Re: Drum
Justin,
It appears that you have a couple of concerns about what you want to buy. It really boils down to this: Do you want to be authentic? Or, do you just want a drum that looks OK?
There are only three drum makers, that I know of, who will actually bend a piece of wood as the processed call for. They are Cooperman, if you ask, George Carroll, and Jim Smith. Cooperman will be more than happy to do whatever you'd like, as long as you have the money. They are a bit pricey, but will last a long time. George Carroll steam bends all of his shells that I'm aware of. And Jim Smith makes a superb reproduction, but is almost impossible to get a hold of.
I would call Cooperman and ask for Jim Ellis. You want to make sure that the seam is visible on the shell. I have never seen an original drum with a perfectly smooth, butt to butt, joint. They would use a scarf joint and secure the seem with glue and tacks.
I have read many posts on this forum about drums, and it always surprises me that many people are will to purchase very inaccurate instruments. I'm not refering to you sir, but just commenting in general. I see many commenting on sutlers who machine sew a section that they feel should be hand sewn, but few ever pay close enough attention to the construction of drums.
Sorry for the venting.
Sincerely,
Patrick Jones
Camp Chase Fifes and Drums
Justin,
It appears that you have a couple of concerns about what you want to buy. It really boils down to this: Do you want to be authentic? Or, do you just want a drum that looks OK?
There are only three drum makers, that I know of, who will actually bend a piece of wood as the processed call for. They are Cooperman, if you ask, George Carroll, and Jim Smith. Cooperman will be more than happy to do whatever you'd like, as long as you have the money. They are a bit pricey, but will last a long time. George Carroll steam bends all of his shells that I'm aware of. And Jim Smith makes a superb reproduction, but is almost impossible to get a hold of.
I would call Cooperman and ask for Jim Ellis. You want to make sure that the seam is visible on the shell. I have never seen an original drum with a perfectly smooth, butt to butt, joint. They would use a scarf joint and secure the seem with glue and tacks.
I have read many posts on this forum about drums, and it always surprises me that many people are will to purchase very inaccurate instruments. I'm not refering to you sir, but just commenting in general. I see many commenting on sutlers who machine sew a section that they feel should be hand sewn, but few ever pay close enough attention to the construction of drums.
Sorry for the venting.
Sincerely,
Patrick Jones
Camp Chase Fifes and Drums
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