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Federal Issue Shirts by Chris Sullivan, Stony Brook Company
According to the U.S. Army regulations for 1861 (and 1863) a soldier was allowed three flannel shirts during each year of his enlistment (War Department, 1861). Moreover, regulation No. 1570 states, "flannel shirt - same now as furnished" (War Department, 1861). Shirts issued to the Army were manufactured in only one size (Brewster, 1994). However, there were minor degrees or variations in size among contractors' products.
Shirts were shipped to the Army in bales of 100 weighing 92 pounds and measuring approximately two foot square (Quartermaster Manual, 1865). Many of the Army's other garments were received in the same way - in bales! In general, these shirts were a cream (undyed) [white of off-white] wool/flannel. They were cut square with underarm and neck gussets and a simple hemmed neck opening, closing at the collar by one tin-faced, cardboard backed, four-hole button (Osman, 1993). Although this type of shirt is commonly referred to as the Model 1851, no such title as 'model' or 'pattern' was used in describing any shirts at any time (Osman, 1993). Although government specifications were for white and/or off-white fabric (Shaker flannel), there is evidence of 'coarse bluish gray' flannel shirts being issued as well (McKee, 1993).
A private soldier's shirt of the 1820's [through the 1840's] was made from 3 yards of 7/8 cotton shirting (i.e. 31 & 1/2 inch wide unbleached muslin) utilizing three small buttons [tin or stamped iron] and 2 skeins of thread (Osman, 1993). In 1851, the War Department instituted major uniform revisions which also meant a change in specifications for shirts. From that time until the War only one type of shirt was considered the official Army pattern - a shirt made of mixed cotton and wool domet flannel (Adjutant General's Office, 1859). Beginning in 1851, as far as the U.S. Army was concerned, the muslin shirt was history.
By June 30, 1865 the Quartermaster's Department had purchased 1,203,548 'flannel shirts' and manufactured another 1,249,404. Knit shirts numbered 261,229 (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). It is evident that a tremendous amount of 'Canton Flannel' was purchased by the government during the war for the manufacture of 'shirts and drawers' (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994).
On September 3, 1864 the 'Cincinnati [supply] Depot' awarded New York contractor J.T. Martin an order for 400,000 'G.F. (gray flannel) shirts.' Reports further describe the fabric as: 'Flannel, Canton, 3/4 '; Flannel gray twilled 3/4 and gray and blue , 3/4' (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). The '3/4' refers to the width; in this case that means 27 inches (Huntoon, 1898). In February, 1864 a similar contact was given to Alex T. Lane of Philadelphia for 100,000 shirts of blue twilled flannel (Brewster, 1994). Thus shirts of various shades of gray were also manufactured, accepted and issued (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994).
A sample of the off-white or cream colored issue shirt is in the collection of the Smithsonian Institution. It is made of a domet flannel, with a open slit on the front rather than a plaquet. This specimen has a single button closure on a narrow falling collar (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). There is a very similar shirt in the Tojhusmuseet [Danish Army museum] in Copenhagen which is there as a result of an exchange of uniform pieces between the U.S. and Danish governments in 1858 (Osman, 1994). This is an early pattern shirt. By mid-war a new pattern was developed which was very popular with the soldiers. The differences between the two patterns are, however, quite minor. The later or mid-war pattern shirt had a three button front plaquet and sometimes even came through with one or two breast pockets which was unusual. All other features such as the narrow fold over collar, reinforced shoulders, cuff style, buttons, etc., remained the same as the early shirt. Its popularity with the soldiers was apparently due to the buttoning front plaquet which provided greater warmth in colder weather and gave it a more finished appearance (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994).
There are a number of cases where the coarse wool and wool/flannel issue shirts were worn over civilian shirts made of finer [and more comfortable] grades of fabrics (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). While it may seem odd, this practice was apparently not uncommon. We have photographic evidence which indicates that soldiers often wore the two shirts simultaneously.
It you have never seen an Army issue shirt, such as those referred to in this article, obtain a copy of ECHOES OF GLORY, ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OFTHE UNION (Time-Life, 1991) and see page 126.
When shopping around for an Army Issue reproduction shirt, here's what you should look for:
1. The proper shirt will have: a square cut body with split side seams, shoulder reinforcement, underarm gussets and a small square cut, falling collar. The neck opening for an early war shirt should be a split front with single button closure at the collar; a mid-war shirt will have a three button front plaquet to be correct.
2. A good shirt will be made from wool, wool/flannel or Canton or domet flannel (no muslin). The color of the fabric should be limited to that hue which is especially associated with the particular type of cloth (i.e.: domet and/or Canton flannel is usually white or off-white; wool and wool flannels are usually gray or blue-gray).
3. At all costs you MUST AVOID big floppy collars! Most original shirts generally have narrow 1 to 1 1/2 inch collars (McKee, 1993). Most were cut square and not rounded like many 'repros' you see at sutler stands at reenactments near you.
4. The best authentic shirts will have wide cuffs that can fold back on themselves when buttoned (McKee, 1993).
5. Look for HAND FELLED seams! Not only does this add to the authenticity of your shirt, it also helps the garment withstand repeated washings without fraying. Thus it provides additional durability - more years of field service (McKee, 1993).
6. HAND SEWN button holes only! Additionally, do not forget that the buttons should be cardboard backed, 4-hole, tin faced and small (about 1/2 inch in diameter). Some issue shirts had stamped sheet iron buttons (Osman, 1993). In lieu of tin buttons, these are certainly acceptable but it seems that few stamped iron buttons of the correct pattern are available.
So you say that your issue shirt does not even come near the ones described in this article!? I would say pass it off as a civilian shirt (which is another whole subject and a new article!) but that wouldn't do justice to accurate civvy shirts! Although to the untrained eye they are simple shirts, they are a completely different entity with regard to fabrics, buttons and general styling. However, civilian shirts and military shirts are not that much different in the basics, to be sure.
On a final note, if you find a nice reproduction ARMY ISSUE shirt out there, do not expect it to be cheap! There is ALOT of handwork in these garments IF they are made correctly. Expect to pay handsomely for it! I would also advise caution in buying shirts advertised as being ARMY ISSUE; unfortunately, it has been my experience that many current manufacturers do not use correct fabrics or do they use the correct pattern - so beware.
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Adjutant General's Office, (June 1859). General Order No. 31 Uniform and Dress of the Army of the United States (Washington, 12 June 1859).
Brewster, William, (1994, November). The Case for the Contract Variant Issue Shirt." THE COMPANY WAG, Volume 8, Page 7.
Huntoon, Robert C., (1898). Historical Notes. 710 Federal Issue Trousers (Schuylkill Arsenal) 1851-1876. Past Patterns 1989.
McKee, Paul, (1993, August). The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts. THE COMPANY WAG, Volume 7, Pages 3-6.
Osman, Stephen, (1993, Spring). The Federal Issue Shirt. THE WATCHDOG, Volume 1, Pages 4-5.
_____________, (1994, Summer). A Tale of Two Shirts. THE JOURNAL OF THE COMPANY OF MILITARY HISTORIANS, Volume XLV, Number 2.
Quartermaster Manual, (1865). Unpublished manuscript. National Archives, Records of the Quartermaster General.
Strayer, Larry and Adolphson, Steven J., (1994, November). "Rather Coarse and Scratchy", U.S. Shirts of the 1860's. THE COMPANY WAG, Volume 8, Pages 1-8.
U.S. Government, War Department, (1861). Revised Regulations for the Army of the United States, 1861. Philadelphia; J.B. Lippincott & Company.
Woodhead, Henry, (et. al.). ECHOES OF GLORY, ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE UNION. Alexandria, VA: Time-Life Books, 1991.
NOTE:
This article originally appeared on the Rockport Website and then were hosted by the Authentic Campaigner site with Chris' permission.
According to the U.S. Army regulations for 1861 (and 1863) a soldier was allowed three flannel shirts during each year of his enlistment (War Department, 1861). Moreover, regulation No. 1570 states, "flannel shirt - same now as furnished" (War Department, 1861). Shirts issued to the Army were manufactured in only one size (Brewster, 1994). However, there were minor degrees or variations in size among contractors' products.
Shirts were shipped to the Army in bales of 100 weighing 92 pounds and measuring approximately two foot square (Quartermaster Manual, 1865). Many of the Army's other garments were received in the same way - in bales! In general, these shirts were a cream (undyed) [white of off-white] wool/flannel. They were cut square with underarm and neck gussets and a simple hemmed neck opening, closing at the collar by one tin-faced, cardboard backed, four-hole button (Osman, 1993). Although this type of shirt is commonly referred to as the Model 1851, no such title as 'model' or 'pattern' was used in describing any shirts at any time (Osman, 1993). Although government specifications were for white and/or off-white fabric (Shaker flannel), there is evidence of 'coarse bluish gray' flannel shirts being issued as well (McKee, 1993).
A private soldier's shirt of the 1820's [through the 1840's] was made from 3 yards of 7/8 cotton shirting (i.e. 31 & 1/2 inch wide unbleached muslin) utilizing three small buttons [tin or stamped iron] and 2 skeins of thread (Osman, 1993). In 1851, the War Department instituted major uniform revisions which also meant a change in specifications for shirts. From that time until the War only one type of shirt was considered the official Army pattern - a shirt made of mixed cotton and wool domet flannel (Adjutant General's Office, 1859). Beginning in 1851, as far as the U.S. Army was concerned, the muslin shirt was history.
By June 30, 1865 the Quartermaster's Department had purchased 1,203,548 'flannel shirts' and manufactured another 1,249,404. Knit shirts numbered 261,229 (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). It is evident that a tremendous amount of 'Canton Flannel' was purchased by the government during the war for the manufacture of 'shirts and drawers' (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994).
On September 3, 1864 the 'Cincinnati [supply] Depot' awarded New York contractor J.T. Martin an order for 400,000 'G.F. (gray flannel) shirts.' Reports further describe the fabric as: 'Flannel, Canton, 3/4 '; Flannel gray twilled 3/4 and gray and blue , 3/4' (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). The '3/4' refers to the width; in this case that means 27 inches (Huntoon, 1898). In February, 1864 a similar contact was given to Alex T. Lane of Philadelphia for 100,000 shirts of blue twilled flannel (Brewster, 1994). Thus shirts of various shades of gray were also manufactured, accepted and issued (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994).
A sample of the off-white or cream colored issue shirt is in the collection of the Smithsonian Institution. It is made of a domet flannel, with a open slit on the front rather than a plaquet. This specimen has a single button closure on a narrow falling collar (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). There is a very similar shirt in the Tojhusmuseet [Danish Army museum] in Copenhagen which is there as a result of an exchange of uniform pieces between the U.S. and Danish governments in 1858 (Osman, 1994). This is an early pattern shirt. By mid-war a new pattern was developed which was very popular with the soldiers. The differences between the two patterns are, however, quite minor. The later or mid-war pattern shirt had a three button front plaquet and sometimes even came through with one or two breast pockets which was unusual. All other features such as the narrow fold over collar, reinforced shoulders, cuff style, buttons, etc., remained the same as the early shirt. Its popularity with the soldiers was apparently due to the buttoning front plaquet which provided greater warmth in colder weather and gave it a more finished appearance (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994).
There are a number of cases where the coarse wool and wool/flannel issue shirts were worn over civilian shirts made of finer [and more comfortable] grades of fabrics (Strayer and Adolphson, 1994). While it may seem odd, this practice was apparently not uncommon. We have photographic evidence which indicates that soldiers often wore the two shirts simultaneously.
It you have never seen an Army issue shirt, such as those referred to in this article, obtain a copy of ECHOES OF GLORY, ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OFTHE UNION (Time-Life, 1991) and see page 126.
When shopping around for an Army Issue reproduction shirt, here's what you should look for:
1. The proper shirt will have: a square cut body with split side seams, shoulder reinforcement, underarm gussets and a small square cut, falling collar. The neck opening for an early war shirt should be a split front with single button closure at the collar; a mid-war shirt will have a three button front plaquet to be correct.
2. A good shirt will be made from wool, wool/flannel or Canton or domet flannel (no muslin). The color of the fabric should be limited to that hue which is especially associated with the particular type of cloth (i.e.: domet and/or Canton flannel is usually white or off-white; wool and wool flannels are usually gray or blue-gray).
3. At all costs you MUST AVOID big floppy collars! Most original shirts generally have narrow 1 to 1 1/2 inch collars (McKee, 1993). Most were cut square and not rounded like many 'repros' you see at sutler stands at reenactments near you.
4. The best authentic shirts will have wide cuffs that can fold back on themselves when buttoned (McKee, 1993).
5. Look for HAND FELLED seams! Not only does this add to the authenticity of your shirt, it also helps the garment withstand repeated washings without fraying. Thus it provides additional durability - more years of field service (McKee, 1993).
6. HAND SEWN button holes only! Additionally, do not forget that the buttons should be cardboard backed, 4-hole, tin faced and small (about 1/2 inch in diameter). Some issue shirts had stamped sheet iron buttons (Osman, 1993). In lieu of tin buttons, these are certainly acceptable but it seems that few stamped iron buttons of the correct pattern are available.
So you say that your issue shirt does not even come near the ones described in this article!? I would say pass it off as a civilian shirt (which is another whole subject and a new article!) but that wouldn't do justice to accurate civvy shirts! Although to the untrained eye they are simple shirts, they are a completely different entity with regard to fabrics, buttons and general styling. However, civilian shirts and military shirts are not that much different in the basics, to be sure.
On a final note, if you find a nice reproduction ARMY ISSUE shirt out there, do not expect it to be cheap! There is ALOT of handwork in these garments IF they are made correctly. Expect to pay handsomely for it! I would also advise caution in buying shirts advertised as being ARMY ISSUE; unfortunately, it has been my experience that many current manufacturers do not use correct fabrics or do they use the correct pattern - so beware.
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Adjutant General's Office, (June 1859). General Order No. 31 Uniform and Dress of the Army of the United States (Washington, 12 June 1859).
Brewster, William, (1994, November). The Case for the Contract Variant Issue Shirt." THE COMPANY WAG, Volume 8, Page 7.
Huntoon, Robert C., (1898). Historical Notes. 710 Federal Issue Trousers (Schuylkill Arsenal) 1851-1876. Past Patterns 1989.
McKee, Paul, (1993, August). The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts. THE COMPANY WAG, Volume 7, Pages 3-6.
Osman, Stephen, (1993, Spring). The Federal Issue Shirt. THE WATCHDOG, Volume 1, Pages 4-5.
_____________, (1994, Summer). A Tale of Two Shirts. THE JOURNAL OF THE COMPANY OF MILITARY HISTORIANS, Volume XLV, Number 2.
Quartermaster Manual, (1865). Unpublished manuscript. National Archives, Records of the Quartermaster General.
Strayer, Larry and Adolphson, Steven J., (1994, November). "Rather Coarse and Scratchy", U.S. Shirts of the 1860's. THE COMPANY WAG, Volume 8, Pages 1-8.
U.S. Government, War Department, (1861). Revised Regulations for the Army of the United States, 1861. Philadelphia; J.B. Lippincott & Company.
Woodhead, Henry, (et. al.). ECHOES OF GLORY, ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE UNION. Alexandria, VA: Time-Life Books, 1991.
NOTE:
This article originally appeared on the Rockport Website and then were hosted by the Authentic Campaigner site with Chris' permission.
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