Godey's scans

[markj]

Per request of a fellow forum member, I am posting a number of scans from various issues of "Godey's" magazine. Some of these I have posted elsewhere but also including them here as part of the "package."

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[markj]

Re: Godey's scans

Here are some more.

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[markj]

Re: Godey's scans

Even more posts. More on the way as soon as I can get them scanned.

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[Canton Zouave]

Re: Godey's scans

Mark,

Is there any reference to the Men's Waiste Coat or the Men's Flannel Shirt as an "UNDERSHIRT".

I just sent another email to one of our fellow forum members and mentioned about seeing if you might post these. What a coincidence.


More to come I am sure.

Reguards,

[markj]

Re: Godey's scans

Hi Todd,

Alas, no indication the flannel waistcoats or shirts were considered anything other than "waistcoats and shirts." However the 1870 "knit shirt" pattern may provide a reasonably good clue regarding one style of undershirt.

As I may have mentioned to you, I did uncover a rather vague "Sanitary Commission" pattern in an 1862 newspaper for an "undershirt." It doesn't provide a lot of details but I was left with the impression that the shirt had a "banded" and placketed collar. The sleeves were undoubtedly tight-fitting to allow regular shirts to be slipped over them. I don't believe there was any specific mention of fabric to be used although, for some reason, "muslin" sticks in my mind.

"Summer undershirts" were undoubtedly made of lightweight fabrics such as muslin, linen, or even silk--an 1856 advertisement I found in a Lebanon, Indiana newspaper (for the "Mammoth Clothing House" of Indianapolis) stated that drawers and undershirts could be furnished in a wide variety of fabrics and styles. Prices varied but some were clearly "high-end": I believe the "merino" and "silk" items sold for the modern equivalent of $100 or more!


Will keep you posted,

Mark Jaeger

[tmdreb]

Re: Godey's scans

Incredible stuff! Thank you so much for posting those scans. Personally, I find the new pattern shirt and waistcoat fascinating. It does seem that wearing both at once would cause easy exposure of one's underarms, though. Is that the only part of the pattern the magazine showed? It would seem that if that were so, the reader was expected to have enough sewing expertise to be able to replicate a garment from sight.

[55th VVI]

Re: Godey's scans

Would anyone know of where to obtain a pattern for the flannel waistcoat, or know of a person willing to make it?

[GreencoatCross]

Re: Godey's scans

Would anyone know of where to obtain a pattern for the flannel waistcoat, or know of a person willing to make it?

Terrence,

Simplicity actually produces the strange flannel waistcoat pattern and you can get that at nearly any major sewing store like JoAnne Fabrics or Hancock's. I have this pattern among many others from Simplicity's new historic clothing collection and it's easy to make and it's cut correctly for the period. The only thing that you must do is weed out the modern sewing directions and just sew it simply. If you've done any shirt sewing in the past that would help you out a great deal.

In regards to this style of shirt being used as an undershirt there are a few undergarments on display at Pamplin Park. All three garments are unique; one is a machine-knit cotton undershirt, another appears to be a matching pair of machine-knit cotton drawers, and the final garment is the oddly bibbed "flannel waistcoat" except it's made from light-weight muslin and machine sewn. The garments are owned by Don Troiani but they were the war-time property of Capt. Charles Gould, who was a Medal of Honor recipient. The two knit garments were very impressive in that they were machine-sewn, appeared to be cotton, and were lined with what looked like white silk. The bibbed shirt was light-weight enough to be an undershirt but not a regular shirt or overshirt since you could see through the cloth in some places. This shirt had the odd bib but I believe that the buttons on it ended half-way down.

I will try to get photos of the bibbed shirt from Don if he happens to have any in his files.

Brian White

[markj]

Re: Godey's scans

Incredible stuff! Thank you so much for posting those scans. Personally, I find the new pattern shirt and waistcoat fascinating. It does seem that wearing both at once would cause easy exposure of one's underarms, though. Is that the only part of the pattern the magazine showed? It would seem that if that were so, the reader was expected to have enough sewing expertise to be able to replicate a garment from sight.

Hi Phil,

Yes, it's pretty much "what you see is what you get" although some of the above patterns were originally in color (I pulled my versions off of microfilm). However, here at Purdue we do have original issues of "Godey's" covering 1861-1862 and, if I can check out the volume, will try to scan those as well.
In the meantime, you can always cruise Ebay and look for color scans in the listings selling original Godey's, Peterson's, and Arthur's magazines.

More on the way,

Mark Jaeger

[55th VVI]

Re: Godey's scans

Now, here is an interesting question. Is that shirt meant to be an undershirt or a work shirt, or overshirt? I remember reading some where (the reference escapes me now) of a style of work shirt with open armpits. It was designed to protect your regular garments, but give you a good range of motion. Anyone have any clue what I am talking about, or am I mistaken? Any help would be appreciated.

[markj]

Re: Godey's scans

Given the rather fancy, even "Russian" appearance of the shirts, I would suspect they were something akin to gentlemen's "lounging shirts." Appropriate for informal settings (e.g., at home) but not for wear in "polite society."

These would go well with the lounging or "smoking" caps, and men's robes, illustrated elsewhere in the pages of "Godey's."

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[Canton Zouave]

Re: Godey's scans

Mark, and the rest of yuns, :D

I did some more research, like a good historian, and have answered my own question about “undershirts”.

By looking up under some assorted sources and asking some clothing historians, this is what I have found.

Here are some period names for “Undershirts” or “Bottomshirts”

• Flannel Waistcoats
• Flannel Vest
• In French “Gilet de Flanelle”
• In French “ Camisole en Flanelle”

So it seems that these Godey’s images “are” the elusive undershirts. ( A small sampling of them, atleast)

I also received an email from Martha McCain. She is the historian that did the historical research for the patterns that Brian White mentioned. In here email she did give some more sources for collections of period under garments. The closest source is the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Costume Institute in New York City.
So the search continues.

Ms. McCain states that her research has shown some common traits in undergarments:
• An open underarm.
• The body is cut sideways on the fabric, w/o underarm seam for comfort
• The front closing is offset to the side.

She further notes that none of these items are constants, and referenced the “Gettysburg” under shirt, and also the undershirt from the “Historical Exhumation Project”, which images I had sent her.

She utilized the original Godey’s samples that you provided for her work and conversion to modern patterning.


Just a few more cents worth of info.

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

Re: Godey's scans

Anyone have the scans for Godey's Crochet Suspenders available?

Thanks,

Paul B.

[Michael Semann]

Re: Godey's scans

Actually, does anyone know where we can source ALL of the Godey's men's patterns originally posted in this long dead thread?

[Spinster]

Re: Godey's scans

Barring anyone coming up with the original scans, start here


Vicki Betts extensive index of Godey's provides a clue as to which issues will hold what.

http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/godey_intro.htm

Then 'Accessible Archives' will give you quality access for a reasonable subscription