federal sack coat

[Ted Mueller]

After about 15 years I am making a new sack coat. I am a western private from Ill. I have a Homespun pattern sack pattern M002. I would like to make something other than the J T Martin pattern which it seems everyone has. Would someone comment on what changes I should make to construct a Schuykill or Cincinnati depot jacket. I have been hand sewing for many years and would rather hand sew it, which as I understand all the schuykill arsonal stuff was. Any comments will be appreciated.

Ted Muller

[TKlas]

Re: federal sack coat

Ted,

If your interested in really getting an accurate garment, I would tend to stay away from the pattern you are using or try to manipulate it to make it into another pattern. I am not an tailor expert, but there are several differences between the JT Martin pattern, Schuylkill Arsenal pattern, and Cinncinnati Depot pattern in regards to construction of the garment and size marks, etc.

If you would would like an Schuylkill Arsenal blouse that would be accurate for both Western and Eastern Theater, I would get a kit from Dan Waumbaugh and put it together yourself. I have a completely hand sewn SA blouse from Dan and my mess mate has one that he put together. The are very good blouses and should be more prevelent in our hobby - the entirely hand sewn version.

As for the Cincinnati Depot blouse, you may want to check with County Cloth to see if Charlie has any patterns available for this blouse. Also Chris Daley might be able to hook you up with some informtion as well. Cincinnati Depot was like the New York Depot in that they did not manufacture blouses. They were a distrubutor for uniform and equipage such as the blouse you own - the JT Martin blouse. And the JT Martin blouse is still a good blouse for both theaters and can be documented after original specimens. That is important in my view but having a good completely hand sewn SA blouse would be a great addition to your impression.

Whatever you do, I would recommend basing your blouse either be a pattern or kit, off an existing original garment.

I hope this is of some help.

[Ted Mueller]

Re: federal sack coat

Does anyone know where to find or knows what the sizing code for a 4 button would be? I see diffrent numbers stamped but what do they mean ? Also I read about the Schuykill , SK mark but what stile of letter and size was it? Trying to get it right ! Ted Mueller

[Craig L Barry]

Re: federal sack coat

1 = 36
2 = 38
3 = 40
4 = 42

There were also 5-6-7s but they were very rare.

Source: Columbia Rifles Research Compendium Second Edition.

[CJDaley]

Re: federal sack coat

1 = 36
2 = 38
3 = 40
4 = 42

There were also 5-6-7s but they were very rare.

Source: Columbia Rifles Research Compendium Second Edition.

Actually, the primary source would be the US QM Manual.

you may want to check with County Cloth to see if Charlie has any patterns available for this blouse.

Yup, he's got great patterns. If you can't get them directly from him, you can contact Needle and Thread Fabrics who carry his patterns at 717-334-4011

Also, please read this article before you do anything. It's a decade old, but a great start and loaded with primary source info for your project:

McKee, Paul, Military Collector and Historian, Notes on the Federal Issue Sack Coat, Page 50, Vol. XLVII, No.2 Summer, 1995, Washington, D.C.