Tweet
Visible Means of Support
By Chris Sullivan, Stony Brook Company
I once heard a fellow reenactor talking about his suspenders being 'super authentic' because they were a copy of the 'Army issue' suspenders used during the war. Well, maybe the Spanish-American War but certainly not the Civil War. Suspenders were not an item of issue until 1884 (1). The incident previously mentioned reminds me of another 'brain trust' who was arguing with a friend of mine over the lack of creases in uniform trousers. Creasing was unknown in the Army until the late 1890's. I guess some people must have something to say, right or wrong.
Suspenders were an item from the civilian market or made during our era of interest so styles and materials vary widely! This allows for much flexibility in present day reproductions. In general, suspenders of the Civil War era were made out of any stout cotton or linen fabric. However, knitted and crocheted suspenders were also common. A pair of white knitted suspenders with button holes for attachment and adjustment are on display at the Confederate Museum in Charleston, South Carolina. Suspenders are also found in various war-time era issues of Godey's Magazine (2). The greatest percentage of original period suspenders have the 'X' arrangement in the back! Today even patterns in 'Y' and 'H' can be found! A pair of ornate civilian suspenders worn by George W. Barnes, Co. H, 36th Massachusetts Infantry (3) reflect something of the 'Y' pattern in the back from which the leather button attachments are suspended. This 'Y' piece is approximately 3 1/2 inches long at best. This is much different from the 'Y' pattern seen on some troops today where the rear strap extends from the shoulder blades to the waistline!
The most common type of suspenders (also called galluses or braces) worn in reenactment circles today are generally made from canvas, drilling, ticking or some similar type of fabric. They are usually made in an 'X' pattern (although a yet unverified 'H' pattern can be found) sewn in the back where they cross and with buttonholes or leather ends for adjustment and/or attachment. Someone termed the non-adjustable 'X' pattern suspenders the 'poor boy' style and the nickname has stuck ever since. Some poor misguided reenactor folks still wear the elastic suspenders with serrated snap clips. Twenty years ago, I saw these elastic suspenders advertised by a well established sutler as being 'red for artillery, blue for infantry, yellow for cavalry and green for the Irish Brigade'. Not only are the suspenders absolutely the epitome of 'farb', the ad itself was exceedingly misleading; the guy just couldn't have been any more wrong! While elastic has been around in one form or another since the 1830's its use in the manufacture of suspenders during the Civil War is really 's-t-r-e-c-h-i-n-g' things!(4).
Photographic evidence has narrowed the field, if even just a little, for what can be considered a safe 'middle of the road' pair of authentic suspenders (5). Working from these photographs of soldiers we have arrived at the following common specifications for high quality reproduction Civil War suspenders:
a. The cloth should be a stout cotton fabric plain or with a print or embroidery. The main suspender width should be between one and two inches. The suspender should have a tapered end on the lower front portion to accommodate an adjustment buckle. This is the most common pattern. We have seen variations with non-tapered front straps and wide buckles, as well as small buckles sewn on the rear of wide front straps. From these, small buckles would hang the front trouser button suspension straps. Please note, while embroidery is fairly common, you would be wise to avoid garish prints and glaring colors!
b. The suspender should have a two-tine steel or brass buckle (approx. 1 inch wide) for the adjustment ends (the tapered end mentioned in 'a' above).
c. Good, authentic reproduction suspenders should have a single or double strap for connecting the front button or buttons which extends down from the buckle bar. These straps can be fabric or leather. On the back ends they can be part of the main suspender itself or leather tabs sewn on.
d. Leather ends must be cut and generally 'keyholed'. However, if the front attachment straps and rear suspender ends are strictly fabric, HAND SEWN button holes are necessary.
Finally, did you ever wonder where the term 'a pair of suspenders' comes from? Usually suspenders were simply two separate straps...hence a pair (6). A number of prominent scholars of Civil War material culture agree that most suspenders that were sewn in the back were probably tacked together by the owner to keep them from shifting.
By obtaining a pair of suspenders that meet these specifications you will have made a major advancement in the authenticity of your impression. Naturally, as with any item requiring such detailed craftsmanship, such visible means of support will not come cheap.
Still wearing elastic suspenders? Well, I've got this nice rainbow colored (covers all branches) pair with clip ends that you might like! I also know about this bridge in Brooklyn that's for sale....
Endnotes
(1) "Federal Issue Uniforms of the Civil War." Video tape, Smithsonian Institution, 1990.
(2) See especially, GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, "Gentleman's Crochet Silk Braces", April 1864, page 390.
(3) Photocopy of a print and text for the suspenders of George W. Barnes, Company H, 36th Massachusetts Infantry. This was supplied to me by Robert Stickler of Stone Ridge, New York with a note indicating the information is from "Lord's Civil War Collectors Encyclopedia, Vol. #3". Bob is a noted authority on New York State uniforms as well as Federal uniforms in general. He is a veteran reenactor of the 120th New York State Volunteer Infantry.
(4) Robert C. Huntoon, "710 Federal Issue Trousers (Schuylkill Arsenal) 1851-1876, Historical Notes." Past Pattern, 1989. It is important to note that Huntoon's "Historical Notes" accompanied the 710 issue trouser pattern designed by Past Patterns and sold by the authorized dealer, Amazon Dry Goods, 2218 East 11th Street, Davenport Iowa, 52803.
(5) For photographic evidence see, Paul McKee, "Four Sizes May Fit All....But Stylish They Ain't." THE COMPANY WAG, March, 1991, page 1; Paul McKee, "The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts." THE COMPANY WAG., August 1993, pages 1-5; also see the Smithsonian Video, "Federal Issue Uniforms", 1990.
(6) James McElhenney, personal telephone conversation, September 21, 1995.
Bibliography
No Author, "Gentleman's Crochet Silk Braces", GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, April, 1864.
________., "Knitted Braces", GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, March 1862, pages 161-162.
Huntoon, Robert C., (1988) Historical Notes. "710 Federal Issue Trousers (Schuylkill Arsenal)" 1851-1876. Past Patterns, 1989.
McElhenney, James, Artist and historian. Personal telephone conversation, September 1995.
McKee, Paul, (March, 1991). "Four Sizes May Fit All....But Stylish They Ain't." THE COMPANY WAG, No. 5, page 1.
McKee, Paul, (August 1993). "The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts." THE COMPANY WAG., No. 7, pages 1-5.
Smithsonian Institution, FEDERAL ENLISTED UNIFORMS OF THE CIVIL WAR. Roberts Video Publishing, Inc. 1990.
NOTE:
This article originally appeared on the Rockport Website and then were hosted by the Authentic Campaigner site with Chris' permission.
By Chris Sullivan, Stony Brook Company
I once heard a fellow reenactor talking about his suspenders being 'super authentic' because they were a copy of the 'Army issue' suspenders used during the war. Well, maybe the Spanish-American War but certainly not the Civil War. Suspenders were not an item of issue until 1884 (1). The incident previously mentioned reminds me of another 'brain trust' who was arguing with a friend of mine over the lack of creases in uniform trousers. Creasing was unknown in the Army until the late 1890's. I guess some people must have something to say, right or wrong.
Suspenders were an item from the civilian market or made during our era of interest so styles and materials vary widely! This allows for much flexibility in present day reproductions. In general, suspenders of the Civil War era were made out of any stout cotton or linen fabric. However, knitted and crocheted suspenders were also common. A pair of white knitted suspenders with button holes for attachment and adjustment are on display at the Confederate Museum in Charleston, South Carolina. Suspenders are also found in various war-time era issues of Godey's Magazine (2). The greatest percentage of original period suspenders have the 'X' arrangement in the back! Today even patterns in 'Y' and 'H' can be found! A pair of ornate civilian suspenders worn by George W. Barnes, Co. H, 36th Massachusetts Infantry (3) reflect something of the 'Y' pattern in the back from which the leather button attachments are suspended. This 'Y' piece is approximately 3 1/2 inches long at best. This is much different from the 'Y' pattern seen on some troops today where the rear strap extends from the shoulder blades to the waistline!
The most common type of suspenders (also called galluses or braces) worn in reenactment circles today are generally made from canvas, drilling, ticking or some similar type of fabric. They are usually made in an 'X' pattern (although a yet unverified 'H' pattern can be found) sewn in the back where they cross and with buttonholes or leather ends for adjustment and/or attachment. Someone termed the non-adjustable 'X' pattern suspenders the 'poor boy' style and the nickname has stuck ever since. Some poor misguided reenactor folks still wear the elastic suspenders with serrated snap clips. Twenty years ago, I saw these elastic suspenders advertised by a well established sutler as being 'red for artillery, blue for infantry, yellow for cavalry and green for the Irish Brigade'. Not only are the suspenders absolutely the epitome of 'farb', the ad itself was exceedingly misleading; the guy just couldn't have been any more wrong! While elastic has been around in one form or another since the 1830's its use in the manufacture of suspenders during the Civil War is really 's-t-r-e-c-h-i-n-g' things!(4).
Photographic evidence has narrowed the field, if even just a little, for what can be considered a safe 'middle of the road' pair of authentic suspenders (5). Working from these photographs of soldiers we have arrived at the following common specifications for high quality reproduction Civil War suspenders:
a. The cloth should be a stout cotton fabric plain or with a print or embroidery. The main suspender width should be between one and two inches. The suspender should have a tapered end on the lower front portion to accommodate an adjustment buckle. This is the most common pattern. We have seen variations with non-tapered front straps and wide buckles, as well as small buckles sewn on the rear of wide front straps. From these, small buckles would hang the front trouser button suspension straps. Please note, while embroidery is fairly common, you would be wise to avoid garish prints and glaring colors!
b. The suspender should have a two-tine steel or brass buckle (approx. 1 inch wide) for the adjustment ends (the tapered end mentioned in 'a' above).
c. Good, authentic reproduction suspenders should have a single or double strap for connecting the front button or buttons which extends down from the buckle bar. These straps can be fabric or leather. On the back ends they can be part of the main suspender itself or leather tabs sewn on.
d. Leather ends must be cut and generally 'keyholed'. However, if the front attachment straps and rear suspender ends are strictly fabric, HAND SEWN button holes are necessary.
Finally, did you ever wonder where the term 'a pair of suspenders' comes from? Usually suspenders were simply two separate straps...hence a pair (6). A number of prominent scholars of Civil War material culture agree that most suspenders that were sewn in the back were probably tacked together by the owner to keep them from shifting.
By obtaining a pair of suspenders that meet these specifications you will have made a major advancement in the authenticity of your impression. Naturally, as with any item requiring such detailed craftsmanship, such visible means of support will not come cheap.
Still wearing elastic suspenders? Well, I've got this nice rainbow colored (covers all branches) pair with clip ends that you might like! I also know about this bridge in Brooklyn that's for sale....
Endnotes
(1) "Federal Issue Uniforms of the Civil War." Video tape, Smithsonian Institution, 1990.
(2) See especially, GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, "Gentleman's Crochet Silk Braces", April 1864, page 390.
(3) Photocopy of a print and text for the suspenders of George W. Barnes, Company H, 36th Massachusetts Infantry. This was supplied to me by Robert Stickler of Stone Ridge, New York with a note indicating the information is from "Lord's Civil War Collectors Encyclopedia, Vol. #3". Bob is a noted authority on New York State uniforms as well as Federal uniforms in general. He is a veteran reenactor of the 120th New York State Volunteer Infantry.
(4) Robert C. Huntoon, "710 Federal Issue Trousers (Schuylkill Arsenal) 1851-1876, Historical Notes." Past Pattern, 1989. It is important to note that Huntoon's "Historical Notes" accompanied the 710 issue trouser pattern designed by Past Patterns and sold by the authorized dealer, Amazon Dry Goods, 2218 East 11th Street, Davenport Iowa, 52803.
(5) For photographic evidence see, Paul McKee, "Four Sizes May Fit All....But Stylish They Ain't." THE COMPANY WAG, March, 1991, page 1; Paul McKee, "The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts." THE COMPANY WAG., August 1993, pages 1-5; also see the Smithsonian Video, "Federal Issue Uniforms", 1990.
(6) James McElhenney, personal telephone conversation, September 21, 1995.
Bibliography
No Author, "Gentleman's Crochet Silk Braces", GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, April, 1864.
________., "Knitted Braces", GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, March 1862, pages 161-162.
Huntoon, Robert C., (1988) Historical Notes. "710 Federal Issue Trousers (Schuylkill Arsenal)" 1851-1876. Past Patterns, 1989.
McElhenney, James, Artist and historian. Personal telephone conversation, September 1995.
McKee, Paul, (March, 1991). "Four Sizes May Fit All....But Stylish They Ain't." THE COMPANY WAG, No. 5, page 1.
McKee, Paul, (August 1993). "The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts." THE COMPANY WAG., No. 7, pages 1-5.
Smithsonian Institution, FEDERAL ENLISTED UNIFORMS OF THE CIVIL WAR. Roberts Video Publishing, Inc. 1990.
NOTE:
This article originally appeared on the Rockport Website and then were hosted by the Authentic Campaigner site with Chris' permission.
Comment