Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

[tarwater_mess]

After reading through some material earlier this brings me to some aged old questions of my own.

I am just wondering for the moment if the guidelines called for Atlanta Jackets for example, do we assume they all look the same just because they came from said depot? As reenactors, we use one or two patterns based on a museum example known to come from a particular depot or area, thus giving it that name.

Given one event of your units choosing and/or wishing to portray a selected company or regiment certian guidleines have to be met first to attend. Alright, here is the scenerio that we all know of right? Hosting a event, we embark upon the task of setting up guidelines, doing research for our firper,etc. While doing so, we set our uniform guidleines to say for example, only Columbus Jackets and Trousers are acceptable based on research into this particular company and what was issued around said event. Can we expect then to see 50-75 men in Columbus Depot jackets? yes, if were to hold true the the set guidelines. And would these jackets all look the same in color, cut, trim, etc? I do not know, an this is where my questions begins.

1.) If so many local societies were spinning and weaving, cutting and making up uniforms, what were the end results for uniformity throughout one regiment?

Natchez Daily Courier, November 13, 1861, p. 1, c. 1
Patriotic. The ladies of Louisville Winston county, Miss., have spun, wove and made up full suits for the "Winston Guards," now in Virginia.


Washington [Ark.] Telegraph, September 3, 1862
...Every family throughout this Department, possessed of a spinning wheel and a loom, is requested to manufacture as large a quantity of cloth (both woolen and cotton) as the raw material at its command will permit. Those who have no facilities for spinning or weaving, may assist in the good work, by making up shirts, drawers, pantaloons, coats and overcoats, and by knitting stockings, and making hats or caps and shoes, while those who have looms adapted to the purpose, can furnish blankets, or some other article answering the same object.
--Jno. D. Adams, Capt. and Acting Chief Quartermaster, Trans-Mississippi District.

Mobile Register and Advertiser, July 31, 1864, p. 2, c. 4
The Rankin girls.—Many of our most wealthy, intelligent and lovely young ladies have gone into the manufacturing business, and some of them we are told, have made it quite profitable. Hat, cap and bonnet factories have spring up in every direction, and almost every man you meet wears an elegant new hat presented to him by one of those home made manufacturing establishments. Our girls have become really industrious; they make beautiful cloth out of the raw material, and then make it up into clothing for the soldiers; they make beautiful hats for their fathers, brothers, sweethearts and themselves; they make beautiful palmetto fans; some of them make their own shoes, and make them very neat and durable and when the war is over they will all make the very best of wives.—[Brandon Republican.

More than one hundred and twenty-five uniforms were made, and many other things of which the writer is not posted.

But last spring it was ascertained that the stock of fabrics of which garments had heretofore been made, was exhausted. Flannels, shirtings and goods suitable for coats and pants could no longer be obtained. This was a serious dilemma, and men perhaps under similar circumstances would have given up in despair; but not so our fair friends. They met the emergency boldly; such fabrics as they needed could not be bought, but *they could be made.* A spinning and weaving society was immediately organized.

Osnaburgs and jeans was [sic] soon manufactured and made up, and many of our thinly clad soldiers will soon be made to rejoice on account of the handiwork of these fair ones.

3.) Was it that cloth was manufactured at home and sent to a manufacturing depot to be cut into coats and trousers?

Washington [Ark.] Telegraph, June 15, 1864

WANTED TO HIRE,
1,000 NEGRO WOMEN

At the manufacturing quartermaster's department, Gilmer, Upshur county, Texas. I want 1,000 Negro Women to spin and weave Cloth for the army. Twenty Dollars per month and rations will be paid.
D. Thomas, Major
& manufacturing Q.M.D.A.

Galveston Weekly News, October 29, 1862, p. 2, c. 1
Soldier's Clothing.-- . . . We would, however, remark that all the spinning wheels and hand looms in the country should be kept constantly employed to supply any deficiency of clothing for our soldiers. We believe there are several thousands of these in our State, and tens of thousands in the South, and though each hand loom could produce but a few yards, all of them would produce enough in a few weeks to clothe our whole army.--There are thousands of white, as well as of negro women who know how to spin and weave, and the raw material, both wool and cotton, is abundant. Perhaps the work could be expedited by the organization of societies in all our counties, for the manufacture of soldiers' clothing.

The Southern Banner [Athens, Ga.], February 10, 1864, p. 3, c. 3

Clothing for the Army.

I am now prepared to exchange cotton yarns and shirting for jeans, blankets and wool.
J. Livingston, Major and Qm.

I have heard so many times that a Confederate army did not look like a hodge-podge mix of rags ( a lot of cases they did not), that they actually looked very uniform. I would like to use the word "uniform" losely if I can.
Sometimes, I am compelled to think we, as Reenactors/Living Historians, will go out of our ways to show others the Confederate Army was indeed, well clothed and uniform in looks, in a attempt to create a better image to the public, possibly even in defense to todays stereotypical public views of the Confederacy.

[1stMaine]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Comrade Mason,
It was not an uncommon sight to see a regiment clothed in identical pattern garments, although the shade of the color might vary somewhat. Val Giles, in his memoir "Rags and Hope" talks about his first isue of clothing, and there is a picture of him taken in it on the book's cover. He relates that all the grey fabric was bought up and given to a local tailor to use for their uniforms. They each received a frock coat and a pair of trousers. the coats were uniform in pattern and trim (black trimmed), but the shade of grey varied. he remarks that there were about 4 shades of grey in that issue.
My own personal belief is that the variagated clothing we often see does not truly represent the issues of clothing to the army. The regiment would, it seems to me, be given items of like manufacture based upon the date and place of issue. If a request for, say, 80 jackets and 65 pair of trousers was sent in, it's likely that 80 closely matching jackets and 65 pair of like-made trousers would be received. Now, those jackets might NOT be the same shade as the trousers, but they MIGHT be. Those jackets probably would NOT match the color shade of the others in the regiment, because of wear, fading, and other reasons, such as differing dye lots of fabric previously used, etc.
It's likely that, for example, 1000 jackets of the "Columbus Depot" pattern might be issued with 3-5 different shades of grey cloth, yet all the cloth would be, say, jean, and all the trim might be of identical shade and material. That's because the trim would be cut from the same bolt, and, being of such small amount compared to the jacket, allow for more use than the bolts of grey cloth would.
I'm much more inclined to use the term "identical" or "uniform" when referring to the PATTERN of the item rather than the exact shade. You'll see the very same thing with the modern military. The field jacket might be made to the exact same dye match and material type, but it wears differently depending upon it's use, and HOW the soldier wears it. Newer jackets will of course be darker, but when the unit lines up, regardless of the varying shades of OD green, they all present a uniform appearance.
Hoping this isn't too confusing, i remain, respectfully,

[Old Reb]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

In regards to the uniformity of Confederate uniforms, it might be best to rely on first hand description of what soldiers were actually wearing than relying on conjecture. I would think it would depend upon what time period one was speaking , and location of the unit discussed.I offer one such example of first hand observation of Confederate soldiers at one particular time period, but at several different locations. This does not mean that Confederate soldiers were not uniformed in identical color and sytle of clothes, but that at the time of this observation they were not. I refer to Lieutenant Colonel James Fredmantle's diary as one example of a first hand observation of what the Confederates soldiers he observed were wearing. At Monroe, Louisiana in early May 1863, he noted
General Walker's division as "dressed in ragged civilian clothes." Later in the month, while visiting the Army of Tennessee at Shelbyville, he notes that General Liddell's brigade was "well clothed, though without any attempt at uniformity in color or cut, but nearly all were dressed either in gray or brown coats and felt hats." He goes on to say that "even if a regiment was clothed in proper uniform by the government, it would become parti-colored again in a week, as the soldiers preferred wearing the coarse homespun jackets and trousers made by their mothers and sisters at home." He also observed that General Liddell's brigade passed in review in shirt sleeves, and most had lost or thrown away their bayonets. In late June, he observed General Lee's army near Hagerstown, MD. and noted "their clothing is serviceable....but there is the usual utter absence of uniformity as to color and shape of their garments and hats: gray of all shades, and brown clothing with felt hats predominant." As I said previously, it seems that it would depend upon where and when the Confederates soldiers were observed, but above example, from a creditable eye witness, would attest to the fact that the soldiers he observed were not uniformly outfitted.

[Clark Badgett]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Let's take the 4th Kentucky for instance (no I'm not a member, but I have veiwed their QM records). Here is a fairly typical, most respects, AoT regiment, and when you look at the monthly breakdown of the records, they rarely recieved enough uniforms in quantity to completely reissue more than half a company. And then the following partial paraphrased quotation by a member of the same Brigade about the uniforms of his unit, "mostly with with blue collars and cuffs" would indicate that no unit was 100% uniform at any given time. Also take into account that there was more than one depot supplying the AoT, and when you compare the style and patterns they seem to follow a trend. With I think 9-10 extant examples of the "Columbus Jacket" in existance, and none are the exact same in either cut or construction, it seems to me that there is sufficient evidence to support a conclusing that many different establishments were cutting the kits for the local ladies to sew up. Another point brought up by Old Reb was a first hand account that the the AoT unit he observed had a predominence of hats, well I wonder where they came from, as caps seem to be the only head gear mentioned on most QM records that I've heard of.

One thing that we as a collective need to get away from is this worry over "the correct shade" of color. I've been wearing modern uniforms for 12 years, collected WW2 uniforms for quite some time, and quite frankly if we still can't get seperate batches of modern material to match with modern exact chemical dyes, then how could the supply systems of the era produce exact shades from batch to batch back when the most common dyes were made from weeds.

So in answer to you question about uniformity, from my not so humble opinion, any reenacted unit that is 100% the same is about as wrong as those where the members get their stuff from the skinners. :)

[1stMaine]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Comrade Tom,
I agree that Freemantle was a contemporary witness, but I can't place as much faith in his descriptions as you. I consider him a biased witness, and not wholly creditable. He had an agenda, and his descriptions of Southern "uniformity", or lack thereof, are, imho, more reflective of his attitude as a member of a priviledged class, looking down upon his errant cousins, as it were.
Plus, he was writing for a distant audience, and it was in his interests to further the "ragged rebel" myth, as it showed his English audience how they were standing up to the "Federal Government", a government he was not at all supportive of...
Besides, you'll note that his reviews are of brigades and Divisions, not individual regiments, and no one in their right mind would EVER consider ANY Confederate brigade to be "uniform".
Now, I'm not ever going to assert that Confederate regiments were identically uniformed. What I WILL assert is that their were times when it WAS possible that a unit could have a "uniform" appearance, in that the jackets/caps/accoutrements/whatever were of an identical or similar PATTERN, and that in itself would lend an appearance of uniformity to the unit. They might have 4 different shades of grey, and some may or may not have trim, but overall, there were times when it WAS achieved, especially before campaigns. Hood's texas brigade was issued with new uniforms prior to heading west to join Bragg. That the issue was of a UNIFORM nature can be attested by members of the Brigade who reported that they had a bluish cast to them which caused the Brigade to be mistaken for Federals and fired upon by some Florida troops.
Were there perfectly uniformed CS units? perhaps, and very early on, or in some static areas. The images of Wheat's battalion show a remarkable degree of uniformity, but that's early on in the war. The Washington Artillery, as late as 1864, was contracting with the Richmond Depot for identically made and trimmed jackets, one of which was on display at Manassas.
It all depends upon the where and when more than anything else. I'm not averse to some uniformity, but it all depends on the circumstance.
Sorry for the long post....it's late and I just feel like talking:)
respects,

[Alamo Guard]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Well just another hidden factor. Look at the natural dyes used for the uniforms back then? Of course the cut of the cloth may have been the same, bit using natural dyes it would be almost impossible to obtain the exact color from one batch of dye to another.

[1stMaine]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Comrade,
Absolutely. Not only the dye, but the type of wool, what the sheep fed on, the minerals in the water, etc; all effected the resulting shade.
respects,

[Old Reb]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

I love y'all! I find debating, discussing, pondering, etc. the issue of what old Johnny Reb wore or did not wear fascinating. It reminds me of discussing how many angels can sit on the head of a pin! I look back at Mark's post that started this discussion, and believe he had some very good points and documentation to back it up. I did not use Freemantle as the final word on the issue, but as an example. Also, I believe Quartermaster reports are a good source, but having served in the military, I know what is on paper that the troops are suppose to receive is not always what finally filters down to them after many hands have had a chance to help themselves to the goods. Regardless, I believe it is possible to eliminate many things that the Confederate soldier did not wear and is worn by many Mainstreamers and sold by the skinners to them as being accurate. Finding out what patterns and materials were used is very useful in determining what the Confederate soldier was wearing. Again, I go back to the point I originally made, and that is it really depends on where and when the particular unit served. Well, I will close this and wish all a good Christmas, New Years, Winter Soltice, or what ever it is that makes this time of year important to all of you.

[Mike Ventura]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

I think that there is a HUGE difference between Eastern (ANV) and Western CS clothing issue based on geography and the distribution system. While Lee's Army never traveled much more than 90 miles from Richmond, and was thus connected to the distribution hub in Richmond by a (for the day) excellent rail and road system, the same cannot be said for the western Confederates, who traveled and fought across more than a thousand miles (trace the AoT from a "highwater" mark at Perryville, KY to it's surrender at Bentonville, NC - a route that meandered back and forth across Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina and North Carolina).

There are numerous accounts of western Confederates being clothed mostly in civilian or Federal clothing.

To wit:

A report that a Union regiment found it difficult to surrender to elements of the 8th Texas Cavalry (Terry's Texas Rangers) as all the officers and men were in civilian attire and the Feds were unable to discern who the officers were.

Documented evidence that a whole cavalry corps (Wheeler's) went from November 1863 to the end of the war in April 1965 (17 months) without being resupplied.

Documented OR that Dibrell's Eight Tennessee Cavalry furloughed the men home to get their winter clothing during the winter of 1863-1864.

Documentation that CS Major General Ben Cheatham was attired in civilian trousers, a shirt, no jacket and a piece of twine used for one suspender when a halt was called to extinguish a fire that had broken out between lines during the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain. in June 1864.

The 2nd Georgia Cavalry mustered in in June 1862 and were not issued uniforms until April, 1864!

I can not speak for or to the east, but the more I read about the west (my theater) the more references I find to support lack of uniformity in dress.

[LWhite64]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

As to Fremantle's description of Liddell's Brigade, I do find it to be mostly true. I have been collecting data on Liddell's/Govan's Brigade for over 10 years now and his comments hold true, add to that that a lot of the men in the brigade were originally from the Middle Tenn area, so it wouldnt have been too hard to get relatives to send them clothes. As to Mike's comments on Cheatham, "Cheatham looked rugged and healthy, though seemingly sad and despondent. He wore his fatigue dress-a blue flannel shirt, black neck-tie, gray homespun pantaloons, and slouched black hat." Cleburne was also known to dress in a similar style.

[DougCooper]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Trans-Mississippi was feast or famine. During the Spring-Summer 1864 Red River and later campaign, it was a lucky unit that traveled close to their home territory. the 28th LA was one such unit. Their families traveled with the regiment for 3 days at one point supplying the men with new homespun clothes. the source is Major Silas Grisamore, QM of Gray's brigade at the time, who ought to know. Grisamore on several occasions talks to the most needy getting any replacement clothing which tells me partial issues were the rule and you had to look pretty destitute to get to the front of the line...

Then again there is a great quote from a soldier in the LA brigade after Shiloh describing the entire brigade being outfitted exactly alike in caps, jackets, pants...and gaiters! 3000 of them.

The bottom line is extensive research is the only way to prepare for an authentic event...and even then you may ahve more questions than answers.

[dusty27]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

"I think that there is a HUGE difference between Eastern (ANV) and Western CS clothing issue based on geography and the distribution system. While Lee's Army never traveled much more than 90 miles from Richmond,...."

Maybe I'm not reading this correctly Mike, but Gettysburg to Richmond is nearly twice the 90 miles you refer to at 179.8 (Yahoo map distance). Did you mean to say something else or am I reading your meaning incorrectly?

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

Here is a quote from Rice Bulls Soldiering on Ramseurs North Carolinians at Chancelorsville;

"They made a soldierly though not a handsome appearance, as no two uniforms were exactly alike in color or material. The officers were much better dressed than their men; they had light gray uniforms, well fitted."

"The men looked to be well armed and equipped and so far as I could observe under rigid disipline."

Rice C. Bull
123rd N.Y.

I feel that CS troops should be portrayed as diciplined and well equipped within the confines of its harsh economic and industrial constraints. CS troops should not be portrayed as perfectly supplied in identical spottless uniforms, wich is incorrect for any military at any given time. Even our troops currently in the gulf, nor should they be portrayed as a ragged undiciplined mob.


I wish this forum had a spell checker :p

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

"I think that there is a HUGE difference between Eastern (ANV) and Western CS clothing issue based on geography and the distribution system. While Lee's Army never traveled much more than 90 miles from Richmond,...."

Maybe I'm not reading this correctly Mike, but Gettysburg to Richmond is nearly twice the 90 miles you refer to at 179.8 (Yahoo map distance). Did you mean to say something else or am I reading your meaning incorrectly?

Gettysburg and Antietam aside, the AnV was never a "far flung" army, and I feel it very safe to say that the AnV got the lions share of all the CSA's arms uniforms and commisary. They also did not have the vast geography to defend nor the enemy to defend it against.

[Old Reb]

Re: Event Guidelines: Confederate Clothing Issue

One of the many problems Bragg had after retreating from Murfeesboro was the fact that the Army of Tennessee had to protect what was left of Middle Tennesee while most of that area was under the control of the commisary in Atlanta and the material and food stuff collected sent to Lee's army in Virginia. That the Army of Northern Virginia was better supplied than the wester or Trans-Mississippi armies is without question. Though I believe the original topic was the uniformity or lack of it among Confederate armies, it seems thus far the preponderance of evidence weighs in favor of a lack of uniformity among most Confederate troops. Since we are trying to authenticate the subject in order to portray as authentically as possible the Confederate soldier, it all goes back to a previous post which calls for research into the particular unit we are trying to portray, and the where and when that portrayal replicates. I would say, that it is no more accurate for every member of a unit to be uniformly dressed no matter how authentic the kit is, than it is to be unauthentically clad. Well, maybe that is a stretch, but I say research into the unit portrayed is the key.