Enlisted Private Purchase Sack: What Fabric?

[LibertyHallVols]

Gents,

I am thinking about making a private purchase sack coat, similar to the coat shown in the attached pics. The big question on my mind is:

What fabric should I use?

I think infantry frock kersey might be too heavy and normal fatigue blouse flannel might not be appropriate (that is the fabric the gov't used, after all! Not sure it would be used by a private taylor). The Hainsworth broadcloth might be too fine for an enlisted man's impression.

Have a look at the pics.

Thanks for your help!

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Enlisted Private Purchase Sack: What Fabric?

I personally don't think Hainsworth's wool is all that fine. I've always felt it works best as higher quality enlisted men's cloth and lower quality officer's cloth. Original broadcloth, especially broadcloth worn by civilians, puts Hainsworth's wool to shame. Just my opinion and I have a few originals to back it up.

[Jefferson Guards]

Re: Enlisted Private Purchase Sack: What Fabric?

I would go with the Hainsworth cloths.

While the superfine just a tad on the heavy side for coats, it is the most readily available modern approximation of the quality broadcloth that was commonly available to period tailors. You might want to look at Hainsworths doeskins. I believe that the weight of the doeskins is a better approximation of the weight, thought not perfect. I do know of one source of perfect period broadcloth, but alas it is specially and exclusively woven for the Yeomen Warders at the Tower of London.

[GreencoatCross]

Re: Enlisted Private Purchase Sack: What Fabric?

John,

I have to agree with Ian's commentary on the quality of Hainsworth's cloth. Original uniform fabrics put it to shame! However, I think that Hainsworth falls into the "acceptable" range for many garments including your private purchase sack coat. I don't think it will appear to be too high-grade and it certainly won't appear cheap like a flannel.

One of the neatest original private purchase blouses I've seen was worn by Edgar Yergason of the 22nd Connecticut Infantry. Aside from the interesting construction and style, it was made from a lightweight, twill woven finished wool. A twill woven medium to heavy weight modern suiting is comparable to what was used in the original. Yergason's blouse was unlined in the body so he definitely had an eye for comfort when he purchased it....needless to say, you have a lot of options.