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Removing Italian Markings

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  • Removing Italian Markings

    Pards,

    Is there any way to safely remove the farby markings on the barrel of a weapon at home? I checked both the monster enfield thread and the search function but could not find anything helpful. I would like to avoid having to send my weapon to a defarbing service because NJ gun laws are a bitch.

    Thanks
    James Duffney
    61st NY
    Brave Peacock Mess

  • #2
    Re: Removing Italian Markings

    Draw filing the markings down is not hard, all you need is a bastard cut file and a vice plus some leather to wrap the barrel in to keep the vice from scratching it. Some emery cloth will smooth out the file marks. Remember a little at a time, you can always take more metal off but putting it back on is hard. If you have any additional questions feel free to send me a PM.

    And before anyone gets their panties in a wad as has happened before, the serial number on a reproduction musket can be removed. Under Federal regulations and in nearly all states a reproduction musket is not considered a firearm and the regulations addressing serial numbers does not apply.

    If you are one of those that think the Federal regulations do apply to muzzleloaders and suggest removing and restamping a serial number to be on the safe side then you will be wrong on another count because it is a felony to remove the serial number and remark a firearm requiring a serial number. Any questions, I will be glad to give you the page and paragraph number from the BATF regulations.
    Jim Kindred

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    • #3
      Re: Removing Italian Markings

      Jim speaks the truth. I filed off my unwanted markings in just the manner he describes. I have had no formal metalworking training, and I dare you to find where the markings used to be.

      The key? Remove the least amount of metal possible to remove the markings.
      Ron Mueller
      Illinois
      New Madrid Guards

      "How many legs does a dog have if you call the tail a leg?
      Four. Calling a tail a leg doesn't make it a leg."
      Abraham Lincoln

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Removing Italian Markings

        Hallo!

        Yes, the "serial number" thing is an ad naseum chronic reenactorism that cannot die.

        Just a caveat...

        When draw filing the barrel, take note and caution to work the file "round and over" with each stroke to prevent filing flats into the round surface of the barrel. By "rocking" the file, and overlapping the passes side-to-side, it reduces the chance of creating a number of flats.
        (So does using sandpaper or emory like buffing or "shining a shoe.")

        And the key to poishing metal is to remove deep scratches by progressively replacing them with finer and finer scratches until the unaided human eye can no longer perceive them and the surface looks smooth and shiny.

        Curt
        Curt Schmidt
        In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

        -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
        -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
        -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
        -Vastly Ignorant
        -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Removing Italian Markings

          Thanks guys. I did most of it today. I will probalby contiune touching it up until I die. The serial number should not be a problem regardless because on my armi-sport Enfield it is already printed under the barrel as well as on the side.
          James Duffney
          61st NY
          Brave Peacock Mess

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Removing Italian Markings

            The only reason it has a serial number is for importation purposes, once in the country it is no longer necessary.
            Jim Kindred

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            • #7
              Re: Removing Italian Markings

              Here's a question....I have seen two different finished on a springfield. One is a shiny (almost nickel) finish and the other is more of a mat finish. Considering the dull, mat finish, how would someone get the part they filed to resemble the rest of the barrell?
              Luke Gilly
              Breckinridge Greys
              Lodge 661 F&AM


              "May the grass grow long on the road to hell." --an Irish toast

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Removing Italian Markings

                Originally posted by lukegilly13 View Post
                Here's a question....I have seen two different finished on a springfield. One is a shiny (almost nickel) finish and the other is more of a mat finish. Considering the dull, mat finish, how would someone get the part they filed to resemble the rest of the barrell?
                And as an addendum to that question, how can you make a good repair to a blue finish. Cold bluing has not worked for me and hot bluing is not an option.
                Joe Allport

                [I]...harbors bushwhackers and bushwhacks himself occassionally...is a shoemaker and makes shoes for all the bushwhackers in the neighborhood.[/I]

                Texas Ground Hornets
                Co. F, 1st Texas Infantry
                Shoemaker

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Removing Italian Markings

                  Hallo!

                  In brief and to over-generalize....

                  Period barrels were burnished, a process that involved metal-on-metal polishing machines to get to "armory bright."
                  Typically, Italian reproductions are abrasive "buffing wheel" polished to a overly bright, mirror-lke finish. (Although some I have seen, ArmiSport I think they were, were "frosted" to a stain gray (equally wrong).

                  IMHO, the first consideration is whether to try to replicate the arsenal or contractor "as issued" look, Or the "field maintained" look of a veteran piece maintained say with campfire ash and water paste.

                  The degree of "polish" or "Brightness" is a factor of the presence or absence of scratches. Larger and deeper scratches in the surface of the metal are not really removed, they are replaced with smaller and finer scratches until the human eye no longer sees them and perceives the reflected light as a shine or sheen.

                  One can "kill" the bogus Italian mirror-polishing with progressively VERY fine grit emory and oil, or SCOTS-BRITE pads. Worn out 0000 steel wool, or 0000 steel wool and oil also works.

                  Curt
                  Curt Schmidt
                  In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

                  -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
                  -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
                  -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
                  -Vastly Ignorant
                  -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Removing Italian Markings

                    Thanks Curt...I will try that.
                    Why we are on the subject, were there any caliber markings on originals at all? My rifle says .58 caliber...should that be removed? It suprisingly does not say Euroarms of America anywhere on the rifle. That's a plus. one less thing to remove.

                    On another note, I use my rifle frequently at the nearby national park. Right now they are very particular about using any weapons on property. The head interpreter has asked that we do not remove serial numbers. If I abide by her request, would this stop me from attending tier 1 events? Or is this something that can be looked over?
                    Luke Gilly
                    Breckinridge Greys
                    Lodge 661 F&AM


                    "May the grass grow long on the road to hell." --an Irish toast

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Removing Italian Markings

                      Hallo!

                      Repairs" to damaged or worn chemical blueing is virtually impossible to do well- even with the high end professional gunsmith cold blues such as Van's Miracle Blue, or Brownel's Oxpho-BLue or Dycropan. 'Cheap "Birchwood Casey's" does a poor, thin, transparent that looks poor and gets worse by the minute.

                      Italain reproduction Enfield barrels and revolvers are done in modern, chemcial "hot tanks."

                      If talking about Period as-made Enfields, the originals had rust-blued barrels that can be redone at home for not too much money folllowing instructions archived around here somewhere.

                      Curt
                      Curt Schmidt
                      In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

                      -Hard and sharp as flint...secret, and self-contained, and solitary as an oyster.
                      -Haplogroup R1b M343 (Subclade R1b1a2 M269)
                      -Pointless Folksy Wisdom Mess, Oblio Lodge #1
                      -Vastly Ignorant
                      -Often incorrect, technically, historically, factually.

                      Comment

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