Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

[btfire]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

I have been paying close attention to the many pictures of buttonholes. I am not able to travel enough to see many original examples with my own eyes, so thanks to those that posted pictures. Since I have taken an interest in making my own garments, I have a few questions. First, I may be missing something. Based on the tutorial it appears there are many more stitches per inch then the photos show. Am I missing something, or were these garments more hastily put together? I may be reading into the instructions too much since it appears that all of the thread is doubled. Second, the originals I have seen (which again is limited) appear to have more stitches than I can count. Now, three of the examples (I have seen) are officer coats which were tailored and I assume can go against the norm. When making the buttonhole stitch, should I follow the above directions to the letter, or should I just wait to finish my coat until I gather more data? (Perhaps someone with more photos can assist me in this) The coat I am making is a jean wool frock for an early SC impression. The coat is complete minus the buttonholes.

[Ian M.]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

Neill -- do you have any photos of Lt. Walkers full jacket you could post?

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

First, I may be missing something. Based on the tutorial it appears there are many more stitches per inch then the photos show. Am I missing something, or were these garments more hastily put together? I may be reading into the instructions too much since it appears that all of the thread is doubled. Second, the originals I have seen (which again is limited) appear to have more stitches than I can count. Now, three of the examples (I have seen) are officer coats which were tailored and I assume can go against the norm. When making the buttonhole stitch, should I follow the above directions to the letter, or should I just wait to finish my coat until I gather more data? (Perhaps someone with more photos can assist me in this) The coat I am making is a jean wool frock for an early SC impression. The coat is complete minus the buttonholes.

Stitch count varies from garment to garment. I would consider the instructions technical instructions on how to do the stitch and make a buttonhole, generally. The characteristics of a particular repro garment's construction will vary.

Also, I may be mistaken, but I would highly doubt that the thread is doubled on an original garment you are viewing... it probably appears that way due to a high stitch count.

I hope this helps!

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

These buttonholes are from civilian garments, not CS uniforms. However, they are typical of the buttonholes I find on many civilian garments - male and female - and show the skill and expertise of the sewist/tailor.

The first image is one of the buttonoles on an original pleated front shirt c. 1850-1860. Each pleat is accented with drawn thread work. The length of this buttonhole is 3/8 inch.

The second image is a buttonhole from an original silk satin vest. The length of this buttonhole is 7/16".

[Thomas Alleman]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

Thanks I was just talking about practicing buttonholes. Mine are OK but not that good. The question I have are the buttons supposed to cover the buttonhole, say on a jacket or can the buttons be smaller? Showing more of the hole. Again great pics.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

The question I have are the buttons supposed to cover the buttonhole, say on a jacket or can the buttons be smaller? Showing more of the hole. Again great pics.

If the diameter of the button is too small compared to the size of the buttonhole, then the button might "pop open" more easily. However, the stitching will tend to show on most buttonholes when the garment is buttoned because the two parts will tend to pull at the button/buttonhole. This forces the shank/post of the button to one side of the hole, exposing the stitching at the other side. Make sense?

[mattifatti]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

I just received a new jacket and am preparing to sew my own buttonholes. Now, I will def. practice before I begin and when I begin I will quadrouple check my measurements and buttonplacement. BUT, before I begin, I did have a few questions about sewing the holes.

First, in the pictures provided in this thread, I do not notice two things that I have read are recommened. One, I don't see lines of stitching around the buttonhole to re-inforce the hole and two, I don't notice a bar tack on the end of the hole away from the edge. They may be there and I don't see them OR they just might not be there.
Also, would these buttonholes be sewn similar to federal coats?
Further, what would be a similar thread used on eastern federal coats (size, color, and material)?
Thanks for your help,
Matt Kraybill
61st New York

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Originals: Looking at Buttonholes (CS)

My compliments to Scott and Fenny Hanes!

This weekend, I was perusing the wares in E.J. Thomas' tent and had a chance (finally!) to have a look at their goods. In-Stock was a Tait jacket. Upon close examination of the buttonholes, I found that they look just like the originals (see below for an example).

The topstitching looked great, too.

Really great work, folks! Just wanted to share!