"The Simple Four Button Jacket"

[brown]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

There have been a number of references to cotton cloth and summer uniforms of cotton in this thread. I know we are discussing a broad range of similar garments, but are any of the originals (military or civilian) made of cotton cloth? Obviously workers' garments of the time would have been made of a broad range of fabrics, but am I correct in understanding that the military-connected jackets are all made of a wool/cotton blend?
Thanks,
Lindsey

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Lindsey,

John Stillwagon's survey states that all of the known examples of the war time issue jacket are a wool/cotton jean cloth of varying weaves. The three examples that have been available for close examination (Ross County, GNP, private collection) are all of different materials, but are all of a relatively low quality jeans, some being "tabby weave" or plain weave jeans. The Ross County jacket in particular is made from a rather shoddy plain weave jean with large wool yarns and a relatively low warp count. Of interest also is that the cotton warp has oxidized over time given the cotton fibers a tan cast, but the original color was likely a simple light gray.

Back on the topic of all cotton materials. It certainly would seem from the OR account Mr. Williams uncovered that had the war dragged on into the summer of '65 we would have seen more soldiers wearing all cotton uniforms, and the woolen goods being saved for the cooler months. Perhaps this is something the Confederacy ought to have considered doing all along!


Best,

[BumpusTN]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Second, photographs of a mysterious CS garment worn by a 9th Tennessee soldier named George McDill. The story thus far goes that McDill wore this garment during the Perryville Campaign and that he was sent home shortly thereafter, possibly wearing this garment. The relatively good condition this garment is in lends some creedence to this notion. If anyone has further information regarding McDill's service, please post!
Brian White
Wambaugh, White, & Co.
www.wwandcompany.com[/QUOTE]


Brian,

You might want to check out a copy of "The Confederate Ninth Tennessee Infantry" by JAmes R. Fleming, Pelican Publishing Company, 2006. Mr. Fleming is the Great Great Nephew of George McDill. The book is an excellent source of first hand information about Co. C of the 9th.

Scott Bumpus

[SCSecesh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

It's been a while since I posted here but in regards to the Ross County Jacket, I believe it is safe to use the term "Jacket" and not "Coat", but I would never say "absolute" about anything for the period without having definitive provenance and details.
The relationships between sleeve lengths and body length along with body size is much more jacket-like than coat-like. Really bad cloth and not the best construction, either. There are some really interesting details (or at least interesting to those of us who look too closely at textiles) that give very good hints at construction methods for the Ross County Jacket that are likely different than most would assume today.
Dan,
I found my measurement sheet for this jacket and will send it along when I return. I sent it to Ben a while back but he'd probably never find it if it's at the farm ;-)!

[James the Haggard Ranger]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

I am going to chime in here with some evidence that some 4 button jackets were issued as early as October 1862.

This is a quote from W.E. Matthews (33rd Alabama) dairy page 17, " Arriving at Knoxville about October 24, (1862), we had flour, corn meal, bacon, fresh beef, rice, salt, and the first soap we had drawn in two months, and a suit of clothes each, wollen gray jeans, jacket lined with white cotton sheeting, with four C.S.A. brass buttons, a pair of unlined gray jeans pants, white cotton sheeting shirts and drawers and white cotton machine-knit sleasy socks and pair of rough tan brogan hand made wooden pegged hard shoes. Some drew gray hats and those present drew some money. Most or all of us had been using finger knit woolen socks which were sent to us from home."

This is a direct quote so I used his spelling.

I hope this information helps some way.

James Wooten, Interpretive Ranger
Pickett's Mill Battlefield State Historic Site

[Doughboy]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Nick,
My first thought exactly. I noticed the similarity of the reinforcements around the collar and the lack of top button and immediately thought "sack coat", possibly civilian. No way to tell for sure but first impressions aren't always erroneous.
Christopher Wilson

[Minieball577]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

I got my copy of the Ross county jacket from Dan in the mail today, and it is outstanding. THe Tart Fabric is beautiful, and Dan's work is fabulous. Thanks.

[westcoastcampaigner]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

I received my copy of the Ross County jacket in the mail today and all I can say is....WOW!!! Unbelievable work Dan. Dito on the Tart fabric, it's great. Can't wait to get some use out of this one.

Best Regards,

Josh Sawyer
Liberty Rifles

[NC1862]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

So, would I be correct in assuming that this would be a mid to late war jacket?

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Tyler,

The general conclusion of this discussion would be that while the five surviving four button jackets are tied to the Richmond area in the last year of the war, there is overwhelming photographic and first hand account evidence of similar jackets being used throughout the war in various different theaters and at various different times.


Best Regards,

[ewtaylor]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

I am going to chime in here with some evidence that some 4 button jackets were issued as early as October 1862.

This is a quote from W.E. Matthews (33rd Alabama) dairy page 17, " Arriving at Knoxville about October 24, (1862), we had flour, corn meal, bacon, fresh beef, rice, salt, and the first soap we had drawn in two months, and a suit of clothes each, wollen gray jeans, jacket lined with white cotton sheeting, with four C.S.A. brass buttons, a pair of unlined gray jeans pants, white cotton sheeting shirts and drawers and white cotton machine-knit sleasy socks and pair of rough tan brogan hand made wooden pegged hard shoes. Some drew gray hats and those present drew some money. Most or all of us had been using finger knit woolen socks which were sent to us from home."

This is a direct quote so I used his spelling.

I hope this information helps some way.

James Wooten, Interpretive Ranger
Pickett's Mill Battlefield State Historic Site

Bean Station,Tn, in Eastern Tennessee was the site of some heavy fighting and large CS fortifications. Most of the area is now under a man-made lake, however there are a few spots (private property) in the winter time accessable to relic hunters. I have a CSA 2pc brass button found in this area. It has the correct period "Superior Quality" backmark, not the post-war "superior quality" backmark.
everett taylor

[Scotty017]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

I know I'm digging up an old thread, but I thought it might be better to post here than start a new one.

In all the discussions of these four button jackets, I've never seen anyone discuss the construction details of any except the Ross County specimen. From those who have examined it and offer reproductions, I understand that it has the unique method of overcasting the lining to the body. Does anybody know if this was done on any of the other existing jackets? Besides informing our manufacturing of reproductions, it might be useful in confirming which jackets came from the same sources.

[SCSecesh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Your stretching this guys memory here. As one of the first who had the chance to document the jacket specs a number of years back, I honestly don't recall any different method of attaching the lining to the body. It appeared as Wambaugh faithfully reproduced it with the inner and outer stitched right sides together and then turned. The lining was pulled back a bit from the from fabric when it was topstitched as best I can recall but nothing like the Lyons and or Daniels jackets. Both of these the outer fabric allowance is folded back and the the inner fabric is stitched on top of the folded outer. In the case of the Lyons it looked a little like a blanket stitch - probably too hard to see here. If John Stillwagon is still around (or Dan W. or Neal Sexton) - I believe they had images of the Ross County Jacket from me and notes. A lightning strike cost me mine and the loaned originals have long since disappeared.

[Scotty017]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Thanks for the information. I was basing my comments on their website here, which describes the lining as overcast to the body. I am currently working on one based on Charlie Childs' pattern and his instructions are the same. So it sounds like this technique is present in more than one of the surviving jackets?

[SCSecesh]

Re: "The Simple Four Button Jacket"

Let me stand corrected - As I look at the jacket Dan made for me, it is most definitely overcast! And Dan had the images and notes that I took years ago so I'm certain he's correct! These eyes aren't what they used to be - that's what I don't "count stitches" anymore.