Federal Issue Shirt Question

[BRHubbard]

Greetings all,

I am doing a spot of research on the square-cut single-button Federal wartime issue shirt depicted in William L. Brown III's "Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America, 1750-1900 and further discussed here http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...=5576#post5576

The question is regarding the shape of the neck opening and the fitting of the collar. In examining the photos and line drawings in the earlier publication I noticed the pleats at rear center, gathering on both sides of the neckline forward of the external shoulder straps, and the depiction of an "interior shoulder reinforcement". I was later told that the slit made for the neck and chest opening was essentially a "T" as opposed to an oval, in other words straight across the center (shoulder) line and bisected perpendicularly down the front of the shirt, and that the "interior shoulder reinforcement" actually served as a gusset to fit the collar along with the aforementioned gathers.

I have not tried to assemble one yet but was hoping to hear from those who have either examined an original, have additional research available, or have experience assembling reproductions that are based on solid research regarding the verity of this information.

The question may be answered in one of the articles listed below which I am still trying to seek out, but was hoping for additional insight from the researchers here.

"The Union Army Standard Size and Make Shirt", Journal of the Company of Military Historians , Vol. XLVII, No. 3, Fall 1995
Adolphson, Steven J. and Larry Strayer - 'Rather Coarse and Scratchy: U.S. Army Shirts of the 1860's.' The Company Wag November 1994, No.8., pp 1-7.
"A Tale of Two Shirts". THE JOURNAL OF THE COMPANY OF MILITARY HISTORIANS, Volume XLV, Number 2.

Thank you in advance!

[RyanBWeddle]

Re: Federal Issue Shirt Question

This was a common construction technique on shirts going back many decades prior to the Civil War. Very common technique if you've ever since 18th C. garments.

Basically when you insert the folded over gussets that form triangles of a sort into the top of the T it opens up the neck a bit into more of an oval shape, then with a little gathering at the back top of the neck when attaching the collar rounds it all out nicely. Sorry I don't have those articles right on hand, or any photos, but that is how it works.

Then the shoulder re-inforcement is sewn in, from the sleeve cap along the top of the should, then over the gusset to the collar...

Does that make sense?

[cprljohnivey]

Re: Federal Issue Shirt Question

The US Pattern book has the shirt with oval cutout on the neck. It also only has the one exterior reinforcements. The pattern is a copy of a shirt in the Smithsonian. I am currently working on a shirt myself and am using information from the US Pattern book, thoughts on mens shirts, the columbia rifles research book and believe it or not, Charlie Child's Holliday Shirt Pattern. Of all these sources, I find the US Pattern book the most useful as it actually contains the pattern on a grid (graph paper) from which you can draw your own on pattern paper. I find the Holliday pattern helpful for scale purposes as I have said, I had to draw my own pattern from measurements and sketches in the pattern book.

[Cameron]

Re: Federal Issue Shirt Question

I sent you a pm

[Canton Zouave]

Re: Federal Issue Shirt Question

The "T" is cut and spread open by two gussets on each side. One sewn to the outside and one to the inside, hand stitches. (or as Ryan says where a piece is folded) I use two piece on each side. This will open the neck opening. In real world sewing, the T can actually be cut to a very deep ,but not very wide, "V" to each side of the vertical center line. In this way, it aids in opening up the neck a little bit more. The "T" is about 12-13 inches across "-" and 13 inches down "|" The gusset is a 3 inch at the base triangle. This will make a 17 inch neck opening for the shirt. The wider the gusset the bigger the neck opening, or you can lengthen the top of the T a little. Period shirts, when being made would sometimes be scooped out, or a slight curve cut into the T once the gussets were set to give a little better shape and form. The collar would then be gathered, or box pleated in the back, or as in the drawing in Bill's book, gather in places on the front. The collar will run about 20-21 inches long, set it by hand and then turn it to the inside and whip stitch. Several 1851 shirts were then top stitched through all layers around the collar. You will be surprised how much that opening will take on the round shape as the collar is added. The key is to take you time, test fit, then sew, or buy a good seam ripper. I will look for some images to share over the next day or so.

[BRHubbard]

Re: Federal Issue Shirt Question

Thank you all for the insight and references.

Todd just a point of clarification in your post, I followed everything you said apart from the second reference to the collar "running about 20-21 inches long". Is that a reference to the total length of the collar or the raw neck opening on the body before gathering/pleating/darting? I assumed that the QM specs of a 17" collar meant the overall collar size as opposed to the size of the neck it is meant to fit (as in with the button closed the 17" collar turns into a 16"). Even with my 15 1/2" neck I can basically just close that 17" collar with little to no extra room.

I'm making fairly good progress with the project using the reference materials I have and the tips generously shared by other forum members. On a side note, in "Thoughts On Men's Shirts" I'm inclined to believe that the shirt photographed is not the same one drawn. There are some features that do not seem consistent between the photo and drawing that become fairly clear under magnification. One item specifically is the cuff; in the drawing the second cuff piece is applied to the inside of the sleeve, but in the photograph there is a clear seam on the outside of the garment at the cuff. Also the 'puckers' caused by the fell stitches along the long seams appear to be on different panels in the photos than indicated in the drawing. In other words, the seam is shown felled to the front panel in one instance but the photo seems to indicate it being pressed toward the back.

For the most part we're talking about minor details that are only pertinent to someone actually trying to reproduce the garment, but I'd be curious what the story is or if anyone else noticed that.

Also still have my eye out for the "The Union Army Standard Size and Make Shirt" article from the Journal of the Company of Military Historians , Vol. XLVII, No. 3, Fall 1995 if anyone happens to have a copy to share.

Thank you again!