Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

[LibertyHallVols]

Hello!

This is the companion thread to the examination of buttonholes on original CS garments.

RULE #1 for this thread:
Do not post the name of the maker of any item unless YOU MADE IT!!!!! I will delete your post with a vengence!!!!! I want this discussion to focus on the item, not the maker. I don't want to cloud anyone's views with brand names.

So, feel free to post pics of buttonholes on repro CS garments or ask questions or give critiques/observations/constructive feedback of pics that others have posted.

Let's keep it constructive.

OK... I'll get things going... gather those rotten tomatoes... here's two garments that I made this year.

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Those qualify as "quite nice" in my book, John. The stitching, particularly on the brown version, is dense enough to cover the fabric entirely, without looking crowded. You managed the reinforcement/stabilization well, and your tensioning well, because the hole is quite straight, and not bowed out along the legs. Stitching depth is tidy, and looks to be well-suited to the fabric weaves (deep enough to be stable, not so deep as to "stand out" during use.)

[Marc29thGA]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

I'll take a stab - here is a button hole on a CS frock I made this fall:

[pgoudeau]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Here was my stab to to hand sewn buttonholes.

Here is the link to the entire garment.
http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...ood+sweat+tear

[rbruno]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

John, yours look good. I was hoping to get some feedback on mine from the shirt I posted in the other thread. I guess I will just have to read what others are saying about the ones posted in this thread. The ones posted so far look great. Marc, yours bring up a question I have asked others that have studied period garments and sewing techniques and get different answers. It looks like you doubled your thread when sewing. Meaning you threaded the needle and matched the two ends of the tread so you were sewing with essentially two threads. I have ask people what was the common practice of the tailors/seamstress of the period. Did they double the thread when they sewed. Again, I have had different answers. If anyone has an idea of what was the more common practice, I would be interested.
Rob Bruno
1st MD Cav

[Marc29thGA]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Rob,

I wish I had a better answer for you, I do not remember where I read/heard about it, but tried it and it did work well on Jean Cloth. So, that’s part of my reason for sharing, to get some critique and more knowledge in my head too - to do the right/correct thing.

Or is it like you mention, there are a couple different methods, either one being correct. A few months back there was a great thread here on stitches per inch and which method of counting stitches per inch was common (visible, or visible + non visible). I enjoyed and learned from that.

Looking forward to what Ms. Clark or one of the other great sewers/tailors on the AC can offer for us budding seamstresses…

Kindest regards,

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Really, the best bits of advice I can give on buttonholes are:

1: Reinforce the hole before cutting. Going around your hole position with a very short running stitch, making a little rectangle, and then going around a second time, filling in the "gaps" in the stitching--or else, using a short back stitch to reinforce the position, really helps to stabilize the long sides, and prevent a bowed-out "round" hole.

2: Watch your tension. Drawing too tightly on a non-reinforced edge makes it bow out, and you get an oval or "round" hole rather than a straight-leg one. (Now, some originals have the same problem, as not everyone in the period was perfect! :) )

3: Don't Use "Button" thread. "Button" thread, found in sewing shops, is for sewing buttons onto upholstery. It is *not* buttonHOLE thread. :) Buttonhole twist is a lightly 2-plied thread that spreads out flat as you sew, giving better coverage to the buttonhole. It can also be hard to find. If you can't find buttonhole twist, use plain old sewing cotton; a very light waxing helps prevent tangles in the thread.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

I'll take a stab - here is a button hole on a CS frock I made this fall:

Marc,
Not much I can add to Elizabeth's comments. Looks like a pretty good effort. Your stitches are evenly spaced both from each other and the distance from the hole. The thread looks like a heavier thread, though... what is it?

Paul,
The hole looks like it really opened up during sewing. How are you cutting the hole? The instructions posted by CJ Daley have really been my "bible" for sewing buttonholes. One of the valuable nuggets in there is the recommendation of using wood chisels to cut the holes. You get a really clean cut that way, helping ensure they hole stays a "slit", rather than opening up. Most of my buttonholes that appear more open now are due to use, rather than construction.

Thanks, folks!

[Marc29thGA]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

John,

It is a thread similar to the Hy-Mark 16-4 on those button holes. I have also used #12 by Sulky (100% cotton type) in past projects.

I also just started using CJ Daley’s chisel method and do like the results. Definitely a cleaner cut than the seam ripper/scissor method.

Take care,

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Using a nice sharp wood chisel is likely less expensive than buying the "looks like a wood chisel, but called a buttonhole chisel at double the price" tool from a sewing shop. :)

[27thNCdrummer]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Mr. Wickett,
Could you possibly post Daley's instructions here? I would love to take a look at them.
Thanks,

[Marc29thGA]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Andrew,

Mr. Daley just recently re-posted these instructions here:

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14698&highlight=buttonholes&page=2

There are also a couple buttonhole articles in the "Research Article" section.

Kindest Regards,

[Ian M.]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Mr. Daley's re-post is a huge help!

One question: how was button hole spacing -- top to bottom -- typically done? Did the patterns of the day have buttonholes in the template? Was it strictly by eye-balling the garment with the number of holes needed in mind, or was it generally a more calculated, measured out affair (in the absence of a template off of a pattern)? I know many approaches were probably done, but any comments on frequency, techniques, etc.?

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Here's a good site for looking at the buttonhole stitch itself.

http://www.ushist.com/general-information/stitch.htm

A lot of folks do the blanket stitch by mistake (also shown on the website). Although the two are similar, they are not the same. So, be sure you are doing the right stitch. I was doing this wrong until about 2000.

[Marc29thGA]

Re: Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

Good one John, I had forgotten that link.

Here is another with lots of sewing infromation:

http://www.vintagesewing.info/19th/1892-sn/sn-toc-long.html

Merry Christmas!!