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Bandana as Headgear

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  • #16
    A little peer review is generally a good thing...

    RJ,
    Thank you posting the definitions to add to the discussion. However, I must disagree with your opinion that "common sense" should be sufficient. Aside from the fact that it really isn't all that common, there is that old problem that a great deal of reenactor "common sense" has proven to be a slippery slope too often leading to such things as flat fly porches on wall tents, wrought iron campfire implements, rendezvous chairs, canvas covered coolers, surplus army cots hidden in personal wedge tents, and sundry other reenactorisms and suppositions that have become far too rarely questioned "facts" by not being carefully examined.

    While I appreciate that there may well be basis for making the assumptions that Nick put forth, I think we are still a long ways from regarding them as accurate and correct. I questioned not the possibility that Nick's information might be accurate, but rather its assertion as fact. (As I also do a California miner impression I'm particularly interested in information regarding their practices and sincerly would like to know the source regarding them.) While your definitions may prove helpful I think you are jumping ahead and connecting dots that may not result in an accurate picture in the end.

    A couple thoughts to consider regarding these specific assertions. What were most shirts made from in the 1850s? How common was cotton print fabric used for shirting as compared to linen, wool flannel, or hickory cloth? Its fine to say fellows knew how to use knife or scissors but still quite a leap to say that 49ers actually actually did to cut up shirts into bandannas. How much easier and less expensive would it be to purchase kerchiefs or bandannas printed and made for that express purpose already or to make them directly from raw cotton shirting rather than from material that had already been turned into a garment. Before making the leap that "any square piece of period fabric would be correct" (would not that group also include canvas, wool, jean cloth, huck toweling, carpet, cotton blankets, draperies and even domet flannel?) I think it important to dig a little deeper and find some examples of what actually was used to make kerchiefs and bandannas.

    My issue is not with kerchiefs or bandannas. They were certainly much more common and necessary items in an era before Kleenex and paper towels. The utility of these everyday items is well established and I have and still do utilize them in the field. (My favorite is even constructed from printed cotton shirting material although I also like to carry a silk one on ocaision.) In the dust, sun, and heat of the southwest a good kerchief is an invaluable and even necessary item. From the history of their manufacture and production that has been shared in this thread alone, it would seem that printed hand kerchiefs were some of the earliest manufactured textile goods in America. Considering their commonness and utility how likely was it to make them from old clothing compared to being constructed for an express purpose.

    My question wasn't whether a square piece of cloth is a handy item, even as apparel and head wear on occasion, but what the basis for the assertions stated as fact were. Before folks go out cutting up shirts to wear on their heads because they read on the AC that it is the new kewl thing to do, I think a little more research and investigation is worthwhile, don't you?
    Last edited by AZReenactor; 10-19-2007, 10:29 AM.
    Troy Groves "AZReenactor"
    1st California Infantry Volunteers, Co. C

    So, you think that scrap in the East is rough, do you?
    Ever consider what it means to be captured by Apaches?

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Bandana as Headgear

      Let us not forget that Gilbert Gaul did not serve in the War and painted his works many years after...The fact that an artist may choose to include something in his work does not make it a God-given fact. I am not saying soldiers at one time or another didn't do it, but on the other hand the photographic evidence does not show this to be a very common practice or occurrence....thanks.
      Tom "Mingo" Machingo
      Independent Rifles, Weevil's Mess

      Vixi Et Didici

      "I think and highly hope that this war will end this year, and Oh then what a happy time we will have. No need of writing then but we can talk and talk again, and my boy can talk to me and I will never tire of listening to him and he will want to go with me everywhere I go, and I will be certain to let him go if there is any possible chance."
      Marion Hill Fitzpatrick
      Company K, 45th Georgia Infantry
      KIA Petersburg, Virginia

      Comment


      • #18
        1870 manufacturing of Calico For Bandana Handkerchiefs

        Here is a brief little article that is post war but may give some insights.

        The Manufacturer & Builder Vol II, issue 4 (April 1870) Page 121

        Striping Calico.

        There is a style of printing, in which dischargers are employed to remove color after the cloth has been printed or dyed. These dischargers are of the nature of bleaching-powder, and chlorine or chromic acid is frequently used for the purpose. They are usually applied in the following manner: Several folds of the colored cloth are placed between metal plates, in which the pattern has been perforated, and they are then subjected to very great pressure. The discharging liquid is then applied at the top, and soaks through those portions of the stuff which are exposed by the perforations in the plates, removing the color. The other parts, protected by the immense pressure exerted, escape from the action of the discharger. In this way the well-known bandanna handkerchiefs and similar fabrics are produced.

        Suspended from a curtain-rod are cans containing the coloring fluid, which passes by a funnel down into small tubes or pencils; these come in contact with the stuff, and may be regulated by the workers with the greatest nicety. After the striped pattern has been printed in the first instance, it is sometimes desired to give variety to the stuff by printing bands or stripes of other colors between those it has already received. For this purpose the rentreuse, or retaking machine, as it is termed, is employed, and worked in the manner shown in our illustration.



        These are the chief methods of applying colors in pattern to the material, but modifications are adopted for particular descriptions of stuffs. With some of the finer muslins, for instance, the colors are precipitated on to the material by the action of steam.
        Troy Groves "AZReenactor"
        1st California Infantry Volunteers, Co. C

        So, you think that scrap in the East is rough, do you?
        Ever consider what it means to be captured by Apaches?

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Bandana as Headgear

          Originally posted by Hardtack Baker View Post
          how was it made, and how did it look from 1861-1865?
          Mrs. Marie McNamara
          I recently purchased a book titled, The Useful Arts Employed in the Production of Clothing (1851)and in the cotton section there was a sub-section on bandanas. Since it was 5 pages long, I'm not including the entire transcription but only a portion and the rest is summerized.

          "The term Bandana is of Indian origin, and is applied to pocket handkerchiefs of a peculiar kind, both of silk and of cotton, made in India; . . . The ground of the handkerchiefs was usually red, blue, or purple; and the pattern almost always consisted of spots, either white of yellow. The color of the handkerchiefs was uncommonly permanent and enduring."

          The article continued to describe the process used to make the bandana fabric. The process was called "discharge printing." The cotton was dyed red or blue and as many as 14 pieces of fabric (12 yards each but no width was noted but after reading the size of the bandanas on the Bertrand [see below] I expect that they were 27 inches.) were stacked upon one another and put into a press. The press was a specific type where the pattern for the bandana was die-cut into the top section of the press and a bleaching solution of chlorine was allowed to flow through the holes in the press. To prevent the solution from bleeding outside the desired pattern, the press was hydrostatic press and the amount of pressure used was almost 800,000 pounds. After the chlorine was put through the fabric, water was then sent through to wash off the chlorine.

          This one factory that was being described had 16 presses and made 19,200 yards of bandana fabric in a 10 hour day using only four workmen.

          The fabric was shipped in pieces uncut and the purchaser could buy as many portions as he or she wished and only needed to hem the top and bottom since the sides were selvage edges.

          BANDANA HANDKERCHIEF - Silk [washing silk] handkerchiefs of a plain or TWILL weave, originally made in India, but later made in England. They came in black
          and prints (Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by T. A. Webster and Mrs. Parks. 1847).


          In my database Historic Accounts (1859-1861) there were a number of handkerchiefs and bandanas sold. There were 11 sales of bandana (some were multiples in one sale) and 307 sales of handkerchiefs (some were multiples in one sale.)

          A silk handkerchief sold for $ .50 up to $1.00 and bandanas sold for anywhere between $ .63 and $1.25 each. Linen handkerchiefs sold for between $ 12 1/2 and $ .25 cents. Cotton ones sold for between $ .25 and $ .38. Linen cotton ones sold for $ .12 1/2 and
          $ .38. Other handkerchiefs sold were pocket handkerchiefs with no specifics, cambric, worked, ladies', boys, Turkey cotton [I assume these were turkey red ones], bordered, hemstitched, black and white silk, colored cotton, fancy, small, child's colored silk, and lawn. Calico print or checked or gingham handkerchiefs were not mentioned.

          On the Steamboat Bertrand (sank in 1865) were a number of pieces of bandana
          fabric and handkerchiefs.

          The handkerchiefs were black silk, with two selvage edges, two hemmed
          edges, with dimensions of 32 1/4" by 31 1/8" inches.

          The description of the fabric is from the Bertrand records. "Material -
          Silk. Color - Red, white, brown. Description - Fabric has pattern of
          uncut blocks of approx. 7 bandanas, pattern is of white rings with brown
          except around center in diagonal rows on red background with a border
          consisting of narrow faint stripe of brown, wider saw tooth edged white
          stripe, 2 chain rows of ovals with dashes on them, followed by scalloped
          brown edge with elongated brown dots on white background. Length - 13-14'
          [entire piece of fabric with each panel measuring between 23 1/2" to 24"].
          Width - 27"." [A closeup of this fabric looks like diagonal rows of
          eyeballs, white with brown centers, on a red background, with a brown and
          white border.]

          Description of second piece of bandana fabric from Bertrand. "Material -
          Silk. Color - Red and white. Description - Pattern printed on fabric is
          in square sections set at 45 degree angle to grain fabric occurring 7" apart
          which consist of 24 small white diamonds with red dot in center, with
          diagonal rows of same diamonds occuring between square sections.
          Dimensions. - Width - 27". Length - 13-14'." [This fabric was not divided
          into sections as the first piece was and the pattern consisted of large
          blocks made up of small white squares bunched together, with the small
          squares having a red dot in the middle. Between the large composite blocks
          was one small white square with a red dot in the center.]

          From the Charleston Daily Mercury May 2, 1854 (From Vicki Betts' newspaper database.]
          "Handkerchiefs, cotton, fast colors, 32 x 30 inches, weight not less than
          2 oz. each, texture 8 x 8 to 1/8 inch
          Handkerchiefs, fancy silk, fast colors, 28 1/2 c 27 inches to weigh not
          less than 5 oz. 140 grams per piece, texture 8 x 11 to 1/8 inch"

          If I find anything else, I'll be glad to post it.
          Virginia Mescher
          vmescher@vt.edu
          http://www.raggedsoldier.com

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Bandana as Headgear

            Virginia,
            Excellent information. So much better and more precise than any "old square piece of fabric will do." Thank you so much for sharing it.
            Troy Groves "AZReenactor"
            1st California Infantry Volunteers, Co. C

            So, you think that scrap in the East is rough, do you?
            Ever consider what it means to be captured by Apaches?

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Bandana as Headgear

              Found this and some others at various estate sales here in Calif. They aren't the typical bandanna print or handkerchiefs seen. The clover leaf print is EXACTLY like the one from Union EoG. I plan on using these for a book I'm working on which shows pictures of and explains Civil War soldiers personal items. Handkerchiefs and the like are some of the things I'm trying to show. But first, I have to get other things taken care of...

              Anyway, enjoy!
              Attached Files
              James Ross

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Bandana as Headgear

                Originally posted by Moonshine View Post
                Found this and some others at various estate sales here in Calif. They aren't the typical bandanna print or handkerchiefs seen. The clover leaf print is EXACTLY like the one from Union EoG.
                Anyway, enjoy!
                Thank you for posting the images. Could you also post the dimensions when you get the chance? Also, are all four sides hemmed or are just two edges hemmed?

                Thanks.
                Virginia Mescher
                vmescher@vt.edu
                http://www.raggedsoldier.com

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: Bandana as Headgear

                  I'll check for sure this weekend on dimensions and hemmed vs. unhemmed. Others I have are hemmed on all 4 sides.

                  The dimensions are smaller than I thought they'd be for this particular handkerchief. One other I have is HUGE and dwarfs this one considerably.

                  I'll post later this weekend or next with more concrete dimensions and details.
                  James Ross

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Bandana as Headgear

                    As Virginia describes (thanks!!) if there was a standard size it was 32" on a side. Pat McDermott, an 1860's material culture guru many of us remember from days past, studied original examples and patterns, both domestic and imported, and his research identified that dimension, likely having much to do with its purpose - as a head covering. I would give much to have some of the fabulous printed reproductions he made.
                    Soli Deo Gloria
                    Doug Cooper

                    "The past is never dead. It's not even past." William Faulkner

                    Please support the CWT at www.civilwar.org

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Bandana as Headgear

                      The sides are sewn on 2 ends and measure 19" x 21.5".

                      The other(s) I have measure more around the "common" size with dimensions of 29" x 24".

                      BTW, none have an "Elephant" logo, "Tuside" or "ColorFast" mark on the borders.

                      Hope this helps!

                      JR
                      James Ross

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Bandana as Headgear

                        Didn't know I had 2 more photographed.

                        These 2 are the BIG ones!!!
                        Attached Files
                        James Ross

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Bandana as Headgear

                          I have a Pat McDermmont handkerchef- It is silk

                          Joe Walker

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: Bandana as Headgear

                            Herre is a link to an original Hankerchief/bandana at the Museum in Oshkosh, WI. I was surfing thru items in the museum furnished in the link about the Iron Brigade uniforms currently on the A/C forum here.

                            http://www.oshkoshmuseum.org/Virtual...t3/e30207b.htm

                            Hope you all enjoy it. Scott Cross is the Museum curator and a member here on the A/C forum. I would guess you could ask him any pertinent questions as he is a great guy!
                            [FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=DarkSlateGray][SIZE=3]Michael Phillips, GGG Grandson of
                            Pvt Edmond Phillips, 44th NCT, Co E, "The Turtle Paws"[/SIZE]
                            [SIZE=2]Mustered in March 1862
                            Paroled at Appomattox C.H. Virginia, April 15, 1865[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

                            [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=Navy][B]"Good, now we'll have news from Hell before breakfast."[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]
                            Was Gen Sherman's response upon hearing the capture and execution of 3 reporters who had followed from Atlanta, by the rebels.
                            The execution part turned out to be false.[COLOR=DarkRed] [B]Dagg Nabbit![/B][/COLOR][/FONT]

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Bandana as Headgear

                              I remember reading in "Uniforms of the Civil War" by Philip Hawthornthwaite a description of an outlandish bandana worn by an Iowa soldier, I believe. I don't remember the exact color scheme, but it was something along the lines of a yellow neckerchief that depicted a blue steamboat steaming down a green river, billowing red smoke out the stacks. Wasn't able to locate my copy to confirm. Regardless, an interesting example of the colors and patterns that could be printed, although this is likely an exception to the norm.

                              On somewhat of a tangent, there's also the early war photos of the Clinch Rifles with their paisley shirts. I think those patterns were printed on.
                              John Christiansen
                              SGLHA
                              PLHA

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Bandana as Headgear

                                That's great information there Mr Baker.
                                Does anyone have any specifics relating to the size of these kerchieves ?

                                Thanks.
                                Boot.

                                Nick S. Passey
                                Survivor Bank's Grand Retreat.
                                Nick S. Passey
                                Great Britain
                                B.G.R. and I.P.W. and Bummers survivor.

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