Correct Buttons for Shirt & Trousers

[SheZab]

Re: Correct Buttons for Shirt & Trousers

Don't forget to use the proper thread too!! If you care enough to find the correct replacement buttons, then I suggest using the proper thread as well. Cotton or linen will both work. If you want to be even more finicky you can find out which was available to the unit/persona you will be portraying. I suggest buying thread from a source that deals in authentic goods, or using a brand that has been given an authenticity "seal of approval" as it were. If you use a poly or polyblend thread it wont wear, discolor/fade , or settle like a natural fiber will. Just from a seamstress' P.O.V. and I didn't see anyone that mentioned it yet. If they did I apologize...

-Rachel M Zaborowski

[Nordic Lass]

Re: Correct Buttons for Shirt & Trousers

For trousers I suggest 4 hole pewter, tin-back tin or paper-back tin in the 5/8" size. These are all perfectly appropriate. I've seen a lot of seamstresses use the 1/2 inch for the suspender and fly closure, these are simply not large enough to hold up. I also suggest using a 2 hole bone "backer" button on the inside of your trousers. First, it adds strength to the outside button and second, should the outside button fail, the inside button can be used to button your suspenders. Hope this helps. Janet Zaharias.

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

Re: Correct Buttons for Shirt & Trousers

Shirt-under: Um...assuming that we're not talking about the pattern the shirt was/was not cut from - I would start and stop with small china buttons (as evidenced on many, many, many originals). These might be plain faced white porcelain buttons, pie plated, or even colorized (didn't the Arabia have BARRELS of these on board when she sank?).

Trousers: I was thinking bone, BUT not Ivory...or perhaps tin (though yes, it has a tendancy to cut threads, particularly if the buttons are not attached with a threaded shank).

While it's becomming cliche, google 'Steamship Arabia' there are HUNDREDS of pictures online...will also give you insight into buttons for overshirts, and buttons for coats.

Here's their link directly: http://www.1856.com/

Paul B.

[Canton Zouave]

Re: Correct Buttons for Shirt & Trousers

For your trowsers I would use quality paper backed tin buttons. The secret to having them stay on is the proper technique in sewing that button on. Remember as you sew it will appear as an "X" pattern on the front, but form a square in the back. Dont cinch the thread tight, you will need some slack for the next part. After you have sewn on the button you are now going to build a shank on the slacked thread between the button on the cloth. What happens is the pressure of the suspender on the thread, along with the button it actually shears off that thread. By taking thread and wrapping it around the forming shank and then pearl your stitch, it will reinforce the button stitch, thus making a thread shank. Remember, however, that if your trowsers (yes, one of the 19th century spellings) are not properly fitted and you dont have some slack in the caboose for movement, setting, squatting and the like, even shanking will not prevent button shrapnel.

As for the shirt, well, I would like to say, use it to clean you musket...I will say a nice glass button or japaned tin button will work as well as any for what it is. Keep in mind you need a button sized to the original hole. Since these buttons are not heavily stressed a standard button stitch will work well.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[cprljohnivey]

Re: Correct Buttons for Shirt & Trousers

Tin Buttons:

I have noticed that they will eventually cut through your thread. When you go to sew them on... use a thick thread and really sew it on good. Keep extra tin buttons in your housewife.