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Here is a copy of the uniform regulations of the 1861 NC Civil War uniform.
The following Uniform Dress and Equipment regulations were recommended by a Board of officers appointed by the Governor under Special Order No. 1. The Board consisted of: Col. J.A.J. Bradford, Corps of Ord’nce and Engineers, Col. Geo. B. Anderson, 4th Infantry, Lieut. Col. R.H. Riddick, Ass’t Adjutant General, Captain A.M. Scales, 3rd Reg’t. of N.C. Volunteers, and Captain John W. Cameron, Ass’t Quarter Master. The recommendations were adopted by the State of North Carolina in Raleigh on May 27th, 1861.
UNIFORM COAT.
For Commissioned Officers.—All officers shall wear a frock coat, the skirt to extend from two-thirds to three-fourths the distance from the top of the hips to the bend of the knee, single breasted for Captains and Lieutenants, double breasted for all other grades—of North Carolina grey cloth for all Regimental Officers—of dark blue cloth for General Officers and Officers of the General Staff.
For a Major General.—Two rows of buttons on the breast, nine in each row, placed in threes; the distance between each row, five and one-half inches at top and three and one-half inches at bottom, stand up collar, to rise no higher than to permit the chin to turn freely over it, to hook in front at the bottom and slope thence upward and backward at an angle of thirty degrees on each side, cuffs two and a half inches deep, to go round the sleeves parallel with the lower edge and to button with three small buttons at the under seam; pockets in the fold of the skirts with one button at the hip and one at the end of each pocket, making four buttons in the back and skirt of the coat, the hip buttons to range with the lowest button on the breast; lining of the coat, black.
For a Brigadier General.—The same as for a Major General, excpt that thee will be only eight buttons in each row on the breast, placed in pairs.
For a Colonel.—The same as for a Brigadier General, except that there will be only seven buttons in each row on the breast, placed at equal distrances.
For a Lieutenant Colonel.—Same as for a Colonel.
For a Major.—Same as for a Colonel.
For a Captain.—Same as for a Colonel, except that there will be only one row of nine buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances.
For a 1st Lieutenant.—Same as for a Captain.
For a 2nd Lieutenant.—Same as for a Captain.
For Enlisted Man.—The uniform coat for all enlisted men shall be a sack coat of gray cloth (of North Carolina manufacture) extending half way down the thigh, and made loose, with falling collar, and an inside pocket on each breast, six coat cuttons down the front, commencing at the throat; a strip of cloth sewed on each shoulder, extending from the base of the collar to the shoulder seam, an inch and a half wide at the base of the collar, and two inches wide at the shoulder; this strip will be of black cloth for Infantry, red for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry.
For a Musician.—The same as for other enlisted men, with the addition of a bar of braid, horizontal to each button—black for Infantry—ret for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry.
BUTTONS.
North Carolina Gilt Buttons.
TROWSERS.
For Commissioned Officers.—The uniform trowsers for all general Officers and Officers of the general staff will be of dark blue cloth, made loose and reinforced for all mounted officers, with buff cord or welt, down the outer seam.
The uniform trowsers for Regimental Officers will be of North Carolina gray cloth, made loose and reinforced for all mounted officers, with cord or welt down the outer seam—of black for Infantry, red for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry.
For Enlisted Men.—The uniform trowsers for enlisted men will be of North Carolina gray cloth, made loose, reinforced for mounted men, with a stripe of cloth down and over the outer seams. The stripe will be black for Infantry, red for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry— "one inch wide for non-commissioned staff of regiments and sergeants"— "three-fourths of an inch wide for corporals" and " one half inch wide for privates. "
HAT.
For Commissioned Officers.—For General Officers and officers of the General Staff, a black felt hat of light material; the body of the hat one and one half inch less in circumference as thte crown than at the base, to be looped at the right side, with a large gilt button of the North Carolina pattern, and a gilt ornament in front, representing the Coat of Arms of North Carolina, according to pattern in Quarter Master General’s Office.
For all other Commissioned Officers.—A gray felt hat of light material; the body of the hat one and one half inch less in circumference at the crown than at the base, looped up on the right side, with a large gilt button of North Carolina pattern, with gilt ornament in front, as follows, viz:
For Officers of Infantry.—A Bugle, with number of Regiment.
For Officers of Artillery.—Cross cannons with number of Regiment.
For Officers of Cavalry.—Cross Sabres, with number of Regiment.
For Enlisted Men.—A gray hat of the same pattern as for officers, looped in like manner, with the "letter of the Company and number of Regiment of brass in front". The hat band being red for Artillery, yellow for Cavalry and black for Infantry.
Officers, when off duty or on fatigue duty may wear the French forage cap, according to pattern in Quarter Master General’s office.
Enlisted Men.—Gray, according to pattern.
CRAVAT OR STOCK.
For all Officers.—Black, when a cravat is worn, the tie not to be visible at the opening of the collar.
BOOTS AND SHOES.
For all Enlisted Men.—Plain leather boot for mounted men, and high quartered, thick soled shoes for men not mounted.
SPURS.
For all Mounted Officers.—Yellow metal or gilt spurs.
For all Mounted Enlisted Men.—Yellow metal, according to pattern in Quarter Master General’s office.
GLOVES.
For all Mounted Officers.—Buff or white.
For all Enlisted Men.—White Cotton.
SASH.
For all Officers.—Crimson silk, to go twice round the waist and to tie behind the left hip, pendant part not to extend more than eighteen inches below the tie, to be worn only on dress occasions.
For Non Commissioned Staff of Regiments and First Sergeants of Companies.—Red worsted; to be worn as by Commissioned Officers.
The sash will be worn by "Officers of the day," across the body, scarf-fashion, from the right shoulder to the left side, instead of around the waist, tying behind the left hop, as prescribed above.
SWORD BELT.
For all Officers.—A waist belt of black leather, not less than one and one half inches or more than two inches wide, to be worn over the sash; the sword to be suspended from it by slings of the same material as the belt, with a hook attached to the belt, upon which the sword may be hung; gilt, rectangle sword belt plate with North Carolina Coat of Arms on it.
For Non-Commissioned Officers.—Same belt of plain black leather—belt plate after pattern in Quarter Master General’s Office.
SWORD AND SCABBARD.
For General Officers and Officers of the Staff.—The sword of the pattern adopted by the United States service for Field Officers, April 2, 1850, without letters U.S.
For Mounted Artillery Officers and Cavalry Officers.—The Sabre and Scabbard, the same as the United States service for Cavalry officers,
For all Foot Officers.—Sword of the U.S. service of April 9, 1850, without letters, U.S.
For Non-Commissioned Officers.—Of the same pattern in the Quarter Master General’s office.
SWORD KNOT.
For all Officers.—Gold lace strap, with gold bullion tassel.
For Non-Commissioned Officers, and Privates Mounted.—According to pattern in Quarter Master General’s office.
EPAULETTS.
Epauletts will be worn by General Officers and Officers of the General Staff, of the same description as those worn by the officers of the U.S. Army, of corresponding grade.
SHOULDER STRAPS.
The shoulder straps will be of cloth one and three fourth inches wide by four inches long, broidered with an embroidery of gold one-fourth of an inch wide. The cloth for the straps will be, for General Officers and Officers of the General Staff, buff; for Artillery, red; for Cavalry, yellow; for Infantry, black. On the cloth within the strap will be embroidered:
For a Major General.—Two silver stars of five rays.
For a Brigadier General.—One silver star of five rays.
For a Colonel.—One silver embroidered eagle.
For a Lieutenant Colonel.—A silver embroidered leaf at each end.
For a Major.—A gold embroidered leaf at each end.
For a Captain.—Two gold embroidered bars at each end.
For 1st Lieutenant.—One gold embroidered bar at each end.
For a 2nd Lieutenant.—The straps will contain nothing.
CHEVRONS.
The rank of non-commissioned officers will be marked by Chevrons on both sleeves of the uniform coat, above the elbow, of worsted binding, one half inch wide, of the same color as the stripe on the seam of the trowsers, points down as follows viz:
For a Sergeant Major.—Three bars and an arc.
For a Regimental Quarter Master Sergeant.—Three bars and a tie.
For a Commissary Sergeant.—Three bars and a star.
For a First Sergeant.—Three bars and a lozenge.
For a Quarter Master and Common Sergeant.—Three bars.
For a Corporal.—Two bars.
Articles not in accordance with the above prescribed uniform, but already contracted for, or furnished to troops, may be used until exhausted.
The articles prescribed above for enlisted men, are also prescribed for men of corresponding grades in the volunteer service.
On February 10, 1862, Assistant Quartermaster Major John Devereux wrote to a firm (Garrett) with which the state of NC had contracts, "I will be obliged ...if you will cut no more coats but cut all jackets, a sample will be sent you in a few days." Hence, the sack coat was modified by removing the skirts and turning it into a six button jacket. The falling collar and shoulder trim were retained on this garment. The next stage in the modification of the state jacket occured during the spring/summer of 1862 with the elimination of the colored shoulder trim and the replacement of the fall collar by a more orthodox standing collar, making a "second pattern" plain six-button jacket. This type was issued until the end of the war. Thus, between September 30, 1861 and September 30, 1862, Garrett had manufactured for the NC QM department, the following: 5,979 overcoats, 49,093 jackets, 5,954 coats, 68,364 pants, 61,275 shirts.
Regarding headgear, General officers and staff were originally prescribed black felt hats, whilst Commissioned officers and other ranks were to acquire gray felt hats with branch of service insignia. Also, forage caps were to be worn by all ranks "when off duty or on fatigue duty". Those for officers were to be of the "French" pattern, while enlisted men's were gray. During the year ending September 30, 1862, slightly fewer than 9,000 hats were issued, compared with 60,000 caps. Supply problems inevitably affected the type and color of both hats and caps available. Some blue caps were supplied via Marshall Parks, North Carolina's purchasing agent in Norfolk, Virginia, under the state's first cap contract. On June 1, 1861, QM General Lawrence O'Bryan Branch wrote to Parks, "If gray can be had, please require the maker to furnish only that color. I will not object to different shades of gray, provided they are packed in different cases so that my assistants can put an entire Regiment in the same shade"ť. Whatever the color, Parks acquired caps from W.H.S. Lovitt of Virginia. Some brown caps may have also been issued in early 1862, since Deveraux wrote to a supplier on January 17, instructing him to "cut no more caps out of the brown kerseys sent you. Gen. Martin objects to a variegated color". While infantry were supplied with gray caps with black bands and plain gray caps, red and yellow bands were put on the caps supplied to the 1st Artillery and Second Cavalry, judging by Devereux's instructions to another contractor in December 1861 to "bind 1,000 caps with red for artillery", and in February 1862, to send "1,000 caps bound with yellow for cavalry". Jackets way outnumber coats. Also, it seems that concerning headgear it's either a gray kepi, possibly brown, with or without a black band, or a "French" pattern or "McDowell" type of gray or blue for the earliest NC impression
Brad Becker
The following Uniform Dress and Equipment regulations were recommended by a Board of officers appointed by the Governor under Special Order No. 1. The Board consisted of: Col. J.A.J. Bradford, Corps of Ord’nce and Engineers, Col. Geo. B. Anderson, 4th Infantry, Lieut. Col. R.H. Riddick, Ass’t Adjutant General, Captain A.M. Scales, 3rd Reg’t. of N.C. Volunteers, and Captain John W. Cameron, Ass’t Quarter Master. The recommendations were adopted by the State of North Carolina in Raleigh on May 27th, 1861.
UNIFORM COAT.
For Commissioned Officers.—All officers shall wear a frock coat, the skirt to extend from two-thirds to three-fourths the distance from the top of the hips to the bend of the knee, single breasted for Captains and Lieutenants, double breasted for all other grades—of North Carolina grey cloth for all Regimental Officers—of dark blue cloth for General Officers and Officers of the General Staff.
For a Major General.—Two rows of buttons on the breast, nine in each row, placed in threes; the distance between each row, five and one-half inches at top and three and one-half inches at bottom, stand up collar, to rise no higher than to permit the chin to turn freely over it, to hook in front at the bottom and slope thence upward and backward at an angle of thirty degrees on each side, cuffs two and a half inches deep, to go round the sleeves parallel with the lower edge and to button with three small buttons at the under seam; pockets in the fold of the skirts with one button at the hip and one at the end of each pocket, making four buttons in the back and skirt of the coat, the hip buttons to range with the lowest button on the breast; lining of the coat, black.
For a Brigadier General.—The same as for a Major General, excpt that thee will be only eight buttons in each row on the breast, placed in pairs.
For a Colonel.—The same as for a Brigadier General, except that there will be only seven buttons in each row on the breast, placed at equal distrances.
For a Lieutenant Colonel.—Same as for a Colonel.
For a Major.—Same as for a Colonel.
For a Captain.—Same as for a Colonel, except that there will be only one row of nine buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances.
For a 1st Lieutenant.—Same as for a Captain.
For a 2nd Lieutenant.—Same as for a Captain.
For Enlisted Man.—The uniform coat for all enlisted men shall be a sack coat of gray cloth (of North Carolina manufacture) extending half way down the thigh, and made loose, with falling collar, and an inside pocket on each breast, six coat cuttons down the front, commencing at the throat; a strip of cloth sewed on each shoulder, extending from the base of the collar to the shoulder seam, an inch and a half wide at the base of the collar, and two inches wide at the shoulder; this strip will be of black cloth for Infantry, red for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry.
For a Musician.—The same as for other enlisted men, with the addition of a bar of braid, horizontal to each button—black for Infantry—ret for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry.
BUTTONS.
North Carolina Gilt Buttons.
TROWSERS.
For Commissioned Officers.—The uniform trowsers for all general Officers and Officers of the general staff will be of dark blue cloth, made loose and reinforced for all mounted officers, with buff cord or welt, down the outer seam.
The uniform trowsers for Regimental Officers will be of North Carolina gray cloth, made loose and reinforced for all mounted officers, with cord or welt down the outer seam—of black for Infantry, red for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry.
For Enlisted Men.—The uniform trowsers for enlisted men will be of North Carolina gray cloth, made loose, reinforced for mounted men, with a stripe of cloth down and over the outer seams. The stripe will be black for Infantry, red for Artillery and yellow for Cavalry— "one inch wide for non-commissioned staff of regiments and sergeants"— "three-fourths of an inch wide for corporals" and " one half inch wide for privates. "
HAT.
For Commissioned Officers.—For General Officers and officers of the General Staff, a black felt hat of light material; the body of the hat one and one half inch less in circumference as thte crown than at the base, to be looped at the right side, with a large gilt button of the North Carolina pattern, and a gilt ornament in front, representing the Coat of Arms of North Carolina, according to pattern in Quarter Master General’s Office.
For all other Commissioned Officers.—A gray felt hat of light material; the body of the hat one and one half inch less in circumference at the crown than at the base, looped up on the right side, with a large gilt button of North Carolina pattern, with gilt ornament in front, as follows, viz:
For Officers of Infantry.—A Bugle, with number of Regiment.
For Officers of Artillery.—Cross cannons with number of Regiment.
For Officers of Cavalry.—Cross Sabres, with number of Regiment.
For Enlisted Men.—A gray hat of the same pattern as for officers, looped in like manner, with the "letter of the Company and number of Regiment of brass in front". The hat band being red for Artillery, yellow for Cavalry and black for Infantry.
Officers, when off duty or on fatigue duty may wear the French forage cap, according to pattern in Quarter Master General’s office.
Enlisted Men.—Gray, according to pattern.
CRAVAT OR STOCK.
For all Officers.—Black, when a cravat is worn, the tie not to be visible at the opening of the collar.
BOOTS AND SHOES.
For all Enlisted Men.—Plain leather boot for mounted men, and high quartered, thick soled shoes for men not mounted.
SPURS.
For all Mounted Officers.—Yellow metal or gilt spurs.
For all Mounted Enlisted Men.—Yellow metal, according to pattern in Quarter Master General’s office.
GLOVES.
For all Mounted Officers.—Buff or white.
For all Enlisted Men.—White Cotton.
SASH.
For all Officers.—Crimson silk, to go twice round the waist and to tie behind the left hip, pendant part not to extend more than eighteen inches below the tie, to be worn only on dress occasions.
For Non Commissioned Staff of Regiments and First Sergeants of Companies.—Red worsted; to be worn as by Commissioned Officers.
The sash will be worn by "Officers of the day," across the body, scarf-fashion, from the right shoulder to the left side, instead of around the waist, tying behind the left hop, as prescribed above.
SWORD BELT.
For all Officers.—A waist belt of black leather, not less than one and one half inches or more than two inches wide, to be worn over the sash; the sword to be suspended from it by slings of the same material as the belt, with a hook attached to the belt, upon which the sword may be hung; gilt, rectangle sword belt plate with North Carolina Coat of Arms on it.
For Non-Commissioned Officers.—Same belt of plain black leather—belt plate after pattern in Quarter Master General’s Office.
SWORD AND SCABBARD.
For General Officers and Officers of the Staff.—The sword of the pattern adopted by the United States service for Field Officers, April 2, 1850, without letters U.S.
For Mounted Artillery Officers and Cavalry Officers.—The Sabre and Scabbard, the same as the United States service for Cavalry officers,
For all Foot Officers.—Sword of the U.S. service of April 9, 1850, without letters, U.S.
For Non-Commissioned Officers.—Of the same pattern in the Quarter Master General’s office.
SWORD KNOT.
For all Officers.—Gold lace strap, with gold bullion tassel.
For Non-Commissioned Officers, and Privates Mounted.—According to pattern in Quarter Master General’s office.
EPAULETTS.
Epauletts will be worn by General Officers and Officers of the General Staff, of the same description as those worn by the officers of the U.S. Army, of corresponding grade.
SHOULDER STRAPS.
The shoulder straps will be of cloth one and three fourth inches wide by four inches long, broidered with an embroidery of gold one-fourth of an inch wide. The cloth for the straps will be, for General Officers and Officers of the General Staff, buff; for Artillery, red; for Cavalry, yellow; for Infantry, black. On the cloth within the strap will be embroidered:
For a Major General.—Two silver stars of five rays.
For a Brigadier General.—One silver star of five rays.
For a Colonel.—One silver embroidered eagle.
For a Lieutenant Colonel.—A silver embroidered leaf at each end.
For a Major.—A gold embroidered leaf at each end.
For a Captain.—Two gold embroidered bars at each end.
For 1st Lieutenant.—One gold embroidered bar at each end.
For a 2nd Lieutenant.—The straps will contain nothing.
CHEVRONS.
The rank of non-commissioned officers will be marked by Chevrons on both sleeves of the uniform coat, above the elbow, of worsted binding, one half inch wide, of the same color as the stripe on the seam of the trowsers, points down as follows viz:
For a Sergeant Major.—Three bars and an arc.
For a Regimental Quarter Master Sergeant.—Three bars and a tie.
For a Commissary Sergeant.—Three bars and a star.
For a First Sergeant.—Three bars and a lozenge.
For a Quarter Master and Common Sergeant.—Three bars.
For a Corporal.—Two bars.
Articles not in accordance with the above prescribed uniform, but already contracted for, or furnished to troops, may be used until exhausted.
The articles prescribed above for enlisted men, are also prescribed for men of corresponding grades in the volunteer service.
On February 10, 1862, Assistant Quartermaster Major John Devereux wrote to a firm (Garrett) with which the state of NC had contracts, "I will be obliged ...if you will cut no more coats but cut all jackets, a sample will be sent you in a few days." Hence, the sack coat was modified by removing the skirts and turning it into a six button jacket. The falling collar and shoulder trim were retained on this garment. The next stage in the modification of the state jacket occured during the spring/summer of 1862 with the elimination of the colored shoulder trim and the replacement of the fall collar by a more orthodox standing collar, making a "second pattern" plain six-button jacket. This type was issued until the end of the war. Thus, between September 30, 1861 and September 30, 1862, Garrett had manufactured for the NC QM department, the following: 5,979 overcoats, 49,093 jackets, 5,954 coats, 68,364 pants, 61,275 shirts.
Regarding headgear, General officers and staff were originally prescribed black felt hats, whilst Commissioned officers and other ranks were to acquire gray felt hats with branch of service insignia. Also, forage caps were to be worn by all ranks "when off duty or on fatigue duty". Those for officers were to be of the "French" pattern, while enlisted men's were gray. During the year ending September 30, 1862, slightly fewer than 9,000 hats were issued, compared with 60,000 caps. Supply problems inevitably affected the type and color of both hats and caps available. Some blue caps were supplied via Marshall Parks, North Carolina's purchasing agent in Norfolk, Virginia, under the state's first cap contract. On June 1, 1861, QM General Lawrence O'Bryan Branch wrote to Parks, "If gray can be had, please require the maker to furnish only that color. I will not object to different shades of gray, provided they are packed in different cases so that my assistants can put an entire Regiment in the same shade"ť. Whatever the color, Parks acquired caps from W.H.S. Lovitt of Virginia. Some brown caps may have also been issued in early 1862, since Deveraux wrote to a supplier on January 17, instructing him to "cut no more caps out of the brown kerseys sent you. Gen. Martin objects to a variegated color". While infantry were supplied with gray caps with black bands and plain gray caps, red and yellow bands were put on the caps supplied to the 1st Artillery and Second Cavalry, judging by Devereux's instructions to another contractor in December 1861 to "bind 1,000 caps with red for artillery", and in February 1862, to send "1,000 caps bound with yellow for cavalry". Jackets way outnumber coats. Also, it seems that concerning headgear it's either a gray kepi, possibly brown, with or without a black band, or a "French" pattern or "McDowell" type of gray or blue for the earliest NC impression
Brad Becker