"The Simple Four Button Jacket"

[Dan Wambaugh]

Folks,

Over the last few years of making literally hundreds of dozens and dozens of different types of garment, only one has consistently entertained me and driven me to look forward to constructing it every time I receive an order. That is the simple four button jacket.

There are presently FIVE known surviving examples of the jacket, the most famous of which is the T.V. Brooke jacket that is erroneously listed as a "sack coat" in EoG. Four of these jackets are housed in public collections across the country, with a fifth in private hands. What is more, literally DOZENS of pictures have surfaced with soldiers wearing these jackets, most linked to late-war soldiers serving in Virginia.


This image was found in a small antique shop in Michigan showing what is likely a young confederate soldier wearing a unique style of the four button jacket. Notice that a top buttonhole is not to be found, but that the placement of the pocket, the fullness of the sleeves, and the overall patterning of the collar and front are similar, if not identical to other four buttons surviving today. The date on the image of March of 1865 gives this image a late war provenance much like the other surviving jackets.

Some interesting questions to pose to everyone:

1. Where did the jacket come from? Obviously the similar pattern and construction speak of a single production point, and the number of original surviving examples and surviving photographic examples point toward a depot producing the jackets. But what depot? The operating hypothesis I'm currently working with is a smaller depot in the southwest Virginia area, such as an installation at Lynchburg, Staunton, or other medium-sized town away from the federal army. Another more remote possibility is a soldier's aide society stationed in the same area, but with the increasing price of woolen cloth in the final year of the war I find the idea of even a well-funded citizen's group supplying this many garments impractical.

2. When were they issued? Our soldier above seems to be wearing a relatively new garment. A few wrinkles and wear spots but no staining, rips, or tears. Many other images and the provenances of the surviving originals point to a general timeline from the early fall of '64 up until the end of the war. Could these be an example of the last widely produced garment made from domestically woven yardgoods issued in the eastern theater?


I hope that others will chime in on this discussion with some further information about these extraordinary garments. I have a pile more of info about them that I will be happy to share as the discussion goes on, and I simply don't want to pile it all on at once. So have at it folks!


Best Regards,

[roundshot]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

A few issues back "Military Images" did an Alabama issue. There was an Alabama private wearing one of these, which was labled from the "Mobile Depot." It is certainly similar to some of the jackets associated with the Gulf Coast.I'm not espousing this; rather noting the editor's interpretation. There was also a great photo which someone on this board (Doug Cooper?) posted a while back which shows a Texas cavalryman from the Trans-Mississippi in one. I've attached it plus another from eBay.

QM Lawton notes a differention was made between summer and winter uniform issues. This may be a summer ensemble distributed to all parts of the Confederacy. Or it could be a Deep South product as part of inventorysent to Richmond as parts of the south were overrun by invading Federals, hence the late-war VA use. The cut itself is nothing remarkable from what was in general civilian use during the day.

I've seen similar coats among Antietam dead and in Russell's famous Fredericksburg RR trestle photo. I too love these jackets/coats and wear one. I have a couple other photos I'll try to rustle up.

[roundshot]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Here's the Military Images photo, which is in the collection of Alan T. Parker. It shows Private Joseph Parker, Co. D., 57th Alabama Infantry.

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Gents,

Ah, so the plot thickens and a western theater and much earlier provenance arises. Earlier this year Cody Mobley presented me with the above image and it prompted many discussions as to how this jacket could be seen on a soldier serving in the west much earlier than the eastern jackets were seen used.

As with many historical searches this raises even more questions than it answers.

1. Again, where and when were they produced?

2. Why have we seen such a dearth of first hand accounts on these jackets? There are any number of accounts talking about being issued uniforms from English army cloth, were these just too plain for anyone to take notice of at the time?

3. Could these jackets (and this is going out on a major limb here and no one is to take this as gospel) be the MOST versatile CS jacket made in terms of area and time period of issue?


Definitely some interesting questions to consider!


Best,

[roundshot]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

And then there's this early war line drawing (from a photo) of a member of the 4th Texas. There are those who will authoritatively (?) state this isn't the same coat. Maybe not (SA sacks and JT Martin sacks aren't identical either). It does however point out that the style is not unique even if the details differ. As far as being described in first hand accounts, they were probably so unremarkable in design and construction as to be unworthy of note. An English jacket, however, now that was a Cadillac!

[65thgainf]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

I have loved this jacket, since the first time I saw it at GBNP visitor center. I wonder about the lack of accoutrements in some of the photo's... ? I thought the majority of soldier images included them in full gear ? Could these be civilian pics vs. war time pics ?

[Iron Scout]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Gents,

Just to provide a tad of second-hand information from a credible source. Ms. McKenzie Anderson-Schultz of Fig Leaf Patterns (Atlanta History Center) has contended that this jacket's pattern dates dack to the 1840s as a workman's garment, and a popular one too. I've viewed the one in Ross County, numerous times and the textile on that jacket is a very loosely woven and coarse wool/cotton plains. I've always loved these things. Thanks Dan for undertaking this project. Talk to Chinnis and Neal Sexton too as they have numerous notes and photos of the original in Ohio.

Regards,

Neill Rose
PLHA

[neocelt]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Very interesting discussion! It's a shame that we don't have any provenance for the first image in the thread. Based on the lack of a top button & buttonhole, the noticeable angle in the edge of the coat just above the top buttonhole, the reinforcing stitching on the collar and the wrinkling pattern and shading, I would hypothesize that this might be a sack coat w/a fold-down collar and lapels that have been turned up (Don't ask me "Why?"--Your guess is as good as mine, and both would still just be speculation). Tantalizing, I admit...

Regarding the extant artifacts and numerous images of this type of garment: I don't know why we should be surprised to find a simplified jacket style showing up all over the place. If indeed this was a typical antebellum laborer's garment (which I have no reason to doubt), it would seem to be a most worthy candidate for military employment: It is a simpler pattern that the fitted "roundabout," and requires fewer buttons/buttonholes. It does require a bit more cloth (but not much). The fact that clear textual references in official documents to this type of garment haven't surfaced isn't all that surprising, either, since only a fraction of these data still exist (and who among us has surveyed it all?).

To Bob Williams: I would agree that the drawing you posted depicts an example of this style of jacket. Can you please post the bibliographic reference for this artwork (it is apparently based on a photograph)? Indeed, to all posters: PLEASE include complete references for quotations and images. Don't you just hate it when a book isn't footnoted?

Cheers,

[roundshot]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

The original engraving of Private Chilton, Co. "H", 4th Texas appeared in the "Official Minutes of Hood's Texas Brigade Monument Dedication," Houston, 1911. I believe it was later reproduced in one of Harold Simpson's volumes on the Texas Brigade.

The "laborers garment" angle is interesting . . . kinda like Civil War Carhartt.

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Neill,

I agree with your theory about the origin of this type of jacket. Through his own research of the LoC database and other accounts, my partner Brian has educated me as to the popularity of the simple "laborer's jacket." There are a number of images that show workmen during the war in northern manufacturing establishments that have similar garments. I certainly believe it to be the "beau ideal" of mass-produced military garments in terms of widespread availablity of the pattern, simplicity of construction, durability, and military appearance of the finished garment.

I have been fortunate to have benefitted from Dave Chinnis concerning the Ross County jacket, of which I have been working for the past six months to produce a faithful reproduction. Currently I'm developing a custom woven cloth which will necessarily be a bit nicer than the original stuff (try explaining to a weaver that you want a cloth full of slubs and of a quality that would normally get him fired.) Nevertheless I am confident that it will be very close to the "new" appearance of the original cloth. The Ross County jacket is also unique in the construction technique used to assemble the body which, while allowing for an ease of construction caused a dramatic mistake in the collar area. It is undoubtedly my favorite surviving original garment, if for nothing other than its provenance!


Nick,

The young soldier in the picture could be wearing a sack coat, but I personally don't think so. The wrinkle pattern in the collar and top corner don't seem to belie a folded back lapel. However, it is all conjecture considering we can't see the length of his coat. I simply assert it as a "probable" four button jacket based on the cut and construction of the body and collar, and the placement of the pocket. But with little other provenance than the March '64 date on the picture we will be left forever guessing.



Best,

[brown]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

This is a remarkable thread.

Could someone, like Mr White ot others, post a little info on the similar civilian workman's garmet. Either in this thread or another, whatever would be the most fitting for the forum.

Thanks,
Lindsey

[Iron Scout]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Dan,

These jackets have held my attention for a good number years too. The provenence has an interesting story unto itself as John Stillwagon debates and disproves most of Mr. Purdham's stories in a well documented article on the SG board. I can empathize regarding the weaver; been there too! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Regards,

Neill Rose
PLHA

[DougCooper]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

A few issues back "Military Images" did an Alabama issue. There was an Alabama private wearing one of these, which was labled from the "Mobile Depot." It is certainly similar to some of the jackets associated with the Gulf Coast.I'm not espousing this; rather noting the editor's interpretation. There was also a great photo which someone on this board (Doug Cooper?) posted a while back which shows a Texas cavalryman from the Trans-Mississippi in one. I've attached it plus another from eBay.

QM Lawton notes a differention was made between summer and winter uniform issues. This may be a summer ensemble distributed to all parts of the Confederacy. Or it could be a Deep South product as part of inventorysent to Richmond as parts of the south were overrun by invading Federals, hence the late-war VA use. The cut itself is nothing remarkable from what was in general civilian use during the day.

I've seen similar coats among Antietam dead and in Russell's famous Fredericksburg RR trestle photo. I too love these jackets/coats and wear one. I have a couple other photos I'll try to rustle up.

The photo on the left in Bob's post is contained in Portraits of Conflict, A Photographic History of Texas in the Civil War. Cody Mobley first told me about it. From the book: The man in what appears to be the 4 button jacket is likely Egbert Monroe Heath, the best friend of the man on the right, Horatio Gates Bruce. Both men joined Co H, 20th Texas Cavalry as it was accepted for service in March 1862. Bruce was elected Captain, Heath joined as a private...but then Heath was immediately elected to 1st Lt. There is no record, official or family, that Bruce was ever promoted to Major, but he wears a single star on his collar. Both men were captured at the Battle of Honey Springs, Indian Territory, July 17, 1863. They applied for exchange in Oct 63 but wrote down that they were both disloyal and did not wish to see the authority of the US Government restored...and were denied exchange. They were held prisoner for the duration of the war.

So when was this taken? Good question - taken all together, it is my opinion that it was taken sometime between mid 1862 after muster in and July 63 when they were captured. Unless the guards were in the habit of allowing CS officers to don swords for photos, it seems unlikely that it was taken in prison. Heath's jacket appears as though he has worn it for awhile, and the fact that they are taken together tells me both were officers at the time based on Heath's very early date of promotion to Lt. Heath has the collar folded down on the one side making a lapel and there may be some collar rank, but I cannot tell. Note the full pocket of the jacket.

The jacket itself appears to match the 4 button pattern based on what we can see, including the wooden buttons, topstitching, buttonhole placement, collar shape and pocket.

This is one of my favorite photos of the war.

[roundshot]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

While I'm not sure we can positively identify any of the discussed four-buttons here, I've always loved this late 1862 photo of "Confederate Sympathizers in Mo." as a real study of your everyday working-man of the period. Truly "rustics in rebellion." From Vol. V, "Shadows of the Storm."

[hardeeflag]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

My thought on the first image is this is just a simple civilian sack coat with the collar and lapel tunred up.