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Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

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  • #1

    Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

    When making a federal issue shirt, I included a line of backstitching right above the collar seam, since this was clearly indicated on the two excellent line drawings accompanying the original shirt descriptions that have been published ("The Union 'Army Standard Size and Make' Shirt", Journal of the Company of Miltary Historians , Vol. XLVII, No. 3, Fall 1995 by Dean Nelson and "Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America, 1750-1900, Thomas Publications, 1999 by William L. Brown III).

    After examining several reproduction shirts now on the market (from reputable vendor(s)), I found that none of them had this line of stitching. Why? Is it lacking in some originals?

    Katie Guslick
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

    Originally posted by Millie Fillmore
    When making a federal issue shirt, I included a line of backstitching right above the collar seam, since this was clearly indicated on the two excellent line drawings accompanying the original shirt descriptions that have been published ("The Union 'Army Standard Size and Make' Shirt", Journal of the Company of Miltary Historians , Vol. XLVII, No. 3, Fall 1995 by Dean Nelson and "Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America, 1750-1900, Thomas Publications, 1999 by William L. Brown III).

    After examining several reproduction shirts now on the market (from reputable vendor(s)), I found that none of them had this line of stitching. Why? Is it lacking in some originals?

    Katie Guslick

    This may be true, I haven't seen many repros of the M1851 shirt lately so I can't comment on that.

    I can tell though that the County Cloth/Charlie Childs pattern of the Saroni Contract shirt in the Troiani collection does call for this re-inforcing stitch above the collar line.
    Also consult:

    Rather Coarse and Scratchy: U.S. Army Shirts of the 1860's.
    Steven J. Adophson and Larry Strayer - The Company Wag November 1994, No. 8., pp 1-7.

    &

    Authentic Campaigner
    http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5576
    Ryan B.Weddle

    7th New York State Militia

    "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" - Henry David Thoreau

    "The willingness with which our young people are likely to serve in any war, no matter how justified, shall be directly proportional as to how they perceive the Veterans of earlier wars were treated and appreciated by their country."
    – George Washington , 1789

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    • #3
      Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

      Ryan,

      Is the County Cloth/Charlie Childs pattern sized? I'm just curious. The guy I made one for specifically told me NOT to change the specs. Thus, it fits horribly (or, dare I say, wonderfully?)!

      Katie Guslick

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

        Originally posted by Millie Fillmore
        Ryan,

        Is the County Cloth/Charlie Childs pattern sized? I'm just curious. The guy I made one for specifically told me NOT to change the specs. Thus, it fits horribly (or, dare I say, wonderfully?)!

        Katie Guslick

        Right, as stated in the references noted in this thread, these shirts were "one size fits all" (or basically 36"-44" chests).
        Ryan B.Weddle

        7th New York State Militia

        "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" - Henry David Thoreau

        "The willingness with which our young people are likely to serve in any war, no matter how justified, shall be directly proportional as to how they perceive the Veterans of earlier wars were treated and appreciated by their country."
        – George Washington , 1789

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

          Yes, all of the literature has been pretty clear about the one-size-fits-all nature of the shirt. That's why I said it fits "wonderfully" (because it's supposed to fit that way)!

          Katie Guslick

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

            Katie,

            In addition to the oft-copied Saroni contract shirt, upon which the County Cloth pattern is based, there are two issue shirts in the Smithsonian. This was the source of an interesting conversation/argument between two good vendors some years ago as both thought they were copying "THE" Smithsonian shirt when, in fact, there were two.

            As I recall, the chief difference between the two was one had a seperate cuff piece and the other, like the Saroni contract shirt, did not.

            I can't comment on what this is that vendor is doing but I am making this post to mention that there are some differences in extant Fed issue shirts.
            John Stillwagon

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            • #7
              Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

              Katie,

              I, at one time, wondered the same exact thing. Then, while doing some research on underhsirts, I called and spoke to William Brown, author of "Thoughts on Men's Shirts". We spoke ever so briefly about the neck stitching, as my real interest was in "undershirts", but he did speak of samples with and without the stitching, but gave no specific examples. If you would like, Mr. Brown can be reached at the Harpers Ferry Center, and is very open to any discussions about shirts, or any other topic related to his work.

              Your new post made me take a look at what samples I had in books, and went directly to page 126 EOG. The pictures show one of the Smithsonian Shirts, and one from the Troiani Collection. Unfortunately the collar is folded down on the Troiani Shirt. It does appear (but pictures are deceiving) in the image that the Smithsonian Shirt does not have that extra stitching.

              In making several of these shirts, I have discovered the merit of this extra top stitch when it comes to hand sewing. Since domet likes to pull apart so easily, this extra stitch does add that extra bit of strength to keep everything together.
              Todd Morris

              Proprietor, Morris & Company Historical Clothiers

              http://morrisclothiers.com

              Canton Lodge #60 F&AM Canton, Ohio


              In Memorium: Pvt. Simon Morris, Co. G, 78th OVI Died: April 14, 1863 Jefferson Barracks, Missouri
              Joseph Rezin Thompson, 1st W.Va. Light Artillery
              Azville W. Lindsey, Co. G, 12th W.Va. Volunteer Infantry

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

                Thank you, John and Todd, for your excellent contributions to my question. I also agree about the stabilizing quality of that stitching -- it's time-consuming, but really adds a nice finish and more stability to that awful fabric.

                Katie Guslick

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: Stitching on Federal Issue Shirt Collars

                  Some men's shirts made of homespun linen are also mentioned in the book "Rural Pennsylvania Clothing" by Ellen J. Gehret (Liberty Cap Books, York, PA, 1976).

                  Granted, these shirts predate the war by a few decades, but they are still of the same type as the issue shirt. The author has included some nice detailed photos of the cuff stitching and collar stitching. Several of the shirts have the collar stitching, which is placed 1/2" above the collar seam. All of the lines are backstitched, with the very neat and tiny stitches that you generally see on the originals.

                  Katie Guslick

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