Osnaburg linings

[dirtyshirt]

All,
I've been out of the game for a bit, and noticed that our reputable makers are using a what I assume to a different quality/type of osnaburg. It seems stiffer and more tightly woven compared to FHW osnaburg. What is the consensus on this? What is desired more today by consumers? If this has been discussed already-my apologies.

V/R
Brandon Jolly

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Osnaburg linings

Brandon,

For what it's worth I currently find myself using four different types of osnaberg depending on the project.

For CS issue shirts I use a lighter weight FHW osnaberg purchased at their sale this past summer. This is your standard 2/2 weave with fairly fine yarns, but it is very different from what they used to offer.

For CS frocks I use some of the over-the-counter lightweight osnaberg with those pesky cotton husk inclusions. I prefer this for frocks because it cuts down on the overall weight of the coat which with another lining might otherwise be several pounds. I also enjoy this material because it is plain woven and once washed has a good feel to it.

For all other CS garments I primarily prefer Ben Tart's osnaberg. This is a little stiffer 2/2 weave on the singles warp, but has a good appearance and once pre-shrunk performs nicely (though you have to be very careful in your method of pre-shrinking it, otherwise it will wrinkle and you'll never get them out!) This has become my staple lining and is very durable.

Finally, for special projects and custom orders I will occasionally line things in original grain sacks. This seems to be the only way to get large weave or large yarn osnaberg anymore. Of course you have to deal with the inevitable stains, holes, and other problems (not to mention labels), but if cut carefully you can get a killer lining from an old sack.


Hope this helps!


Best,

[Vicksburg Dave]

Re: Osnaburg linings

Sounds like Ben Tart's fabric, which feels like just a step below canvas before it is washed a few times.

[edwardwatson]

Re: Osnaburg linings

Dan,

Can you share the secrets of pre-shrinking Tart osnaburg? I'm getting ready to line a frock with some.

[Vicksburg Dave]

Re: Osnaburg linings

While we are on the topic of linings, what is a proper fabric to line officer's frocks and shells?

Thanks,

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Osnaburg linings

Edward,

No real secret. I've had the best luck with hanging it out on a line on a sunny day and saturating it with a hose. The mist setting on your nozzle is best, (you don't want to use high pressure or you'll have streaks.) Let the sun dry it and it will shrink. Repeat one or two times more and you will reduce the amount of post-production shrinkage to less than 2%.

Hope this helps!


Best,

Dan

[edwardwatson]

Re: Osnaburg linings

Thank you! I'll be misting my fabric in the morning before heading off to work. The wife will wonder if I've lost my mind.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Osnaburg linings

Dan's procedure is pretty good. If you put your osnaburg in the washer and dryer, be sure you put a line of stitching along the cut edges, or you will get a BUNCH of unravelling.

For what its worth, I've always been a fan of the stuff from County Cloth.

[Dan Wambaugh]

Re: Osnaburg linings

John,

I suggest the method above specifically for Ben's osnaberg. I've found that if you put it in the washer and dryer to shrink it, you will have wrinkles that even my commercial iron set on "nuke" cannot even budge. Then you end up with something that looks like the "crinkle" cloth from Jo Ann's.


Best,

Dan

[dirtyshirt]

Re: Osnaburg linings

I ordered a kit from Ben, and it had his osnaburg obviously. I was unsure about whether or not it had been pre shrunk, but I can't imagine he would have cut a kit out without the fabric being pre-shrunk. Thanks for the info Dan.

Does anyone know how FHW goes about selling material anymore? I had heard he still does CW fabrics, but only in bulk.

Thanks!
Brandon Jolly

[Richmond Depot]

Re: Osnaburg linings

The method for preshrinking Ben's osnaburg that I prefer is to first soak the fabric over night in a large wash tub. This allows the water to thoroughly saturate into the pores and fibers.

Once the fabric is thoroughly saturated, I then hang dry it. Dry time is usually no more than a day or so.

I have tried using a hose as Dan reccomends, however, I never seem to thoroughly saturate the fabric with this method and I don't really have the time available ( or the patience) to stand with it.

Best,