Where to Wear Your Haversack & Canteen?

[21stSCVI]

Hot to tar a haversack?

I'm looking for info to make an authentic tarred haversack. Any ideas?

Regards,

Ken Taylor

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Hot to tar a haversack?

Hallo Kamerad!

From, and courtesy of John Tobey:

"A few years ago, I decided to experiment with period waterproofing recipes. Bearing in mind that the original contractors were working under the same manufacturing parameters that exist today, I knew that the process had to be relatively simple, cheap, yet produce the desired effect.

I eventually found a recipe that seemed to fulfill these requirements. It involved three steps: starching, painting, and varnishing.

The starching part was the same as already discussed.

The paint formula was derived after reading Osman's "Potter's Patented Haversack and Knapsack Paint, 1864" article in the Summer 1994 edition of the Journal of the Company of Military Collectors and Historians. In it, he quoted the 1865 Quartermaster's Manual as specifying the waterproofing to consist of "...pure linseed oil, lamp-black, and spirits of turpentine," with a top coat of varnish. I went back to the period painting manuals and found a simple recipe for "oil paint." The actual proportions I used turned out as 1 cup of boiled linseed oil, four tubes of black artist's pigment (in lieu of lamp-black) and about an eighth-cup of turpentine.

Period paint manuals also pointed out that this paint wouldn't dry unless the temperature was at least 70 degrees, and the drier the air, the better. The original painting lofts had ducts heated by wood fires to improve production, but that's another story. I did the painting in my garage-shop and used a fan to circulate the air. I cheated on one paint job by robbing the de-humidfier from my cellar and using that in my shop -- that helped the drying process even more, but didn't do anything to encourage that "period" feeling I wanted to get from my experiment.

I found that 2 or 3 coats of paint was adequate. The secret here was to put it on as thin as possible. I got the best results from those throw-away foam paint brushes.

The final coat of black oil varnish is what *really* gives the piece its distinctive look and feel. I used the following recipe: 4 ounces of pine rosin, a tube of black artist's color, and a pint of oil all melted together, then thinned with a 1/2 cup of turpentine. One coat of this, and the job was finished. Again, the secret was to put it on as thin as possible.

A similar varnish recipe is frequently seen in period manuals, but instead of pine rosin, it usually called for copal resin. Copal was relatively expensive, and in my opinion an unlikely ingredient for wartime production. One book I used (Johnson's "The Gentleman's Home Book" 1889) made the following comment that encouraged me to use pine rosin: "...this varnish [using copal] is much superior to the common practice of using rosin."

At normal temperatures, the finish has a rubbery feel to it. In extreme heat, it turns greasy, and in the cold it turns rock hard. It will not crack like some of the other recipes using modern paints and, of course, has a distinctive smell.

Sorry if this post is a tad windy, but it's a favorite topic of mine!

John Tobey"

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: How to tar a haversack? Pt 2.

Hallo Kamerad!

From, and courtesy of Don Cheatham:

"I checked the site for the geocities.com/union_guard/ for instructions. Their prep details with the cornstarch are very accurate; it was a common way of the time to enhance drying time and prevent bleed-through. Their components of the paint recipe are accurate but their proportions are a bit off. Kerosene, not paint thinner, was used to dilute the spreading ability of the Liseed Oil based paint. A typical solution would be 3-2-1. Three parts boiled liseed oil, two parts paint, one part kerosene. A splash of Japan drier would be added. They used dry lampblack powder then. The lead additive added strength and dryability. The latter is outlawed today. If you go with sizing the material properly with cornstarch, mixing boiled linseed oil with dry or liquid lampblack and a splash of japan drier, you will have the basic product. Do 2 coats. The U.S. Specs for Federal haversacks, knapsacks, etc. call for 2 coats linseed oil and lampblack and 1 coat blackened Varnish. You will be amazed at how blacked varnish contributes to the pliability of the painted cloth. Not to metion the imperviousness to weather of the finished product. If you want to be "hi-speed" to the correct varnish, use "Zinsser Bullseye Shellac," clear. It is an original recipe started in 1849. It says so on the can. Modern oil paint products use a recipe derived from soybean oil and should also be avoided. It is far less combustiable than linseed oil based paint. Unfortunately, it also creates a brittle, inaccurate product. It's as wrong as latex paint. Latex is basically liquid rubber. It was developed during World War II, along with nylon guitar strings. Size is a matter of conjecture. I made one the basic length of a gum blanket but a bit narrower. I would love to hear more detailed information about painted blankets.

Dan Cheatum"

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: How to tar a haversack? Pt 3

Hallo Kamerad!

From, and courtesy of a poster whose name was not saved:

"Confederate Ordinance Manual Recipe:

There is a recipe from the 1863 Confederate Ordinance manual which I have not tried. Use at your own risk.

Materials:

28 Parts lampblack
1 Part Japan varnish
73 Parts boiled Linseed oil
1 Part spirits of turpentine
1 Part litharge (substitute Japan Dryer for this. Litharge is lead monoxide, and is very poisonous.)

Method:
Mix the ingredients, using 1 oz. (2 tbsp) of Japan dryer per quart of paint.
If you don't want the paint to totally soak the cloth, size it with cornstarch as in the period recipe above.

Apply 2-3 coats until the desired sheen is obtained."

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: How to tar a haversack? Pt 4

Hallo Kamerad!

From, and courtesy of a poster whose name was not saved:

This recipe is an approximation, since the original recipe specified "litharge," or lead monoxide (PbO) which is extremely poisonous.

Materials:

Boiled linseed oil
Mineral spirits paint thinner
Lampblack (comes in tubes or dry powder)
Japan dryer
Corn starch

Method:

Make a sizing by boiling about a quart of water and adding cornstarch mixed in cold water until the mixture becomes a little syrupy.
Paint the cloth with the cornstarch sizing and let dry.
Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with one part of mineral spirits. Add lamp black until the paint is a very opaque black. Add one oz. (2 tbsp) of Japan dryer per pint.
With a brush, paint the cloth with the blackened linseed oil and let dry. This can take several days.
Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with two parts of mineral spirits. Add one oz. of Japan dryer per pint.
With a brush, paint the cloth with the clear linseed oil mixture and let it dry. This can also take several days. Two coats of this mixture should give the results you want.
(You can omit the cornstarch sizing if you want, but the oil-based paint will pretty much soak the cloth.)"

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: How to tar a haversack? Pt 5

Hallo Kamerad!

While not a period process, I will put this up for a comparison between period and modern methods only.

From, and courtesy of a poster whose name was not saved:

"While this recipe is obviously not authentic, it produces the same look and feel as the original methods. The final product looks, feels and wears as close to the original as most of us can approximate today. However, you need to make a decision as to whether you want to "fake it" with a modern approximation when a good period recipe is available.

Materials:

Wallpaper sizing. Get it pre-mixed and ready to use.
Flat black or semi-gloss interior latex paint ***
Boiled linseed oil
Mineral spirits paint thinner
Japan dryer
(All of these materials are available at any good paint store)

Method:

Using a roller, paint both sides of the cloth with the wallpaper sizing and let it dry. It should take an hour or less. The sizing will prevent the paint from soaking the cloth, and it will give it some "tooth" for paint adhesion.
Using a roller, paint one side of the cloth with the black latex paint. Let it dry overnight.
Mix 2 parts of mineral spirits with 1 part boiled linseed oil. Add Japan dryer. Use 1 oz. (2 tablespoons) per pint of paint.
With a brush, paint the sized side of the cloth with the linseed oil mix. Let it dry. This may take several days, depending on temperature and humidity. It's NOT wise to let it dry in the house.
Paint on two additional coats of the linseed oil mix. Let it dry between coats.

*** There is a variation of this recipe that works very well also. Instead of using plain latex paint, mix 2 parts of latex paint with one part of boiled linseed oil. Stir it thoroughly, then follow the instructions above."

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Richmond Depot]

Where is the original?

Does anyone happen to know what historical repository houses the original Moses Alexander haversack in their collection? I recently purchased one from an approved vendor on this list and am not sure of it's authenticity. Mainly I wonder about the machine sewn strap.

[Michael McComas]

Re: Where is the original?

Mr. Hanes,

The original is in the Museum of the Confederacy collection. Just about everything you would want to know about this artifact can be found in A Confederate Sketchbook by M. R. Thomas. The strap does not appear to be machine sewn. Thomas noted that it was "single-thread stitching". He usually specifically notes machined seams where they occur. He also indicates that the seams of the bag itself are french felled.

I highly recommend this book for any reenactor or living historian. It contains detailed diagrams of many archetypal items in the hobby.

[Richmond Depot]

Re: haversack seams

Thank you very much Mr. McComas, I had completely forgotten about Mike's book.

[21stSCVI]

Re: How to tar a haversack? Pt 5

Thank you so much for the info...

Regards,

Ken Taylor

[Jake Hill]

Canteen Strap and Haversack

Gentlemen,

I have been trying to decide which is period correct, wear ing your haversack high above your waist or low below on your waist? Also same question for proper positioning of the canteen high or low? I have looked through numerous books and photographs and they seem to wear them high and low. Which one is more period correct? If this has already been covered please accept my apologies.

Thank You
Jacob Hill

[markj]

Re: Canteen Strap and Haversack

Hi,

Short answer: Wear it in a way that is most comfortable to you. Wartime photos show troops wearing haversacks both "high" and "low" but try lugging around a weight equivalent to several days' rations and you'll quickly find that "higher" is invariably "better," just as it is with canteens and knapsacks.

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[bAcK88]

Re: Canteen Strap and Haversack

Here's the link to a thread that you might find useful.

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1758&highlight=haversacks+canteen

Hope this helps.

[47thNYReb]

Blue line haversack stamp

I am making a few New England/Massachusetts/Blue-line haversacks and am having trouble finding a clear image of the maker stamp on the front flap. If anyone knows where I can download this information I would appreciate it. Also, Are there any marks on the inside that I am unaware of? I have checked several sources and cannot find any reference to anything other than the front stamping. Thank you for any help that can be provided, Thomas N. Rachal, 47thNYVI. P.S. I am not making these for any commercial venture, just Christmas presents for my pards. I didn't want any vendors thinking that I trying to steal their research for my own financial gain.

[RyanBWeddle]

Re: Blue line haversack stamp

I am making a few New England/Massachusetts/Blue-line haversacks and am having trouble finding a clear image of the maker stamp on the front flap. If anyone knows where I can download this information I would appreciate it. Also, Are there any marks on the inside that I am unaware of? I have checked several sources and cannot find any reference to anything other than the front stamping. Thank you for any help that can be provided, Thomas N. Rachal, 47thNYVI. P.S. I am not making these for any commercial venture, just Christmas presents for my pards. I didn't want any vendors thinking that I trying to steal their research for my own financial gain.

Not every haversack of this style has a stamp. The item in the Strayer collection in Ohio doesn't...they aren't 100% necessary to complete the haversack.