Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

[Ken Myers]

I'm putting together a pair of Richmond Depot Trousers. I can sew all the other stuff, but I cannot figure out how to put the pockets into the trousers. I tried one way and than another, I just can't get it into my head how to do it. Please give me a hint on how to do it.
Yours,
Ken Myers

[Marc29thGA]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

I may be able to offer some advice - sending you a PM.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

Step 1: Sew facings to the pocket.
Here the facings are blue wool and the pocket bag is white cotton drill.

After basting the facings to the pocket bag, I tape off with masking tape so that my stitches are of uniform depth, allowing me to focus on getting a uniform stitch count.

I use a blanket stitch to attach the facing to the bag. I favor this method, especially if the trousers are made from jean cloth or other wool:cotton blend as it prevents fraying, much like a button hole stitch.

Here is a close-up as I pull the needle through:


Pulling the thread tight to complete the stitch:


A look at the whole piece:

Step 2: Attach pockets to trouser fronts at the notched area. 1/4" seam allowance.

Pin or baste the pocket in-place with the "good" (the sides that'll show) sides together. I use a backstitch here so I get a good finish when I turn and press in the next step.

What's a backstitch?
It is an interlocking stitch, which means if the thread breaks while wearing the garment, you don't lose the whole seam. Also, a running stitch results in a "saw-tooth" as you press the finished seam... I don't want that! ;)

Here's how you do a backstich:

Needle goes in...

In this pic, I am inserting the needle at the end of the row of stitching. It is a little hard to see which is the needle and which is the thread. Lemme know if you have trouble seeing what's going on.

Needle comes out...


Here is the finished piece from the cotton-side of the equation:


Here is the finished piece viewed from the other side:

Step 3: "Turn and Press"

OK, there's a little bit that goes into the simple instruction "turn and press". What this means is, you are have sewing two pieces with their right-sides together (it is inside-out) and you need to turn it right-side out and press the piece flat.

If the piece has corners (as this trouser pocket does), first you need to trim the piece before turning.

Here is a photo of the pocket, trimmed in preparation for turning:


Notice that outside corners are cut across the angle, close to (BUT NOT THROUGH!!!) the stitching. Inside corners are "snipped" at the corner right up to (NOT THROUGH!!) the stitching.

Step 4:
Close the pocket bags - I use a backstitch for this again. 1/4" seam allowance.

Step 5:
Turn and press the pocket bags. Topstitch the pocket bag 1/8" from the edge. Again, I use a backstitch for this. Your pockets take a lot of abuse, so I like to use a sturdy stitch.

Step 6:
Hand topstitch the pocket flap (this is the "mule ear") 1/4" from the edge. I use a backstitch for a nice finished look. However, a straight (or running) stitch is fine for this, also.

Here is a picture showing the finished pockets from both inside and ouside of the trousers:


Note the heart-shaped topstitching on the pocket flap:
I am making officer's trousers. Omit this stitching for enlisted trousers.

[faabala]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

I had this post bookmarked for reference. I am working on a new set of trousers and this was the best illustrated example on how to do the pockets. Now the photos are gone.

[JerseyMutt]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

I had this post bookmarked for reference. I am working on a new set of trousers and this was the best illustrated example on how to do the pockets. Now the photos are gone.

The photos in Mr. Wickett's post? I still see them.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

Hi!

I'm glad folks continue to find this useful!! Images are linked to Photobucket and are not password protected. They are appearing for me as I view the thread. ???

Also, "Mr. Wickett" is my dad's name. ;-)

[JerseyMutt]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

Also, "Mr. Wickett" is my dad's name. ;-)

I've been known to say the same thing when referred to as Mr. Warshaw. :)

[faabala]

Re: Help.. Making the pockets on Richmond Depot Trousers are killing me!!!

Must have been my computer. I see them now. Anyway a great post to bring back to the top. Thanks!