Arsenal vs. Contract Federal Sack Coats

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Arsenal vs. Contract Federal Sack Coats

Back to an earlier point...No the correct weight wool material just takes a bit more searching and some knowledge of originals, but it is not the main source of the greater expense of better made Federal sack coats.

The main cost differential for the better Federal sack coats is in the labor. Exactly duplicating the cut and period dimensions such as the tighter fit under the arms, and handsewing the button holes, etc.It is interesting that unlined sack coats are more expensive than lined...there is a greater labor expensive in duplicating the sewing of the unlined sack coat (according to CJ Daley), further supporting that the main cost differential is in labor.

To the issue of the problem with over representation of JT Martin late war repro sacks, let me quote Patrick Brown in "My Own Observations on the Lowly Sack Coat" (Watchdog Vol 8, Nos 1 & 2) "...as far as typology, forget it, there are too many variations."

[Pvt Schnapps]

Re: Arsenal vs. Contract Federal Sack Coats

To stray off in another direction for a moment, is it really appropriate to speak of a single "J. T. Martin sack coat"? I don't have For Fatigue Purposes, which may answer this, but I know that the 1995 article in the journal of the Company of Military Historians examines a number of extant types (and has a photograph of a suspected knit blouse) and, while noting the similarities, also notes that no two are exactly alike.

This shouldn't be surprising given production methods at the time. One contractor might have numerous subcontractors, who in turn might deal with a number of individual seamstresses, even if they had a central cadre of tailors doing the cutting. You'd also have variations in fabric and dye from lot to lot. Mass production does not necessarily mean industrialization or mechanization, and those don't necessarily lead to exact clones.

I don't mean to imply by any stretch that any fabric other than lightweight flannel would be correct, or that a modern cut would be acceptable, I'm just questioning whether "J. T. Martin" really translates to a clearly identifiable, consistent style.

I'm fully prepared to be wrong about this, just interested in your opinions :)

[Craig L Barry]

Re: Arsenal vs. Contract Federal Sack Coats

Agree...see above posting re: Patrick Brown's assessment of sack coat typology from a WD article pre-dating FFP.