Help Decoding the Godey's 1857 Shirt Pattern

[The Chesterfield Rifleman]

Hello,

The pattern in question: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/glb4-57dip.jpeg

I've come across this scan several times in search of an authentic pattern, and I'm having a hard time visualizing how these pieces go together.

The body has a cut out armscye, and it appears to be in two pieces. The sleeve is shaped too, and may also be two pieces.

However, the shaped armscye would negate the need for an underarm gusset, so I don't know what the triangle represents. The yoke appears to also be in two pieces, and borders both the neck and the shoulder. There also appears to be a half lining piece, spanning the length and breadth of the bosom, and a neck binding piece, which I'm unsure as to where it would go, other than the obvious answer: the neck. Could this possibly be the collar?

The cuff is also odd, with two button holes and a button under one of them. There is no mention of a placket piece nor a shaped or slashed neck opening.

If anyone knows anything more about this pattern I would appreciate your insight. I believe this is a plain shirt, of the French Pattern style, but could this possibly be a dress shirt? This pattern seems to be missing a few things.

Thank You

[Raymond]

Re: Help Decoding the Godey's 1857 Shirt Pattern

James, I have located the description in the magazine where the diagram is taken from: https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?...ew=1up;seq=399

I hope this helps. Thanks for sharing the diagram, it made me discover a new historical source!

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Help Decoding the Godey's 1857 Shirt Pattern

I'll try to help. Give me a bit. :-)

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Help Decoding the Godey's 1857 Shirt Pattern



I've pulled the various pieces out and put them in their approximate positions on the shirt.

The blue lines are where I would recommend cutting on the fold. :-) These include Center Front at the bosom and the Center Back. I would do the yoke and the sleeves too, though there is plenty of originals that have seams.

Sleeve Binders- are sometimes called "linings." Once the yoke and shoulder seams are sewn, and the sleeves installed, place the front and back Sleeve Binder pieces in place with the "armhole" as indicated. Then turn under and fell, using the sleeve binder pieces to cover the sleeve seam raw edges. Turn under the other sides of the binders and fell neatly. This reinforces the area where your suspenders rub your shirt causing wear.

The Gusset given goes at the body side near the hip at the top of the flap. It reinforces the side seams so they don't rip front from back when you pull your shirt out of your trousers.

The two buttonholes per cuff is setting up for "sleeve buttons", a particular kind of "cuff links" held over from 18th century practice. Honestly, I'd use the button where it's placed and the buttonhole placement opposite, leaving out the buttonhole on the same side as the button.

The "placket" will be included with the bosom. You'll want a facing to both Center Front sides of the bosom piece, and likely a reinforcement piece along the bottom of the bosom. You may need to do some stroke gathers to bring the bosom opening in the body down to the bosom piece bottom.

The Neck Binding is setting up what we would call a "band collar", meant to take a detachable collar on top.

Were I making this shirt, I would be likely to cut the top of the sleeve on the fold and taper the other side. The instructions don't really say, so you may have two pieces per sleeve if you'd like. They call for a "sleeve gusset" that they don't give a piece for. This would be a small triangle placed at the wrist opening. Like the side gussets, it's to arrest the sleeve seam ripping when sleeves are buttoned, rolled, and otherwise used less than gently.

Hopefully helpful. :-)

[The Chesterfield Rifleman]

Re: Help Decoding the Godey's 1857 Shirt Pattern

Well it's certainly more complicated than the square cut patterns I'm used to, but I'll give it a shot. Thank you for the help.