Shrinkage(canteen)

[Mark Choate]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

To all,

Well, it has been about 4 days since I reopened this thread due to my first putting water in my Sam Doolin canteen made of Ash. Since then I have received a wealth of good information and advice. While I have not heard from Sam himself (he is probably covered in work), you "wooden veterans" have more than made up for it and I am appreciative.

I am happy to announce that as of today, my canteen has ceased to "weep", "seep" or drip! Now, I will continue to keep it filled and will change the water on a regular basis.

Thank you all again for your sound advice and suggestions!

Mark

[Doolin]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Tried to respond days ago but post didn't make it. I don't believe wood species, old growth vs. new growth has as much to do with shrinkage
in repro wooden canteens as does the cut of wood used in construction of these canteens. The face or head is not as critical as cut of wood used in forming the staves. By cut, I mean what part of the log is used. Ideally, one should used "quartered" wood or lumber. The growth rings will be 60 to 90 degrees to the face of the board. Coopers back in the day understood this fact where today there are some who do not. Canteen staves made using quartered material will experience little or no shrinkage if thoroughly dry to begin with. I one were to make a wooden canteen using flat or plain sawn lumber, the wood is much more likely to shrink or distort dramatically. Flat sawn boards are what is commonly found at lumber yards and face grain exibits "cathedral" patterns. This may answer some questions about old vs. new canteen and durability of same.

Sam Doolin

[Mark Choate]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Sam,

Thanks for the good solid information. I have gained an education in this process.

The canteen is working beautifully and looks great! I never thought about it before, but a wooden canteen employs the same many of the same techniques of cooperage that barrels do.

Thanks again,
Mark

[Doolin]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Sam,

Thanks for the good solid information. I have gained an education in this process.

The canteen is working beautifully and looks great! I never thought about it before, but a wooden canteen employs the same many of the same techniques of cooperage that barrels do.

Thanks again,
Mark

Actually, the techniques are quite different but the principles are the same. Both employ tight fitting beveled staves, but barrels or kegs generally use staves tapered from center out to either end. Canteen staves can be of straight stock, coped on their inner edge to match the desired radius. after assembly, the outer profile can be shaped. Hope that makes sense.

Sam Doolin

[UNRECONSTRUCTED]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Another member mentioned boats awhile back and it got me to wondering... Why can't you pour in some marine grade two part epoxy resin, swish it around as you would bees wax, pour it out and let it dry? I have sealed many wooden items this way. One of the things that will destroy resin over time (ie ten years) is sunlight. I don't think much sunlight gets into a canteen.

[Mark Choate]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Yes, it does, Sam.

Actually "principals" is the word that I should have used and is a better fit to the subject. By the way, today I drove to Perryville for a pre-event meeting and in their museum is an original wooden canteen that is "spot on" like the one that you made! Several of us got into a discussion on the properties and the "do's and don't's" of such a canteen. At least I had a little bit of a knowledge base from which to speak.

thx,
Mark

[Doolin]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Another member mentioned boats awhile back and it got me to wondering... Why can't you pour in some marine grade two part epoxy resin, swish it around as you would bees wax, pour it out and let it dry? I have sealed many wooden items this way. One of the things that will destroy resin over time (ie ten years) is sunlight. I don't think much sunlight gets into a canteen.

Hello Jason,
That is something I've considered but have never been able to bring myself to do. 1st , I take a lot of pride in reproducing items as historically true to the original as possible. What you suggest would compromise my beliefs and I just cannot do that. 2nd, I truly believe that while it it may work initially, it would fail in short order. While the tree may be dead the wood is continually moving, sometimes with surprising force. Any rigid "lining" would crack apart in short order. No offense intended.

Sam Doolin

[Marine Mike]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

The glue has to flex with the wood movement or something will give. Usually its a nice splt in the wood. A walk through most antique furniture shops will show a panel that stuck and then split while adjusting to seasonal humidity changes. It's simpler and cheaper to keep the wood canteen wet.
Mike Stein

[JimKindred]

Re: Shrinkage(canteen)

Guys,

Let's not stray into Farbland with the modern epoxy resins and the like. If such continues the thread will be shut down.