Bandana as Headgear

[Fred Adolphus]

I have been studying a Gilbert Gual lithograph that depicts a Confederate soldier wearing a red bandana as a hat (ala Aunt Jemima). Thomas Arliskas pointed this feature out in a description of Confederate prisoners of war. I also noticed on the film "Birth of a Nation", filmed in 1916, that a prominently featured Confederate soldier, as well as numerous extras, wore bandanas as headgear. Many black field hands are depicted in contemporary photos with bandanas, as well. I have never seen a reenactor wearing a bandana, however. I wonder if this might be virgin territory for some pioneering living historians? It certainly seems authentic and documentable!
Thoughts? Comments?
Sincerely,
Fred
P3

[HOG.EYE.MAN]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

I normally wear mine round the neck but sometimes i soak it in water and tie it round my head on hot days.

Is this still a common practice out there?

:sick:

[pbhatfield]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

I remember hearing among 'hard cores' and other such n'yer do wells for years that the red bandana was not a period item, and have witnessed dozens of campaigners literally laughing out loud at guys showing up at events with those on. However, apparently, someone forgot to check the original sources.

On the other hand, I doubt that everyone had one on either in most regiments. Another point to ponder is that the modern 'bandanas' or 'do rags' may not contain the same kind of designs, and are probably ironed into the fabric whereas the originals may have been woven. I am not expert in this area, but the thought crossed my mind to mention it before everyone runs out to Wal Mart and shows up with bright red hankys on their head at the next campaigner event...cheers all.

[JacobReichwein]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

I think it's entirely understandable, however those neon colored ones that are 'made in China' are obviously not the ones they had. Is there any way you could get that photo on here for us?

[Joe Walker]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Fred-

I remember the paintings, as well as one from a cyclorama of the Nashville battle depicting Union men wearing them. I seem to remember there may be a union soldier in the Atlanta cyclorama wearing one. These were large handkerchief type cloths that could have doubled for bandages, face cloths, sweat bands as well as "head covers". The "bandanna" may be a western or mexican term. The wearing of these seems entirely plausable. If you recall, the officer from Co E of the 4th Texas was shot dead (and is still buried there) in the Devil's den after wetting a white one in the creek and wrapping it around his head.

Joe Walker









Joe Walker











.

[sam.p]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

I also would like to see a photo of the Gilbert Gual lithograph. Along those lines, John Pelham once wore a red and blue necktie (regimental Grenadier Guards) around his hat. It had been given to him temporarily from a visiting Englishman (a Captain Phillips). Reference Jeb Stuart the Last Cavalier by Burke Davis. Let's see if anyone now shows up wearing ties around their hats.

Cordially,
Sam Patterson

[Charles Heath]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

There's also a nice account of a rather well known federal officer at Antietam donning a bandana or handkerchief as headgear. Wish I could remember which.

One of my prize reenacting possessions is a linen handkerchief from Chris Utley, and it gets a workout in hot weather, and it came in very handy at last year's 1857 Ohio Camping Trip event. Come to think of it, I'm starting to get the idea the WIG is concerned about my personal grooming, as I get a handkerchief from a box from home at one event, some soap at another, and the greatest joke of all was a nice comb at Fort Granger, but I digress. Okay, if you insist -- how about some kindly Lilac Vegetal, or some brutish Bay Rum?

Phil, I'm trying to remember the three things that zapped the modern bandanas. One was the style of print, the second was the size (evidently the modern ones are too small), but cannot recall the third strike. In any case, a good rag is a fine thing to have in the field.

[FranklinGuardsNYSM]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

There's also a nice account of a rather well known federal officer at Antietam donning a bandana or handkerchief as headgear. Wish I could remember which.

Likely Edward Cross, of the 5th NH, and his famous "this is my last event" premonition prior to the Wheatfield, in which his usual red one was replaced with a black one.

[DJCasey]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Likely Edward Cross, of the 5th NH, and his famous "this is my last event" premonition prior to the Wheatfield, in which his usual red one was replaced with a black one.

Cross was wounded in the head at Anteitam attacking the Bloody Lane, which is why he donned the red bandana. After that he adopted it as his "war paint," wrapping his head in a red bandana again at Fredericksburg attacking Mayre's Heights, where he was again severly wounded, and Gettysburg in the Wheatfield, where he was killed.

[Hardtack Baker]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Hello,
The subject of handkerchiefs is very interesting. My sister's sister-in-law in Colorado is a collector and does talks on the subject. I will consult her further about the Civil War era, which she includes in her talks. However, to add a bit to the discussion, I'm reading parts of a book she gave me, "Handkerchiefs: A Two Hundred Year History"... (I attempted to send this through last night, but had trouble. If repeated, please remove. Thanks for your patience with an avid civilian newcomer.)
The source states that kerchiefs appeared in Europe around the middle of the seventeenth century, but popularity did not increase until the late eighteenth century. English printed kerchiefs dominated in America's early days. There were a number of reasons. Textile printing was complicated and expensive. It required technical skill, sophisticated technology, and large amounts of capital, all of which were lacking in America before 1800.
Also, England, tyrants that they were, tried to monopolize and protect their corner on the market. As late as 1782 an English statute prohibited the export of "any blocks, plates, engines, tools, or utensils used in, or which are proper for preparing or finishing of the calico, cotton, muslin, or linen printing manufactures, or any part thereof." But, determined Americans got around the rules.
John Hewson, an early immigrant and friend of Benjamin Franklin, risked the penalties of fines and prison to set up a textile business in 1774, and advertised in Franklin's "Pennsylvania Gazette" among is other goods, "patterns for printing handkerchiefs." Hewson joined the Pennsylvania militia in the Revolutionary war, was taken prisoner by the British in 1778, and had his printing equipment destroyed. He escaped a few months later and continued in the business until his death in 1810. This makes me appreciate the sacrifice of early civilians. (Hewson is attributed with printing the earliest known kerchief in our country with an American theme or pattern...it was a block print of George Washington riding on a horse and carrying a sword in his right hand. circa 1775. Who knew the lofty aspirations of the lowly handkerchief!)
Fast forward to the mid 1800's. As cotton production increased and lent to inexpensive cotton cloth, technology such as the cotton jenny (allowing one person to operate eight spindles at once), the cotton gin, a water powered spinning frame, other industrial espionage matched the explosion. Earlier, Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton and assistant secretary Tench Coxe saw how this would give America economic independence. They organized the American Manufacturing Society, and attempted to learn Europe's secrets. They even offered financial rewards for people to bring and set up the technology here.
As far as handkerchiefs, the earliest were printed with wooden blocks. By the 1850's copper engraved plates were preferred. The image or design was carved or incised into the particular block. Copper plate printing had the advantage of sharper, more detailed images. They were more durable than wood blocks, too.
Despite the revolutionary process of copper cylinders to print textiles, handkerchiefs continued to be printed by the traditional means of wood block and copper engraved plates. Early handkerchiefs were in monochrome...either red, blue, or brown. The most common dyes were made of madder, quercitron bark (that's black oak), and indigo. Brighter aniline dyes were experimented with in the 1830's and really replaced the older dyes after 1856.
Handkerchiefs were printed mainly by women and children. They roller inked the block or plate (mounted to wood, I assume), pressed it on the piece of cloth by hitting the back a couple of times with a mallet. By this means they were still mass produced. Printed kerchiefs, with designs or actual scenes, coincided with the revolutionary beginnings of our country, as well as the rise of the textile industry. America and textiles shared an intimate connection, reflected in the numerous patriotic printed kerchiefs. Noah Webster wrote: "Every engine should be employed to render people of this country national and to inspire them with the pride of national character."
As to the red handkerchiefs in question, this might be one clue as to the time frame: "Operating out of Riverpoint, Rhode Island, S.H. Greene and Sons produced the first "turkey red" handkerchiefs ever printed in the United States. In the late 1860's, according to Hillary Weiss, the company had hired the Scottish master of "turkey red," Robert Reoch, who had perfected the enormously complicated process for achieving the fiery red color." Greene and Sons had an ancestral family connection to George and Martha Washington. Later, the company of S.H. Greene and Sons advertised that it received the only medal for handkerchiefs awarded by the United States Centennial Commission. Simon Henry Greene (1799-1885) was involved in the textile business most of his long life. Greene's family had Revolutionary war heroes, his father created the second cotton mill in Rhode Island. Simon took over his partner's share of the business in 1842. In 1869 his four sons came into the partnership.
Another Company that produced and labeled turkey red handkerchiefs was Tacony Print Works of Frankford, Pennsylvania. (before the mid-1860's?) Most of this book deals with specific imagery on handkerchiefs, rather than patterned prints, as well as the field of children's handkerchiefs. So, I will try to research into the Civil War era, and contact some of these sources I know who present on the topic of handkerchiefs. Perhaps I will have more to share then that helps with the overall question of who used what specific handkerchief, how was it made, and how did it look from 1861-1865?
Thanks for your patience with the lengthy backround, which I find pretty fascinating.
Humbly, Mrs. Marie McNamara

[Fred Adolphus]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Thanks for all the replies. There are two lithographs by Gilbert Gaul that depict Confederate soldiers in bandanas. They are "Confederate Line of Battle" and "Holding the Line all Hazards". Both can be veiwed online. I couldn't figure out how to attach images on this reply.
Fred

[pbhatfield]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

I have to get one of those, Marie...thank you for the detailed input! Now if we just had someone who could make us correct 'sojer hankies' ;)

[pbhatfield]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Lilac? Bay Rum? Charles, thats harsh..I am thinking, perhaps errouneously, that Yorktown Visitors Center at the battlefield park has an example of a woven 'kerchief, though I cant recall if it is from the 1850-1865 period. Sorry to be so cluttered, gang, but it may also have been the "Jeff Davis Capture site" musuem in Georgia - I drove through there once, and they had an amazing little musuem with tons of original period clothing including hankies and an early frock coat in mint condition. At any rate, I suspect that even with copper plated prints, which is an interesting idea that Marie brings up, those werent the same as our modern versions - I want to see some photos or an original.

[AZReenactor]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Nick,
Can you provide a source for these assertions, particularly regarding them being made of scraps of shirt cloth.

I'd also be curious to see the source that indicates "any square piece of cloth would do."

[RJSamp]

Re: Bandana as Headgear

Nick,
Can you provide a source for these assertions, particularly regarding them being made of scraps of shirt cloth.

I'd also be curious to see the source that indicates "any square piece of cloth would do."

:bright cotton scarf: a large square of brightly colored cotton or silk cloth worn over the hair or around the neck"

Bandana
or Bandanna A pocket-handkerchief. It is an Indian word, properly applied to silk goods, but now restricted to cotton handkerchiefs having a dark ground of Turkey red or blue, with little white or yellow spots. (Hindû, bandhnu, a mode of dyeing.)

Source: Dictionary of Phrase and Fable, E. Cobham Brewer, 1894

ban·dan·na /bænˈdænə/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[ban-dan-uh] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation
–noun 1. a large, printed handkerchief, typically one with white spots or figures on a red or blue background.
2. any large scarf for the neck or head.

Also, ban·dan·a.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Origin: 1745–55; earlier bandanno (second syll. unstressed) < Hindi bdhnū tie dyeing]
Tie Dying, as in patterned dyed shirt cloth.

Bandana's (from the Hindi, enter the lexicon about 1752) are brightly colored silk or cotton squares used around the neck or face. Calico prints in cotton were a favorite (see the 1911 Oxford Dictionary from England). Cotton shirt cloth would work just fine. Common sense alone would handle both your requests for a source and the 'assertions'. We have pictures, paintings, diary writings, dictionary entries, newspaper articles....the guys knew how to use scissors and sharp knives to cut fabric (I'll let you find a source to prove or disprove that 'assertion')....they were good judges of using canvas duck vs cotton squares over their faces on hot days with clouds of dust and marching in 3 inches of dust. (the canvas or wool or jean cloth would be uncomfortable, the cotton shirt cloth works much better). Huck towelling would be a trifle thick...as would carpet, cotton blankets, and draperies. Cotton sheets would work fine, but then again, a cotton sheet is very similar to shirt cloth is it not?

John Henry Otto "Diary of a Dutch Mudsill" writes of march dozens of miles in thick choking dust....they covered their faces with cotton cloth liberated from near to the line of march homes.....