period laquer

[adamandnicole]

I'm looking to make a coating to cover the bare metal on my axe. I've read that they used to use a combination of turpentine,beeswax and boiled linseed oil to rust proof items, but I have no idea what the ratio used was. Anyone know more about this finish?

Thanks,

Adam Dickerson

[ACo.]

Re: period laquer

The rust proofing compound you speak of (I have no idea the ration of the items in the mixture) was used to protect the items in storage. It may have been removed on issue or with a little use, it wore off quickly. Use of the item is the rust proofing that you need, an item used every day will nut rust.

[C.R. Henderson]

Re: period laquer

The best thing you can do for an axe is keep it sharp, keep the metal oiled and keep it put up in a dry spot when you're not using it. The sharp thing is the most important one of the three. You can cut a tree with a butterknife but why not use a sharp axe?

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: period laquer

Hallo!

You may be thinking of the 3rd Edition of the U.S. Ordnance Manual
(1861):

Lacker for Small Arms, or for Water-Proof Paper

Beeswax..............................13 lbs.
Spirits turpentine...................13 galls.
Boiled linseed-oil....................1 gall.

These were slowly heated until well mixed.

Of course, one can decrease the amount but retain the proportions. ;)

But as shared, oiling or even greasing bare iron/steel blades is better.

Curt

[C.R. Henderson]

Re: period laquer

I almost forgot, keep the wood of your handle rubbed down with linseed oil, as well. When the wood starts to dry out it becomes brittle and will have a greater chance of breaking or splintering under normal use. Another thing you can do is use it and get proficient with it. It sounds stupid but I've seen too many jackasses that think they know how to use an axe splinter up a handle by not knowing how to get their stance right or by swinging wrong or a myriad of other things wrong that are supposed to make the axe work right. For splitting wood, I prefer an 8 lb. maul for the bulk of the work like splitting logs and the axe for either felling, light splitting or kindling work.