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  • "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

    EJT is an approved vendor here, and Ross Lamoreaux is fairly well known, some would say "notorious" in these parts. Paul Calloway and I agreed that readers here may enjoy perusing this review.

    The following product review appears courtesy of The Watchdog, and will be published shortly in a future edition of The Watchdog pages in Camp Chase Gazette. The EJT review was scheduled for the final self-published edition (Fall 2007) of The Watchdog but was not ready in time.

    The pics and diagrams did not attach and I am too much of a Luddite to figure that part out.

    CLB

    A Few “Thoughts” on Men’s Shirts From E. J. Thomas Mercantile.
    Craig L. Barry

    Whether Union or Confederate, after shoes and head gear the most often overlooked aspect of men’s garments necessary for an improved Civil War impression is the shirt. While seemingly simple, the cut and construction of a man’s shirt actually involves some fine hand sewing and tailoring. If trousers or sack coats were somewhat ill-fitting, that is one matter, but a poor-fitting shirt will hamper a man’s movements, and a poorly constructed garment will not stand up to the wear and tear of outdoor living, much less washing by hand with lye soap. Ignoring the government issued shirts for the time being, we can never know the full extent of what exactly was worn by soldiers during the Civil War, but we have some good ideas. The appearance of the Federal government issued shirt is well documented, and information is widely available. The Confederate government (and states) issued shirts in some quantity; however, there are few if any surviving specimens available to examine. There are those who state that there were no Confederate supplied shirts, however a close look at Confederate records, including those for the least prosperous year of the war, reveal some startling statistics. “For example, during the last six months of 1864 and including to 31 January 1865, the Army of Northern Virginia alone was issued the following: 157,727 Cotton shirts, 170,139 Pairs of Drawers, 21,063 Flannel Shirts, 74,851 Blankets.”(1)

    Fabrics used to make civilian shirts included wool, flannel, heavy cotton, and fine shirts were made of linen, muslin or fine cotton. However, despite the variation found in the number of surviving specimens, a few broad conclusions can be supported by the evidence we do have. Consider possible pattern variation not only in terms of surviving garments but keeping in mind that during the Civil War-era, everything was re-used. Remnants of useable fabric from worn out or torn shirts can still be found in period quilts. These allow some insight into both the appearance of the cloth and the various print patterns used for shirts.

    A good starting off point for anyone interested in a serious study of mid-century men’s shirts should consider Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America, 1750—1900 by William L. Brown. One thing you will notice is that the shirts did not button all the way down the front. Also in looking at the pictures and illustrations is the location of the button holes on the cuff. The vast majority from the photos of 1860s-era shirts in Brown’s book suggest that with the sleeve crossed over, as if the man were crossing his arms, you actually see the buttonhole. Perhaps the author did that to fit the shirt on the page better? Whatever the case, the buttonhole is in the back of the cuff. (2) Cuffs on Civil War-era shirts varied as well. Cuffs can be added using the material of the shirt or a different color or even a different material. Most cuffs were about two inches wide.

    These changes began around the middle of the 1840s, and other major improvements included a lower neckline and more support across the shoulders. The placket front began to appear and extended to about the sternum with three or four buttons. By the 1860s tailoring sophistication had increased and shirt cut changed radically. (3) The modern “set in” sleeve was introduced a contoured arm pit and corresponding cut in the sleeve head. Shirt tails began to have rounded corners as well.

    Let’s consider for a moment the subject of collars. Shirts with button on collars were becoming more common, but by no means ubiquitous. There were also many examples of shirts which were collarless. (4) Also consider that with a button on “removable” band collar, going collarless is a viable option (one often availed by me) as well. Hence, with detachable “band” collars even collared shirts could be worn collarless. There were also attached collared shirts with short squared points. You can change the appearance of a single shirt for multiple wearing by attaching and removing the collar on different days. Pockets were not sewn on most shirts. Heavier overshirts often had a breast pocket or two. The pockets were generally lower on the shirt and larger than breast pockets on shirts today.

    In terms of fabrics, white cotton was the most common shirt material. Printed fabrics tended to have white backgrounds with small designs in one or two colors. (5) As far as improving your impression with a decent shirt, you have only three options. Buy off the rack, have a shirt custom made or sew your own. Which ever way you choose, here are some things to consider. In terms of material, it is best to stick with (homespun) one hundred percent cotton or wool flannel, and linen instead of modern blends. If a blend is used, it should be something like linsey-wooley (cotton or linen and wool) that is documented for the time period. The cost of the better fabric in negligible compared to the impact it has on the appearance of the shirt. It will be more accurate, as well as being more comfortable to wear. With another nod to accuracy, first consider patterns and finished products based on documented original specimens, either photographs or in museums.

    Next, chose buttons that are correct. Stay away from any plastic and modern buttons. Nothing kills the appearance of an otherwise period correct shirt than plastic buttons. Go with glass, bone, shell, metal, porcelain, two or four holed solids or mother of pearl. As long as “The Button Baron” (John Zaharias) is still around, there is a time honored provider for authentic buttons, and he is a recommended source. (6) Glass buttons are nice because you can match them to the fabric. While metal buttons were authentic to the time period, consider the effect of possible rusting on the fabric. If there are four button holes, they should be sewn on in a crisscross or X-pattern.

    If you purchase a shirt “off the rack” that is already made, even if the material and design is correct (doubtful) it may still have machine sewn buttonholes. If so, you should rework the buttonholes to make the shirt more correct for the time period. Yes, there were sewing machines, and yes some of them were capable of producing button holes, but even when shirts were machine sewn, the buttons and button holes were still done by hand. Take a seam ripper and pick out the buttonhole stitches and handwork them using the “buttonhole stitch.” (7)


    The stitching around the buttonhole should look like this. Working from left to right, bring the thread out on the lower line, position the needle through the upper line and take a straight downward stitch. Keeping the thread under the point of the needle, pull up the stitch to form a loop and repeat. In fact, it is suggested that you remove all exposed machine stitching and hand stitch those areas. Try to use a spacing of about six or seven stitches per inch. When finished, you have actually now made your “off the rack” shirt much more authentic. Those with a sharp eye will also note that this is the stitch often used around the perimeter of “issue” blankets.

    If these instructions are confusing to you, it is because sewing by hand is largely a lost art in modern times. Most of us sew well enough to put a cover on our canteens, but perhaps would not classify themselves as quite ready to perform this kind of handiwork on an off the rack shirt, much less tailor an entire period correct garment. With an eye always towards looking for a good “off the rack” reproduction civilian shirt, The Watchdog paid a visit at an event to Bill Lomas at E. J. Thomas Mercantile, maker of some of the finest hand sewn leather accoutrements available today. If there are any better, this reviewer has not been made aware of them, and I have been looking. If an item is sold at E. J. Thomas, the purchaser can be assured it is fastidiously copied from an original artifact down to the smallest details. The shirts for sale there were no exception and they were very well done with accurate cut and details and a good choice of fabrics. The top stitching was large and well sewn embroidery--obvious by most period standards, but neater than other available reproductions. (8) Our only criticisms, or an observation really, it that the tailor might consider using white four-hole buttons on their print shirt instead of black two-hole buttons. Also, one shirt featured square side gussets which were somewhat unique and we wondered aloud if they were copied from an original or represented a bit of interesting improvisation? The good folks at E. J. Thomas are currently revamping their web site and they are working to produce a page to focus on clothing products with detailed photos and a listing of in-stock items.

    The tailor used by E. J. Thomas Mercantile, one Mr. Ross Lamoreaux, of Tampa, Florida produces garments exclusively for them, utilizing an "in-stock only" approach, but has indicated they will entertain custom orders from time to time. The usual turn around time for a typical custom order is standing at two to three months. As of late they have been extremely busy. “For a little background about myself”, the shirt maker tells us, “I am completely self taught over the last six years, utilizing several resources from written word, visual examination of original items when available to me, and the advice/critique of friends in the know to include Joe Blount of J. Blount Clothiers, holder of the patterns of Joe Covais and Steve Abolt of Allegheny Arsenal, one of the best tailors of pre-CW clothing I have ever seen. My best resource for shirts has been Thoughts on Men's Shirts, but I don't limit myself to that research. I am a (re)enactor first and a tailor second, so as such I'm not a business-man, but I have aligned myself with like-minded living historians like E. J. Thomas—and I pride myself on my personal impressions, whether military or civilian, so I try to carry that over to every garment I make.” The Watchdog says “mission accomplished.”

    Item #1 is a white linen civilian shirt with embroidery on the placket, collar, pockets, and cuffs with antique glass buttons. This shirt is entirely hand sewn and is based on no particular original, just a period square cut design. The retail price of this shirt is $175.

    Item #2 is a red on tan checked civilian shirt, half lined in cotton, banded collar with pockets and antique glass buttons. It is based upon a shirt in Thoughts on Men’s Shirts, but takes small liberties such as this one is an all hand sewn square cut, as the one in the book was a French cut. The retail price of this shirt is $130.

    Item #3 is a very basic calico print square cut shirt, with material that is probably more 1830's or 40's, but common enough to qualify for the Civil War period. The material was procured from, I believe, the 96th District Storehouse (one of my best sources for material) and is also entirely hand sewn with glass buttons.

    While the E. J. Thomas Mercantile products specializes in hand sewing, as the majority of their garments are hand sewn, Ross Lamoreaux can also do machine sewn garments and can currently produce over-shirts, coats, drawers, haversacks, knapsacks, cravats, housewives, flags, tents to include shelter tents and common tents, as well as children's clothing. Currently they use non-proprietary patterns and honor those who have put forth the effort to research and draft functional patterns hence they will not make items for sale using these copyrighted patterns. The majority of the shirts are made without patterns, and other garments are made from common patterns or by custom measurement.

    For men's shirts, the retail prices start at around $95 and can go up to $200 for detailed work such as embroidery, tape trim, etc. E. J. Thomas advises that the best sellers as of late have been wool overshirts (around $125), Federal issue domet flannel shirts (around $140), and common square-cut civilian shirts (between $95 to $125). They are available through E. J. Thomas Mercantile. After inspecting these products in detail, this reviewer is indulging himself in a civilian shirt, currently being custom sewn as this goes to press.

    We are fortunate to have craftsmen possessing this level of skill producing products of this high grade available for use in the hobby.



    NOTES:
    1. Leslie Jensen, “Confederate Issue Jackets, Part 1,” The Journal of the Company of Military Historians, 1989.
    2. William, Brown, Thoughts on Men’s Shirts 1750-1900 (Gettysburg: Thomas Publications, 1999).
    3. Thomas G. Shaw, “1860s Civilian Shirts,” The Watchdog, vol. 4, no. 4 (fall, 1996 ), 2.
    4. See Echoes of Glory (Confederate), 154–5. There are seven shirts and each one has a different collar. Pvt. Starr's is a dark blue wool collarless pullover shirt in contrast to the one below attributed to Pvt. Beam, (Twenty-eighth South Carolina Infantry) whose shirt is a white cotton with a square collar apparently made of the same material.
    5. Shaw, 1860s Civilian Shirts,” 3.
    6. John ZahariasThe Button Baron, 336 Baltimore Street, Gettysburg, Pennsylvania 17325. buttonbaron@earthlink.net and (717) 476-4631
    7. http:// www.embroidersguild.com/stitch/buttonhole.
    8. Contact E. J. Thomas Mercantile at http://www.ejtmercantile.com and info@ejtmercantile.com.









    Last edited by AZReenactor; 12-27-2007, 08:45 AM. Reason: added photos
    Craig L Barry
    Editor, The Watchdog, a non-profit 501[c]3
    Co-author (with David Burt) Suppliers to the Confederacy
    Author, The Civil War Musket: A Handbook for Historical Accuracy
    Member, Company of Military Historians

  • #2
    Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

    Craig,

    Excellent article! I'm glad to see Ross get his due (congrats, mate!).

    I do have a question about one sentence which might have been an oversight. It is from the 5th paragraph and reads:

    "Pockets were not sewn on most shirts, and not at all on the army-issued shirts."

    While all of my research agrees with the first portion of the sentence, I do see that the army issued contractor made garments, some of which did have pockets in them. I believe you're actually talking about the domet issue shirt, not all army-issued shirts. Still with (off the top of my head) 14,000,000 of these shirts issued, the general point is still valid, maybe just needing a bit of clarification. I support the goal of helping all re-enactors improve so I wouldn't like to see something get mis-printed that would give someone room to mis-speak when he didn't do as much research as others have.

    Cheers,

    Will Eichler
    Will Eichler

    Member, Company of Military Historians
    Saginaw City Light Infantry
    Hubbard Winsor Lodge #420
    Stony Creek Lodge #5

    Civil War Digital Digest
    http://civilwardigitaldigest.com/

    Historic Fort Wayne Coalition
    www.historicfortwaynecoalition.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

      Outstanding...We will make that correction! Thanks for the input. How about "rarely"?
      Craig L Barry
      Editor, The Watchdog, a non-profit 501[c]3
      Co-author (with David Burt) Suppliers to the Confederacy
      Author, The Civil War Musket: A Handbook for Historical Accuracy
      Member, Company of Military Historians

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

        Craig,

        I've read the article draft again and have let it stew in my head and, for my money, this article is about civilian shirts. I'd recommend letting it be just that and not trying to serve too many masters with one article.

        To wit, I'd recommend the following:

        -Drop the second half of the sentence mentioned previously completely.

        -Only make passing reference to the military shirts. I'd replace the end of the first paragraph (after the sentence ending with the word "examine") with a sentence like, "However both of these garments are subjects best handled in other articles, written and unwritten."

        Your reference to the Domet flannel shirt from EJ at the end is fine, even in this case, as it refers to their items for sale, and this is a product review.

        However you choose to proceed, good luck! These are just the thoughts of one who didn't take the time to write an article for publication. I appreciate that you have.

        Best,

        Will
        Will Eichler

        Member, Company of Military Historians
        Saginaw City Light Infantry
        Hubbard Winsor Lodge #420
        Stony Creek Lodge #5

        Civil War Digital Digest
        http://civilwardigitaldigest.com/

        Historic Fort Wayne Coalition
        www.historicfortwaynecoalition.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

          Hallo!

          Yes, in the interest of 'brevity" and "clarity..."
          I would agree to amending the pocket comment (on the issue "M1851" domet flannel shirt type) as period photographs as well as such as the West Point Museum "contract variation" shirt would indicate that a single left breast pocket as well as paired breast pockets do appear on some soldiers making "army-issued" complex.

          Curt
          Curt Schmidt
          In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

          -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
          -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
          -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
          -Vastly Ignorant
          -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

            We are going to get some pictures posted here shortly, with a little help that is...
            Craig L Barry
            Editor, The Watchdog, a non-profit 501[c]3
            Co-author (with David Burt) Suppliers to the Confederacy
            Author, The Civil War Musket: A Handbook for Historical Accuracy
            Member, Company of Military Historians

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

              Craig,

              Nice continuation to the thread. Great to see the examples!

              Thanks.

              Will
              Will Eichler

              Member, Company of Military Historians
              Saginaw City Light Infantry
              Hubbard Winsor Lodge #420
              Stony Creek Lodge #5

              Civil War Digital Digest
              http://civilwardigitaldigest.com/

              Historic Fort Wayne Coalition
              www.historicfortwaynecoalition.com

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                Let me thank Forum Mod Troy Groves (AZReenactor) for the technical assist in getting the pic posted. Agree, a picture is worth a thousand words. These are excellent shirts. The one I have on order to spoil myself is like the red one.
                Craig L Barry
                Editor, The Watchdog, a non-profit 501[c]3
                Co-author (with David Burt) Suppliers to the Confederacy
                Author, The Civil War Musket: A Handbook for Historical Accuracy
                Member, Company of Military Historians

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                  I have just purchased the red overshirt made by Ross from EJT, I will write an AAR once it gets here. I'm just mad that I waited and got pipped on the stripped shirt.

                  Edward Parrott
                  Edward Anthony Parrott
                  "Humbug"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                    Mr. Barry,

                    I found your review very interesting. I would like to add comments on several points.

                    “Go with glass, bone, shell, metal, porcelain, two or four holed solids or mother of pearl…. (6) Glass buttons are nice because you can match them to the fabric”

                    I am thinking when you use the term “glass” you are referring to what button collectors call “Small Chinas”*. The white buttons on the top and bottom pictured shirts fall into this category. Perhaps the most familiar small china is the calico button. These are the ones with decorative patterns to match calico fabric. At first made in France and England, in America, Charles Cartledge & Co of Greenpoint, Long Island began making calico buttons in July 1848. There are almost 600 different patterns of calico buttons. They range in size from less than ¼ “ to 1 ¼” and in shape are identified as dish, saucer or inkwell.

                    Glass buttons are broadly grouped into two classes: #1 clear & colored glass and #2 black glass. Some types of clear/colored glass include; Blown, Coronets, Crackle, Embedded Trim, Frosted Decoration, Inset Trim, Kaleidoscopes, Lacy, Mirrors etc. etc. Black glass buttons usually had inset designs or overlay trim. While black glass buttons were extremely popular, I personally can not say I have seen them on a man’s shirt. In the same vein, metal buttons are certainly correct for our period but again I have never seen them on men’s shirts.

                    “Those with a sharp eye will also note that this is the stitch often used around the perimeter of “issue” blankets.”

                    While the buttonhole and blanket stitch are similar, they are two different stitches. “The buttonhole stitch belongs to a group of stitches known as knotted stitches…..The blanket stitch, although closely related to the buttonhole stitch, belongs to the group of stitches known as looped stitches”** The web site this quote is from has nice illustrations of the different stitches.

                    Sincerely,
                    Beth Crabb

                    * The Collector’s Encyclopedia of Buttons by Sally C. Luscomb, Antique & Collectible Buttons Identification & Value by Debra J. Wisniewski

                    ** http://www.quilttownusa.com/Town_Hall/dfexperts.htm
                    [FONT="Book Antiqua"][B][SIZE="4"][I]Beth Crabb[/I][/SIZE][/B][/FONT]

                    [SIZE="4"]Ezra Barnhouse Goods[/SIZE]

                    [url]www.ezrabarnhousegoods.com[/url]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                      The Confederate government (and states) issued shirts in some quantity; however, there are few if any surviving specimens available to examine. There are those who state that there were no Confederate supplied shirts, however a close look at Confederate records, including those for the least prosperous year of the war, reveal some startling satistics. "For example, during the last six months of 1864 and including to 31 January 1865, The Army of Northern Virginia alone was issued the following: 157,727 cotton shirts, 170,139 pairs of drawers, 21,063 FLANNEL shirts, 74,851 blankets.
                      I wanted to start a new thread about CS issue shirts being made out of wool flannel, but after reading the above quote, I'll just ask here.

                      Does anyone know what these flannel shirts from the above quote looked like? What type of pattern was used? Was it the same as the CS cotton issue shirt or something different? I'm guessing these shirts were not overshirts.

                      Can the CS issue shirt pattern that we as "living historians" know today, be produced using wool flannel instead of cotton? I realize there can be more than one pattern, but I'm just trying to get an idea of CS issue shirts being made out of wool, and what pattern was used.

                      I also realize I'm "overthinking" this issue, but anymore information about my questions would be appreciated.

                      Thanks,
                      [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                      Aaron Schwieterman
                      Cincinnati

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                        Hello gents,

                        Don't mean to bring up an old thread, but better that than starting a new one.

                        "In terms of fabrics, white cotton was the most common shirt material. Printed fabrics tended to have white backgrounds with small designs in one or two colors."

                        There was this mention of printed fabrics, something often seen today, but based on this quote I was wondering if the plethora of printed fabrics we see in either side of the hobby today are all truly period correct? What constitutes period correct with printed fabrics? Are the printed cotton shirting materials found at local fabric stores really period?

                        Just hoping to get a few questions answered!

                        Thanks all,

                        Bridger
                        Bridger Zadina
                        Fighting Boys Mess

                        Proud Descendant of:


                        Franklin R. Brookshire
                        2nd Lt. Co. H, 2nd Mississippi
                        Killed in Action at Gains Mill, Virginia

                        James B. Brookshire
                        Pvt. Co. H, 2nd Mississippi
                        Wounded at Sharpsburg, Maryland

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                          Some manufacturers that cater to quilters (and sell their products at your local fabric store) will often base their patterns upon, or copy them from, 19th Century designs. Most do not. Check out a couple of the categories on www.reproductionfabrics.com for some examples of the former. Then read through some of the threads on Elizabeth Stewart Clark's The Sewing Academy forum (http://thesewingacademy.org/) to see which ones might be proper for a shirt. To whet your appetite, attached are a couple close-ups of printed cottons found on shirts with Confederate provenance.

                          -Craig Schneider
                          Attached Files
                          Craig Schneider

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: "A Few Thoughts on Men's Shirts"

                            Great advice from Craig. I'll also mention to look for the book "Dating Fabric". It was designed with the quilter in mind, but offers hundreds of examples of material from different periods by decade. Its no the "be all, end all", but its a good base guide when looking at colors and prints.
                            Ross L. Lamoreaux
                            rlamoreaux@tampabayhistorycenter.org


                            "...and if profanity was included in the course of study at West Point, I am sure that the Army of the Cumberland had their share of the prize scholars in this branch." - B.F. Scribner, 38th Indiana Vol Inf

                            Comment

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