Cleaning an 1842

[Mcguire]

Picked up an 1842 last year after relying on my Enfield since I started the hobby. One of the reasons I chose the Enfield initially was the blueing offered an easier alternative in regards to keeping a rifle clean in the field. However, when I saw this defarbed 69 being offered for sale by Dan Wambaugh I couldn't help myself.
After the first event I cleaned the rifle to about it's original brightness after having to resort to 400 grit paper. When I got back from Shiloh the rifle was pretty rough but I didn't want to continue to use harsh methods to clean the finish. I ended up using #000 steel wool which removed the rust but left discoloration on the metal.
What would a rifle in the field have looked like? Would they have a patina or would they be bright. I know that measures such as using crushed brick and ash were used but how often would that have been practical.
What degree of cleanliness on a rifle with a finish like the 42 do forum members strive for. Would like to hear from anyone who would like to chime in.

[KPavia]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

This may not be very authentic, but I clean mine very, very, very thoroughly. I hate rust on a weapon of any kind. During an event, I just suck it up and keep the bore clear. When I get home, I completely disassemble it, scrub it down with steel wool, clean out the barrel with and oil it down.

[cwpilgrim]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

Make it shine.
After all, it is government property, and your life depends on it.

[Michael Comer]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

I try to keep my rubbed down during an event and keep rust off as much as I can. My barrel does have a patina but it can also get some shine on it when cleaned up well and is rust free for inspections etc. Remember Dave, a Cracker's gun should be cleaner than he is.

[David Fox]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

Carrying a tin of clear shoe polish helps in the field. You can coat the entire weapon with it and reapply periodically during the day in moments. It significantly retards, but imperfectly prevents, staining and rust.

[Pennvolunteer]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

I carry a small bottle of olive oil with me, and it doubles for a few drops in my frying pan and for oiling my musket in the field. I also keep a little piece of steel wool in my tool pouch for general rust in the field. Then when I get home, like Kenny, I completely disassemble and do the full cleaning. For rust removal, I have used ash, brick dust, and steel wool. I haven't used it yet, but I know some guys use oven clearner and they have really shiney barrels, but I can't personally recommend it since I haven't used it. Period cleaning products I have read about that were available included ash, brick dust, or burnishing bars. I had an article in my research sources on cleaning of muskets that I am looking for, but can't find it at this moment. If I do, I'll post it.

[Alexander Vasquez]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

I can suggest that a cloth in your implement pouch that has a glob of bore butter put onto it and folded over can be rubbed onto the weapon after the ash scrubbing. This helps to seal away moisture. I wipe the weapon down with the stuff prior to leaving for an event, during the event (after a cleaning), and after a thorough tear down and cleaning after an event. This ensures that I have a clean weapon prior to use and makes it easier to clean during an event.

Alexander Vasquez
Late of Co. C, 15 IA

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

Hallo!

The heretical observation is that modern reproductions are made of hard steel, whereas the originals were softer iron or at best softer iorn furniture with a mild steel barrel.

The net result, and difference, is that the modern repros have a tendency to start to surface rust faster.

The other side of the coin is that iron guns that are Period maintained tend to be "greased/oiled" inside and out. Many modern lads use modern methods and chemically or abrasively strip the metal of thier guns down to naked metal.

The combination of the former and the later, complicates and compounds the problem.

If historical accuracy and "authenticity" is a goal, then the ideal would be to try to maintain one's kit in the manner in which it was done in the Period which tends to produce the look of kit maintianed with period methods?

On the other side of coin, I know lads who car wax their gun's metal, and floor wax their gun's stocks.

Oh, just two asides...

For a few years, 1822-1831, trying to make things easier... the government browned the M1822's (M1816 TYpe II's). That was dropped with the Type III's which were returned to bright (save for colored locks and hammers).

And, without looking it up, IIRC, the Confederate Ordnance manual prohibited the use of burnishing rods believing they would damage barrels.

Curt


From Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1861, for the Use of Soldiers (applies to the Springfield Models 1855, 1861, and 1863, and more generally to the Enfield Models 1853 and 1858), under "Rules for Cleaning":

It is not essential for the musket to be dismounted {disassembled} every time that it is cleaned; for, after firing it in fine weather, or when there has been no chance for the wet to get between the barrel and the stock, it can be perfectly cleaned in the following manner.

Put a piece of rag or soft leather on the top of the cone, and let the hammer down upon it; pour a gill of water into the muzzle carefully, so that it does not run down the outside; put a plug of wood into the muzzle, and shake the gun up and down, changing the water repeatedly until it comes out clear. When clear, withdraw the leather, and stand the musket on the muzzle for a few moments; then wipe out the barrel (as given in the second rule for cleaning {see below}), and also wipe the exterior of the lock and the outside of the barrel around the cone and cone-seat first with a damp rag, and then with a dry one, and lastly with a rag that has been slightly oiled. In this way, all the dirt due to the firing may be removed without taking out a screw.

2nd. Screw the wiper on to the end of the ramrod, and put a piece of dry cloth, or tow, round it, sufficient to keep it from chafing the grooves of the barrel; wipe the barrel quite dry, changing or drying the cloth two or three times.

3d. Put no oil into the vent, as it will clog the passage, and cause the first primer to miss fire; but, with a slightly oiled rag on the wiper, rub the bore of the barrel,... and immediately insert the tompion into the muzzle.

[Daniel]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

Page 192 in The Ordnance Manual For the Use of The Officers of The Confederate State Army states "In cleaning the arms, great care should be observed to [I]preserve the qualities essential to service [I] rather than to obtain a bright polish." I have used the method that Curt quoted from the Rule of the Management and Cleaning the Rifle Musket... on my Enfield. I think it is the same cleaning method in the CS Ordnance Manual. The exception is that I use 000 or 0000 steel wool and oil on the outside of the barrel and other parts. It removes the rust but does not hurt the barrel. The result is barrel that is a grey finish now but is pretty rust resistance. And once in a while I will remove the barrel and stick the breach of the barrel in a bucket of soapy water to clean the breech with a cleaning rod really good.

Dan Stewart

[Tkessen]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

There is a wonderful product called "flitz." It's made in Germany and removes all manner of rust and shines metal very well. It's pretty cheap, but not authentic. I believe they have a website. Just google flitz.

[toptimlrd]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

A friend shared this tip with me while not authentic does greatly reduce the rust on my 61 Springfield. He reccomended using Jonson's paste wax on the weapon (the stuff is found in most stores in the cleaning section, most people use it for furniture and floors). I did that on my weapon before Shiloh (if you were there you know how wet it was at times) and I had very minimal rust to clean up when i got home; the only place I had any rust was in areas the wax would have worn off such as under barrel bands where it was scraped off, on the butt plate from the ground, and a little on the lock plate; that was it and it was greatly reduced from what I get at an event with dry weather.

In the field I keep a small metal tin filled with patches that have been pre-oiled and wipe down the metal several times a day with one. As far as complete tear down, I do that after every third or so event with fair weather and after every event that has been damp.

[GWagner]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

Taylor,

Flitz has about 200 different products. Which do you use specifically for rust removal? Is it as harsh as Birchwood Casey's Rust Remover? Does it discolor the metal?

http://www.flitz.com/t-shophome.aspx

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

Hallo!

That would be "Flitz Metal Polish." It comes in a silvery tube with white and blue lettering. I still have some in my giant tube "Made in West Germany" from 1986. (I misplaced it a few times, and have several small more recent tubes.)



It used to be rare and hard to find. Now I see Flitz polish everywhere.

It is indeed, somewhat of a miracle product on bright metals. It chemically lifts dirt and oxidation (brown or black) without abrasion. It also leaves a film that is corrosive resistant.

A superior product is "Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish." It also works chemically. I used to have to go to a biker shop to find it, now it is fairly common. And like Flitz, it is available on line easily enough.

When you use a little on your finger tip on a soft rag, the rag comes away black even from a clean-looking barrel or lock.

Word of WARNING!

I use Flitz to fade bogus Italian cyanide pseudo color case hardening colors on say carbines.... and revolver frames, loading levers, and hammers to more closely match Period originals. You can quickly remove "color case hardening" down to bare metal.

Curt

[john.vansickle]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

I concur completely with Curt. My original shooters (M61 Norwich, P53, and P58 Enfields) have more of a dull grey appearance rather than the "chrome plated" look of most reproductions. I use white wood ash on a damp rag in the field to clean the exterior of the barrel. The other thing I do is saturate the metal with oil while at home. The metal is porous enough to soak up the oil and hold it, preventing water from attacking the metal over the course of an event. The same holds true for the stock in that I build up the finish with boiled linseed oil. This is a period "soft" finish that when done properly, prevents water from penetrating. In addition to the linseed oil acting as a moisture barrier, it also does not scratch or chip in the same way as a hard finish like varnish (includes polyurethane) or laquer. Once a hard finish is scratched or otherwise damaged, the finish is permanently compromised until refinished. It seems as though many repros are given finishes to hide "weird" patterns in the grain and figure as well as the odd colors of the wood. In fact, I've stripped repro stocks (from a well known Japanese company) to discover automotive bondo that was painted to hide a factory repair... anything to make a buck I guess. Manufacturers use gel stains to hide the natural character of the wood (which are atypical to original guns) and then apply a sprayed on polyurethane finish so this is something that will need to be compensated for when developing a maintenence plan for your weapon. IMHO, a lot of work can be avoided by carefully studying the wood (or with the help of a friend understands and can read wood) to pick out a gun during initial purchase which will stand up to refinishing and/or mainenence. While removing the barrel may not always be necessary, keep in mind that if fouled water gets into the lock mortise it will stain or even damage the wood. Speaking to this, I use a period technique of rubbing warmed beeswax into the exposed wood of the lock mortise to prevent damage from moisture. I do this by warming the wax and dribbling drops into the mortise and then rub in vigerously with cheesecloth. My original Pennsyvania rifle appears to have been treated in this manner during it's working lifetime. One 19th century source, Ezekial Baker's "Remarks on Rifle Guns", he advises to use "one's own water" and sweetoil (olive oil). Speaking from experience, do this well away from camp as it stinks to high heaven. Anwyay, just a few thoughts. I hope I didn't digress to much.
YMHS,
John Van Sickle

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Cleaning an 1842

I keep a tin that contains a mixture that I picked up from some 18th Century enactor/trecker/longhunter types. It is a mix of beeswax and some sort of fat (beef fat, tallow, whatever). I use it on the bare metal surfaces of my muskets to keep off the rust due to morning dew, handling with sweaty hands, or rain. I usually thoroughly brighten-up my muskets every couple years or so. But just routine maintenance for me entails preventing rust and shining up as best I can with rottenstone or fire ash (at events) or 0000 steel wool between events.

Recently, I've been brightening up a borrowed M1861 that I used for Shiloh... It had a hard life before it came to me and its condition had (in my opinion) dipped too far below the standard than would have been acceptable during the war... So, I'm trying to return it in better condition than it was given to me. =)