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Found this in the February 22, 1862 edition of the North American. An interesting look into the inspection process in place in Philadelphia, and also indicative that the north was importing English kersey!
"...cloth is weighed as a preliminary to inspection. Every piece of cloth is subjected to this process, and every piece must weigh eleven ounces to the single width yard, or it is rejected, be its quality what it may. The building is filled with goods, from top to bottom. The upper story is filled with shirts and drawers, occupying every inch of room from floor to ceiling. The two lower floors are filled with cloths received for inspection, the next two with goods that have passed muster..."
"The principal contributors to the stock on hand are mills in the eastern States, and New York importers also have sent in English kerseys. Some of the latter are very handsomely finished, but the Conshohocken mills by far transcend in excellence all other goods that have been offered."
"...there are now forty-five industrious men working, from seven A.M. until sunset, in preparing material to clothe the army."
"The work of inspecting cloth is one requiring great judgment. None but a competent clothier, like Mr. [S.S.] Kelly, could perform the duties of the position. The color is first tested, then the quality of the warp and filling, then the width, and last of all the weight. The latter is determined by means of a newly invented scale, got up to meet the exigency. A piece of cloth is placed upon the steelyard, a weight is drawn out to the mark on the beam indicating the number of yards in the piece, and the weight in ounces of each yard is instantaneously determined. If it stand the ordeal in every respect, it is passed, and the name of the owner then ascertained. If below the standard in any particular, it is rejected, and the owner notified to cart away the goods."
"Just now little or nothing is rejected. Manufacturers are posted as to the standards, and nothing is sent excepting its standard is up to the required mark. With well known goods, like those of the Conshohocken Mills, inspection is a light task. A fragment is rent into shreds, and its material tested by examination, the color speaks for itself, and as no shoddy or kindred material is used in the mills there is nothing to do but to pass it."
"...cloth is weighed as a preliminary to inspection. Every piece of cloth is subjected to this process, and every piece must weigh eleven ounces to the single width yard, or it is rejected, be its quality what it may. The building is filled with goods, from top to bottom. The upper story is filled with shirts and drawers, occupying every inch of room from floor to ceiling. The two lower floors are filled with cloths received for inspection, the next two with goods that have passed muster..."
"The principal contributors to the stock on hand are mills in the eastern States, and New York importers also have sent in English kerseys. Some of the latter are very handsomely finished, but the Conshohocken mills by far transcend in excellence all other goods that have been offered."
"...there are now forty-five industrious men working, from seven A.M. until sunset, in preparing material to clothe the army."
"The work of inspecting cloth is one requiring great judgment. None but a competent clothier, like Mr. [S.S.] Kelly, could perform the duties of the position. The color is first tested, then the quality of the warp and filling, then the width, and last of all the weight. The latter is determined by means of a newly invented scale, got up to meet the exigency. A piece of cloth is placed upon the steelyard, a weight is drawn out to the mark on the beam indicating the number of yards in the piece, and the weight in ounces of each yard is instantaneously determined. If it stand the ordeal in every respect, it is passed, and the name of the owner then ascertained. If below the standard in any particular, it is rejected, and the owner notified to cart away the goods."
"Just now little or nothing is rejected. Manufacturers are posted as to the standards, and nothing is sent excepting its standard is up to the required mark. With well known goods, like those of the Conshohocken Mills, inspection is a light task. A fragment is rent into shreds, and its material tested by examination, the color speaks for itself, and as no shoddy or kindred material is used in the mills there is nothing to do but to pass it."