Pattern for kepi

[shillcw]

I am intrested in making my own kepi. I need a good pattern. Does anyone on this forum have or know where to get a good pattern?

[Prodical Reb]

Re: Pattern for kepi

The CRRC has some good drawings but not a pattern persey. I don't think you will get any body to give you what they have worked hard on making. Try buying a good repro and disassembling it. Try the search engine. It should yeild at least these 2 and more threads.

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...t=kepi+pattern

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...t=kepi+pattern

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

Re: Pattern for kepi

More than once I've heard the advice to buy a quality reproduction and disassemble it to obtain a pattern. I've got to ask, would you like working for years obtaining the skills to sew, spending just as long looking at originals in museums, collections, or in images, perhaps spending thousands of dollars actually buying originals to study, just so you can have some dude instantly reep the benefit of all of that and now be able to make his own off the back of someone who worked his azz off to get to that point? This has happened several times to good pards like Bill Wickham and Greg Starbuck, and by folks who are now in business as direct competition, not just some schmuck who wants to have his own kool kaps. Its not exactly illegal, but at some point its not exactly ethical. If you want to buy their work, study it, look at the craftsmanship and perhaps learn how to pattern draft along the way through alot of trial and error, thats a little better, but to just copy a pattern by taking out the seam ripper, its just not cool in my book. I've got more respect for the craftsman in this game....

[CJSchumacher]

Re: Pattern for kepi

I can agree with this, but it also reminds me of Paul Von Reus, who disassembled and original forage cap as his pattern. Made quite the caps back in the day as did Paul Smith. Agreed that these men, along with Mr. Starbuck were and are quite the artisans. I have/had caps from all three.

Seems to me that it generally comes down to practice when one wants to get better at making anything. That and studying lots of originals.

[mslaird]

Re: Pattern for kepi

I started out by drafting a pattern from the dimensions in the Confederate Sketch Book. Then I started looking at originals myself to get the dimensions from those and modified as I made more kepis from that original pattern as I found what would work better and what did not work well. I make kepis but I normally give plenty of business to Greg Starbuck for my own use as I have no desire to compete with a craftsman of that talent. I too believe that taking apart someone else's work is plainly theft of their hard work.

A wise man who has been reproducing items from all different time periods commonly states, "it isn't rocket science." With a bit of hard work and research anyone who puts good effort to it can learn how to reproduce just about anything out there.

[lukegilly13]

Re: Pattern for kepi

I know NOTHING about making kepis...but isn't obtaining the proper "blocks" just as important as the pattern?

[mslaird]

Re: Pattern for kepi

I have never used a block to manufacture a kepi, nor have I actually seen one other than the photographs of the one that Kiev has.

The rough, small amount of tutelage I recieved in the basic makings of a kepi, before being turned loose to figure it out for myself, came from someone who has been making them for over thirty years and he did not use a block either. I am not all together sure what they would be used for in the construction process. However, I do think that one would be handy for making a forage cap because of the different way some of them go together.

I don't consider myself an expert by any stretch of the imagination but from what I have experienced, everything on a kepi just pretty much goes together in similar fashion to any garment, liner, innerfacing (stiffener) and main body, and as long as the pattern is cut right, the proper materials are used and it is sewn together properly, it turns out right.

What is fascinating about the headgear is that there were so many different variations of manufacture, even with some degree of standardization applied. Different dimensions, band width, top height, different bill materials, different stiffener materials and methods of attaching the stiffener in the headband, different materials and sizes for the disk in the top, and different methods of attachment for the top, liner top, disk, liner and fabric and different methods of attaching the bill.

I am about to make a painted cloth kepi next week in my alloted couple of hours of spare time from making garments and hats for other folks. I have wanted to make one of those for quite some time and I had enough material left after the run of wheel hats I did to make one.

[Prodical Reb]

Re: Pattern for kepi

I agree, buying a good repro and disassembling it is outright theft of somebody else's hardwork. I wasn't thinking when I threw that out.
I'm sure it has crossed his mind but doesn't want to put out the bucks to do that.

[LtCol0802]

Re: Pattern for kepi

Making a cap and having it look like something is quite an ordeal and takes years of experience. I got my first pattern from Robert Serio years ago and my first few caps were very rough at best. After looking at, holding, and carefully measuring many many original caps in museums and private collections, I modified my patterns to achieve the right look and construction techniques. The visor pattern is also important and varies depending on maker. Bottom line is that its an art form and to do it correctly takes years of experience. My hats of to you if you wish to pursue it as I have enjoyed making the 200+ caps I have made over the last 17 years. If you don't have that kind of time and effort to invest, get one from Greg, he will do you right.

S/F
LtCol John Owens USMC (ret)

See some of my caps below:

[garyjd]

Re: Pattern for kepi

John, Those are gorgeous. Your hard work and efforts show. ~Gary

[TobiasJones]

Re: Pattern for kepi

I have only made one kepi so far and will never try to manufacture them. It really is an art form, so I commend all the quality kepi makers out there.

For mine, I used the drawing/measurements from the Confederate Sketchbook like Mr. Laird. However, I could not just draft a pattern from the measurements. I had to make a 3-D model of paper piece by piece starting with the hat band. From there added little pieces and taped it all together until I had a paper/tape kepi. After that, I cut it apart and drafted a pattern including seam allowances and then put one together with some leftover jean I had stored away. And the pattern still had to be tweaked as I went to get the proper sizing.

In the end, it was challenging and took way more work than I expected. But then again, it was fun and that is why I make my own stuff as much as possible.

Evan O'Dell

[shillcw]

Re: Pattern for kepi

Thanks for the great info. I guess I should fill in the story a little more. I have some wool from a 1960's VMI great coat cape. Its just enough for a kepi and its the most correct wool I have ever seen. I guess I need to get with a maker and let him take charge. I have bought some kepi's in the past that were too big and sized them down, so I guess I was thinking it was easier than it is. Is there anyone up for the challenge??

[lojafan]

Re: Pattern for kepi

For mine, I used the drawing/measurements from the Confederate Sketchbook like Mr. Laird. However, I could not just draft a pattern from the measurements. I had to make a 3-D model of paper piece by piece starting with the hat band. From there added little pieces and taped it all together until I had a paper/tape kepi. After that, I cut it apart and drafted a pattern including seam allowances and then put one together with some leftover jean I had stored away. And the pattern still had to be tweaked as I went to get the proper sizing.

I did this same thing! Nice to know I'm not the only one!

[shillcw]

Re: Pattern for kepi

Thanks for all the help,
The reason why I ask is I have some wool I found that is period correct. The next best thing to do is, have a maker use my wool and build a kepi that way.

[tomono]

Re: Pattern for kepi

A Confederate sketchbook and Period Impressions 1858 Forage/Kepi 810 pattern is a good jumping off point. I've made a few not quite right yet but gitting better with each one. Just have to keep tweeking it till I get it right plus it gives me something to stride for.