston (Company B, 12th Illinois Vol. Inf.-K.I.A. February 15, 1862 Ft. Donelson)
            Pvt. Simon Sams (Co. C, 18th Iowa Inf.-K.I.A. January 8, 1863 Springfield, MO)
            Pvt. Elisha Cox (Co. C, 26th North Carolina Inf.-W.I.A. July 3, 1863 Gettysburg)

            "...in the hottest of the fight, some of the rebs yelled out...them must be Iowa boys". Charles O. Musser 29th Iowa Infantry

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            • #7
              Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

              Here's the finished sleeves.
              Click image for larger version

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              John Wickett
              Former Carpetbagger
              Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

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              • #8
                Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                Good jorb, Wick!
                Jason C. Spellman
                Skillygalee Mess

                "Those fine fellows in Virginia are pouring out their heart's blood like water. Virginia will be heroic dust--the army of glorious youth that has been buried there."--Mary Chesnut

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                • #9
                  Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                  Thanks for sharing this!
                  Tyler Underwood
                  Moderator
                  Pawleys Island #409 AFM
                  Governor Guards, WIG

                  Click here for the AC rules.

                  The search function located in the upper right corner of the screen is your friend.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                    What kind of broadcloth is your frock being made from? The sleeve braid looks excellent!! Is it gilt braid from wooded hamlet? You must post picks of the finished product. Thanks for posting.
                    Christopher E. McBroom, Capt.
                    16th Ark. Infantry - 1st Arkansas Battalion, C.S.A.

                    Little Rock Castle No. 1
                    Order of Knights of the Golden Circle

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                    • #11
                      Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                      Very nice work! Well done. Having sewn quatrefoils on many many caps I know how tedious this is. What type of braid did you use? I have a small amount of englich woven braid left but quickly running out.
                      S/F
                      LtCol John Owens USMC (ret)
                      John Owens

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                      • #12
                        Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                        I used 1/8" metallic braid from Needle & Thread (aka - Wooded Hamlet). I purchased about 12 yards and have a few feet left over which will probably be used as collar insignia and/or kepi bling.
                        John Wickett
                        Former Carpetbagger
                        Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

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                        • #13
                          Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                          Wick, I need to thank you for this. With the exception of using the tracing wheel I followed your instructions and have completed my first set of Austrian knots with minimal problems. You saved me from getting a migraine!

                          If anyone else is considering a project like this I would HIGHLY recommend following Mr. Wickett's instructions.
                          Tyler Underwood
                          Moderator
                          Pawleys Island #409 AFM
                          Governor Guards, WIG

                          Click here for the AC rules.

                          The search function located in the upper right corner of the screen is your friend.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                            Tyler,

                            If you don't have pictures, then it didn't happen. Share, brother!
                            John Wickett
                            Former Carpetbagger
                            Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

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                            • #15
                              Re: CS Bling - Adding Sleeve Braid

                              I know its a little rough for my first time, but I guess since the original wasn't perfect either I suppose that makes it alright.
                              Click image for larger version

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                              Tyler Underwood
                              Moderator
                              Pawleys Island #409 AFM
                              Governor Guards, WIG

                              Click here for the AC rules.

                              The search function located in the upper right corner of the screen is your friend.

                              Comment

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