Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

[Sarah Jane Edwards]

I hope this is the right place to post this. I've used the search function to seek information on this but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. Can anyone point me in the direction of period images of federal officers wearing civilian style waistcoats? Our computer crashed recently and I lost my carefully hoarded collection of images and now am starting over. My husband portrays an asst. surgeon and has a military style vest, but I have the materials on hand to make him a civilian style one as well. Since I've been a user here, I've become paranoid about spending more time researcing/documenting the style I have in mind before construction than the time spent in actual construction so any links you could provide of images/original waistcoasts, etc. would be so helpful and very appreciated! Thank you!

Sarah

[NoahBriggs]

Re: Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

Hi!

Page 79 of Dr. Gordon Dammam's Pictorial Encyclopedia of Civil War Medical and Equipment, Vol. I shows a collarless vest with four pockets. Described as "Grey in color, with 6 staff officer buttons and the original brass adjusting buckle on the back. This vest came from the estate of Surgeon Geo. Rex, 73rd PennaVols.".

On page 75, it says,

. . . [W]e can visualize a wide range of uniforms and headgear. Most of these uniforms were made by tailors employed by the surgeons. Since the regulations were not ironcld, a variety appeared. . .

Officers were required to purchase their own stuff, from the drawers on out, belts, coats, &c. So this interpretation could be used to provide for civilian vests.

Corner Clothiers has a couple of photos to compare their repros with originals in their collection. perusing museum websites or maybe the Costume Society might generate some hits to get your reference files back up.

Bonne chance!!

[Sarah Jane Edwards]

Re: Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

Thanks for giving me a place to start looking. David is fond of being able to have some variation in his federal wardrobe, thus the civilian vest, thus the flap pockets on his trousers, etc. Was the collarless vest you're describing cut in a civilian style, or a collarless military style? Thank you,
Sarah

[DougCooper]

Re: Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

One thing I would like to see more of are white cotton or linen vests. Several originals exists and I have photos of a number of officer's and soldiers wearing them. Some may be made of wool as well. Here is an example of an Illinois Orderly Sgt wearing one - Lemuel Lee of Co H, 8th Ill. I have an originial CDV of an officer in one as well. Echoes of Glory Union has one on page 101 in a civilian cut and another on page 115 in a military pattern. I own such a vest and it is wonderful in summer!

[Sarah Jane Edwards]

Re: Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

That's a great image! I'll have to get out my copy of Echoes of Glory and take a look at the ones you mentioned.

Sarah

[NoahBriggs]

Re: Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

Was the collarless vest you're describing cut in a civilian style, or a collarless military style?

Definitely civilian! Though I'd recommend not using silk. After spending sixteen hours up to one's elbows in other people's blood and guts, and hating to be there, I do not think a silk vest would be appropriate even with an apron. You could shed the vest before working I suppose, but I still don't see silk. I confess that sometimes us medical reenactors forget how challenging, dirty and gory the other part of the job was. On the other hand, if someone can show it was done, I'd love to see it!

Mine is a red wine cotton vest, with blue and green yarn? woven through it. The best feature is deep pockets, and even if it gets ratty, hey, I do not mind. It does a great job keeping my body warm at night.

[Sarah Jane Edwards]

Re: Question Concerning Officers waistcoats

That's interesting that the civilian vest has staff officer buttons; I would have assumed that a civilian vest would have had non-military buttons. Also interesting that it's collarless. I made David a grey/white pinstripe civilian style wool vest last year, but didn't have enough material to make it with a collar so it's been hanging in the closet. I didn't know collarless vests existed and were worn in the 1860's so now maybe his vest will find life at last! :) If I make a silk one I don't see him wearing it that often, except for more formal occasions. He has a peculiar admiration for the bright green/blue silk I have so it will be used for him since I don't like it at all. Thanks so much,

Sarah