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  • Dyes and Fabrics

    With only a few post to my credit, I hope this is the correct location for this one.

    Using home dye recipes, I recently dyed some cotton fabric with black walnuts. It came out a perfect dark brown. I will use this to make my own shirts from period patterns, I have made 3 from undyed cotton and ticking. The process was as simple as boiling water. It would have to be for me to do it. I do not think I can get much more authentic as far as shirts go than making them myself with hand sewing. My wife advises me. She gets a kick out of it and thinks it is funny to see me sewing shirts and patching trousers. I have thought about getting a spinning wheel and loom, again she thinks it is funny.

    During my research I found a report to a newspaper that said 3/4 of captured confederate coats were of cotton and only 1/4 had any wool at all in them. The artical was supposed to reflect the lack of quartermaster's goods in the South. I think perhaps climate may have played a role. I have read where South Carolina Troops recieved "undyed cotton" coats and trousers as issue uniforms. The opposing Union troops were impressed by the enemy soldiers attacking in their "death shrouds". I think the book is called "The Life of Johnny Reb", I have it at home. I wonder if cotton is under represented as a uniform fabric for Southern Troops, I tend to think it may be. I am a member of a mainstream group in Texas who are beginning to move more progressive, some of us anyway. I would appreciate any advice or comments regarding the use of home dyes and cotton fabrics for projects. My current kit is a ways from "authentic" but progressing well.

    Arthur Maxwell
    Shepherd Texas
    Arthur Lee Maxwell
    Shepherd TX

  • #2
    Re: Dyes and Fabrics

    Originally posted by arthurlee View Post
    I recently dyed some cotton fabric with black walnuts. It came out a perfect dark brown.
    Your dark brown cotton will (within a season or two, assuming you wear them more than once or twice a season) turn a light brown, somewhat similar to a khaki color. Walnut dye is not extremely fast on cotton, especially if you didn't use a mordant. On wool, it is much more colorfast.

    Also, please post the reference to the percentage of cotton uniforms on Confederate soldiers. The good readers of this forum are always grateful to see citations of information that goes against conventional wisdom. Only through sharing information can the conventional wisdom change.

    Phil Campbell
    Phil Campbell

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    • #3
      Re: Dyes and Fabrics

      I think I've seen the article you're talking about. I'll have to dig through my Civil War in Headlines book to find the exact one, but the article refers to Union troops taking some South Carolina boys prisoner. The article states that 3/4 of the prisoners were wearing uniforms of cotton dyed with tobacco. I'll try to find the article and post the reference.

      This article was what prompted the cotton jean shell jacket I had my aunt make for me.
      John Spain
      4th Tennessee / 25th Indiana

      sigpic
      "If you surrender, you will be treated as prisoners of war, but if I have to storm your works, you may expect no quarter." Forrest

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      • #4
        Re: Dyes and Fabrics

        Sir;
        I use alum, and salt for a mordant for dying my cotton fabric with the walnut shells. If you plan to dye wool with walnut shells may i suggest that you use vinegar as a mordant, this will make the color deeper in wool.

        As for the incident report mentioned above it was i believe in 1862 that a federal force discovered that the confederate prisoners coats that they had captured were dyed from tobacco.. I have that report somewhere but can not find it at this time.
        [B]Rick Dennis, Major
        US Artillery Reserve Inc.
        [url]www.artilleryreserve.org[/url][/B]


        [B][FONT="Palatino Linotype"]"Infantry is merely a buffer between two warring armies know as Field Artillery"[/FONT][/B]

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        • #5
          Re: Dyes and Fabrics

          CHARLESTON MERCURY, January 1, 1862, p. 1, c. 4

          The Washington Star, of the 23d inst., says:
          The clothing of the "secesh" taken in the recent battle at Drainsville, proves that the enemy are, indeed, intense sufferers for want of Quartermaster's stores. Thus, three-fourths of their coats are of cotton cloth--not woolen--lined in some instances with a heavier cotton cloth, or padded with cotton. The coats of the South Carolina troops engaged were colored by being dyed with tobacco juice.

          [B]Rick Dennis, Major
          US Artillery Reserve Inc.
          [url]www.artilleryreserve.org[/url][/B]


          [B][FONT="Palatino Linotype"]"Infantry is merely a buffer between two warring armies know as Field Artillery"[/FONT][/B]

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          • #6
            Re: Dyes and Fabrics

            Thanks for all the input. The Washington Star article was the one I was looking at on the cotton coats. "The Life of Johnny Reb" seems also to be a great addition to EOG and others for researching kit improvements.

            Arthur Maxwell
            Shepherd Texas
            Arthur Lee Maxwell
            Shepherd TX

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            • #7
              Re: Dyes and Fabrics

              Well, if they ever got a hankerin' I guess a feller could just go to sucking on his shirt sleeve, right? Just joking, of course. I've come across the tobacco dye a couple of times myself. Here in the Carolinas that would certainly seem the dye materiel of choice what with the abundance and all. And in the temperate zones, Cotton clothing is a godsend compared to wool.

              Jim Trotman
              Last edited by tarheeltexan; 11-28-2006, 10:37 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: Dyes and Fabrics

                I plan to use the Alum and salt mordant on my next project. Currently I am looking for a cotton coat pattern. I will be "attempting" a mid war East Texan impression. I am looking for information on the home dyes used on these coats, sumac and walnuts both seem to have been abundant as they are now. Being from East Texas, I have been told that the Huntville Prison still has crates of cotton coats, as well as some shoes, all made at the prison for the war. We all know how rumors are, I will keep you posted on my progress.

                Artie Maxwell
                Shepherd Texas
                Arthur Lee Maxwell
                Shepherd TX

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