Standard tailoring

[rejtiger]

Gents,

I have been out of the hobby for a few years and am just now coming back. I have done a bit of mending before, but I am about to finish the top stitching on a pair of trousers and would be greatful for any and all hints, techniques, etc. Thank you all in advance.

respectfully,

Ryan Johnson

[Lilymess]

Re: Standard tailoring

Alot depends on the type of trousers. If you give more details there are an abundance of people that could help you.

Scott Derick
Lilymess

[rejtiger]

Re: Standard tailoring

Scott,

You're right sorry to be so vague. The pants are jean with mule ear pockets and a back belt, civilian or private purchase (not Richmond depot as they have no split in the waist band). Thank you again.

Ryan Johnson

[Lilymess]

Re: Standard tailoring

From what I can recall, pants of that fashion usually had flap of the pocket topstiched ("L" pattern) the front of the fly is topstiched far enough back to gather all layers and linings and the button fly is topstiched as well. I can get you more info tonight, gotta run to work.

Scott Derick
Lilymess

[rpierson]

Re: Standard tailoring

Get a sewing manual that shows you a BACK-STITCH. Practice that stitch on lots of scraps and try to get it around 8+ stitches per inch. If you have trouble stitching in a straight line, buy some white tailor's chalk and chalk your lines on the garment before you start. Don't use a running stitch.

Most of all, purchase a seam ripper or small scissors and be prepared to rip your topstitching out until it looks good. Press your seams. Press your seams. and after that, press... your... seams. Have fun.

-Randall Pierson

[hiplainsyank]

Re: Standard tailoring

I was under the impression that the Topstitch is slightly different from a Backstitch. The backstitch is sturdier and for seams, while the topstitch, while studier than a running stitch, is a little quicker than the backstitch.

Just my understanding of it.

[utahreenactor]

Re: Standard tailoring

If I’m not mistaken topstitching is a technique that is not bound to a specific stitch. Its purpose is to hold the fabric together so it looks nice and neat and stays that way. For example in Pat Browns "For Fatigue Purposes" several of the hand sewn sack coats are topstitched with a half backstitch, where as CS depot coats are generally sewn with a prick stitch. I think what determines what stitch is used is thickness of a afabric or personal preference.

Galla Rock has images of SA mounted trousers that are topstitched with a full backstitch.

http://www.gallarock.com/GettysburgFedMountedPants.html

Chase Pinkham