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Original Trousers

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  • Original Trousers

    I recently traded an identified officer's overcoat cape for this pair of trousers. There's a bit of story that came with them but it's impossible for me to verify; however, verbal provenance states that these were originally in a group from Alabama that included a CS officer's jacket, sword belt and sword. The original owner kept the pants and sold the rest of the group not believing the trousers had anything to do with the CS stuff because they are black. The guy I got these from says that he took them to the MoC 15 years ago; they claimed these were made from cloth identical to a few other pairs of CS trousers and overcoats....but who knows.


    Trousers are made from a heavy, coarse black double-faced satinet. The hidden warp is dark gray cotton. Waistband facings and pocketing is low quality cotton drill while the fly facings are self-fabric and brown silecia. The trousers are completely hand-sewn with a grayish brown linen thread.



    A wide variety of buttons including three styles of natural bone, Japanned tin w/wood back, darkened bone, and black horn, all original to the trousers. The lower fly button has been permanently encased by the fly stay-stitching. Note the buttonhole fly doesn't quite extend under the waistband lining.



    Detail of the pocket and right side fly. The fly facing was sewn integral to the fly seam itself, then folded under and crudely top stitched at the edge. The rectangular pocket bags are simply back stitched and overcast along the raw edge; this is sometimes seen in military and civilian trousers of the period.



    Adjustment belts are raw edged satinet and brown silecia bound with reddish-brown worsted wool tape. Note the bizarre tapered waistband and lack of a yoke or rise...they're actually lower in the back than the front. I am aware of at least two other original pairs of pants that were made without a yoke or rise, but the waistband made up for this by becoming wider/taller in the back. Ian McWherter pointed out to me that the waistbands here might have been put on backwards.



    Detail of the left pocket. They are almost horizontal "slash" pockets save for the short extension at the out seams. The interior front pocket facings are raw-edged and overcast to the turned-under trouser panel then double top stitched. It appears as three rows of stitching on the front. The terminus of the pocket openings were randomly secured with tacking stitches instead of anything expected/sane.


    I'm hoping to share more items as I get them; hopefully including some original Federal trousers and headgear!
    Last edited by GreencoatCross; 04-14-2011, 02:26 PM.
    Brian White
    [URL="http://wwandcompany.com"]Wambaugh, White, & Co.[/URL]
    [URL="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517"]https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517[/URL]
    [email]brian@wwandcompany.com[/email]

  • #2
    Re: Original Trousers

    Outstanding Brian! Thanks for sharing.
    [FONT="Georgia"][SIZE="5"]Eric Davis
    Handsome Company Mess
    Liberty Hall Drum Corps [/SIZE][/FONT]

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    • #3
      Re: Original Trousers

      Dang you, Brian White. I've want a pair of black satinette trowsers for close to twenty years. I thought I'd overc ome that, until now.
      Is that a double row of stitching on the pocket? If so, anywhere else?
      Pat Brown

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      • #4
        Re: Original Trousers

        Nice Brian. If you know of other original uniforms for sale that you are going to pass on, I'm in the market.
        Matt Woodburn
        Retired Big Bug
        WIG/GHTI
        Hiram Lodge #7, F&AM, Franklin, TN
        "There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Original Trousers

          So, the third "row" of stitching is the overcasting that is attaching the facing?

          Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
          John Wickett
          Former Carpetbagger
          Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

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          • #6
            Re: Original Trousers

            Matt, I have a lead on an old "centennial" collection (an identified U.S. Sharpshooter officer's vest came out of it last week) but have yet to see it in person. Ridiculously low prices. I need to press my advantage with it so hopefully I will be able to view it in person by the end of next week.

            Wick, you are correct. There's an original pair of all hand-sewn, mule-ear pocketed J.T. Martin trousers like that too except there is no interior front pocket facing.

            Lindsey, a lot of the overcasting is done with the needle angled to appear as top stitching on some of the front/face/outside parts. The cuffs are done in this manner; folded up 3/4", overcast, and crudely running-stitched along the bottom, so it looks like two rows of top stitching close together.
            Last edited by GreencoatCross; 04-14-2011, 08:32 PM.
            Brian White
            [URL="http://wwandcompany.com"]Wambaugh, White, & Co.[/URL]
            [URL="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517"]https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517[/URL]
            [email]brian@wwandcompany.com[/email]

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            • #7
              Re: Original Trousers

              Brian,

              Would this old "centennial" collection be one that was put together around the time of the centennial or is it old items that were made during the centennial?
              Matt Woodburn
              Retired Big Bug
              WIG/GHTI
              Hiram Lodge #7, F&AM, Franklin, TN
              "There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Original Trousers

                Matt, original stuff collected before and during the centennial.
                Brian White
                [URL="http://wwandcompany.com"]Wambaugh, White, & Co.[/URL]
                [URL="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517"]https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517[/URL]
                [email]brian@wwandcompany.com[/email]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Original Trousers

                  Brian,

                  That sounds great. You certainly get first dibs, but if there is anything that you don't want, I'd sure love to know what's available if you're willing to share the source. Send me a Private Message if you're willing.
                  Matt Woodburn
                  Retired Big Bug
                  WIG/GHTI
                  Hiram Lodge #7, F&AM, Franklin, TN
                  "There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

                  Comment

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