Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

[Dave Hull]

Wondering if anyone has a good source for waistcoat/vest patterns for both CS and US wear. Any wartime pattern is fine as my wife has offered to make me anything I need. We do the entire war so if it is not right for 61, I wait until 64. I currently have a military style Federal vest and a High shawl collar vest, but neither seem to accurately represent what I see in pictures.

I really need an excellent wool holster for my key wind pocket watch she got me for my birthday (about the only reason I wear a vest.) These would run the gamut from field use only to doubling for office wear (I like to work in the odd 19th Century clothing item just to keep the folks at NASA guessing.)

[WpnsMan]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Dave,

There are two patterns that have good documentation and decent instructions that I have seen recommended in the past. Both are single breasted shawl collared. The Past Patterns #018 and the Folkwear, Victorian Vest pattern #222.

I have used the later with a couple minor changes to the pattern that were recommended being; you will need to disregard the upper right pocket, and the pockets should slant downward toward the center, not upward. This is an earlier style circa 1850's as the collar is lower but, it is still an appropriate style that can get you through the war.

There are a lot of pieces to this style of vest. It was probably the most challenging thing I have made to date, more so than a uniform jacket. Though I have not attempted a frock coat yet.

I also see that Past Patterns is offering a double breasted version (#019) of their vest.

[Dave Hull]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Thanks Bryan, I will take a look at those patterns. If they have real have standard pattern instructions, Lori should have no problems. She actually has more trouble with the kit instructions than pattern instructions.

[rmilstead]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Dave,
Charlie Childs at County Cloth has an excellent military vest pattern that he offers. Charlie's patterns are all based upon original examples which he has extensively researched. While some comment that his directions are sparse, if your wife has some experience and if she follows his instructions as written the results will be fine. I have made five vests using his pattern and it produces great and very authentic results.

Dick Milstead

[Dave Hull]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Thanks Dick. My wife was kind of thrown for a loop when she saw the kit instructions for my SA sack coat. She managed to figure out what Dan White was talking about, with a few well placed emails mid stream. By the time she tackled my SA trousers from them, she thought she was set until she tried the decipher the pocket instructions. After that, no worries.

After sitting back and admiring her work I have made two observations;1-After watching your wife make 12 or 13 dresses from the 1850/60's which are a perfect match to the originals, do not tell her "All the guys I spoke with said that kit is really easy". 2-Never volunteer to have your wife slap that newly created bonnet on your head so she can see what it looks like.

[Yellowhammer Rebel]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Galla Rock has two vest patterns one a civilian shawl collar and another a military pattern.

[WpnsMan]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Dave,

The Victorian Vest pattern from Folkwear has good instructions and the pattern has a couple of options for different vest in the packet.

[Dave Hull]

Re: Looking for accurate waistcoat/Vest patterns for both US & CS

Thanks for the assistance fellas. My dear wife spent some time yesterday as well hunting and pecking through a multitude of vendors and I now have about 80 different vest and waistcoat patterns to choose from. She was able to come across a vendor selling waistcoat patterns of British origin, both Pre and Post Crimea which look interesting.

After selecting two or three patterns which will work for my impression, the real head work begins, self, polished cotton or silk back, wide or thinner lapels for the shawl collar, patterned or plain front material, contrast color on the lapels or self, high shawl or low, the possibilities seem endless.

Me and my big mouth, wanting a nice new vest to sport...