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Revolver finish

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  • Revolver finish

    I have searched the forums and have found a little information on re-bluing pistols. Which is more period correct for a remington 1858? Cold rust blueing or charcoal bluing or hot bluing? I am not talking about caustic bluing.

    Kevin White
    147th PVI
    Last edited by trappedonrr; 04-15-2008, 09:35 PM. Reason: adding signature

  • #2
    Re: Revolver finish

    Hallo!

    Moderator hat on...

    It is a Forum requirement that all posts be signed. You may want to consider using the Auto Signature feature for convenience.

    Moderator hat off...

    In brief and to over-generalize...
    "Period" revolvers were not liquid or paste "cold blued" or "heat blued."

    The various companies had their formulae for chemical salt type "hot bluing" that typically produced a "drier" looking, or matter-looking, black than the modern black "wet ink" look the Italians use.
    Plus, on special factory order, a finer blue could be ordered, such as the "wet blue ink" look from Colt. (Not a military issue concern...)

    (Nor did they use cyanide gas to simulate color case hardening for those makers who colored their frames, hammers, and loading levers.)

    Curt
    Curt Schmidt
    In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

    -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
    -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
    -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
    -Vastly Ignorant
    -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

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    • #3
      Re: Revolver finish

      I have a formula for Salt bluing. Maybe I will try that. I also noticed that the 1873 springfield trapdoor was browned and that a lot of military arms were browned or armory brite.


      Private Kevin White
      147pvi

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