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Contract Variation Shirt Details & Round Up

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  • Contract Variation Shirt Details & Round Up

    Good afternoon,

    This is my first posting here on the AC, glad to be on board.

    I've been trying to gain some insight on Contract Variant shirts recently. It seems that there are several reproductions available, however there is little in the way of documentation of originals save for the well-known West Point shirt and sketches of the David Gilbert Myers shirt. I know of several in private collections as well.

    As an amateur in the way of making items for myself, I've been learning some period tailoring over the past couple of years. I'm looking at making myself and my pards some shirts, however, I won't cut into any flannel until I do more research and hopefully compile some better insight.

    Having never handled, nor seen in person a contract variant shirt, I'm looking at trying to gain some basic knowledge on construction. Principally, I'm wondering if anyone knows about the construction of the pocket bag on these shirts. It seems to me that a "pocket half" is constructed of sheeting or drill and simply pinned on and stitched in. Is this the case, or is it indeed a full pocket inside. Again, I know this is very general considering the West Point, Gilbert Myers, and several other shirts in existence.

    Additionally, seam treatment is a major hold up for me. I've examined a couple of high-end replicas, and I'm getting the idea that the contract shirts they've copied do not indeed feature flat-felled seams, but rather small allowances, pressed to one side, and top stitched down by machine. Would these be a correct assumption (to some of the more knowledgeable folks out there)?

    Thanks for your consideration--and if anyone has any where they could point me on researching some contract shirts, or viewing some known originals (photos online, etc.) I would be highly grateful.

    Best Regards,

    Tom Frost
    Tar Bucket Mess
    147th NYSV
    Thomas Frost
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