bagged linings in jackets

[Doughboy]

I have recently noticed a trend in the construction of reproduction jackets, that of bagging the linings. Bagging is a technique where the lining is not attached to the body and only sewn together along the facings and hem. It is very much a time saving expediency and according to several very knowledgeable people I have queried, not documented as period correct. The concensus is that it may have been done as a time saver but no existing jackets that any of these people have examined display this feature. This brings up two questions;

Is this a period correct technique? If anyone has examined an original that is bagged it would be interesting to know of it.

Are people buying jackets, even from some "quality" vendors, that are not period correct, or demonstrably so and paying "full price"? If a piece is done this way it should result in significant cost savings, provided one is aware of and OK with this expediency

[CSchneider]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Of all the original jackets I've examined, I've seen one, and only one, done with a bagged lining. It was a government-produced piece.

-Craig Schneider

[Doughboy]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Craig,
Can you provide more info on this piece;
type, produced when/where
Where does it now reside, any pix etc.
Thanks

[CSchneider]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

The "Tucker" jacket, a North Carolina-produced piece now at the MOC. The complete lining, sleeve linings already attached, was sewn to the body along the front facings and bottom, then closed at the cuffs.

-Craig Schneider

[Doughboy]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Great, thanks

[rbruno]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Chris,
I have seen a few that have had the lining sewn in the way you are talking about, but not the sleeves. I have seen the lining attached to the cuff in two different ways. One, sewn then then turn in so you don't see the stitches and whip stitched in the end. I have pictures of both, but that will take some time to find.

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

May I ask for a more precise definition of "bagging"?
I associate the term with a process whereby the lining is laid against the garment with "right sides" together, the perimeter sewn, then the whole thing turned and pressed.

Would you consider a lining be "bagged" where facings were attached to the lining, then the whole thing set into the coat, "wrong sides" together?

Thanks!

[Doughboy]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Thanks Rob. I look forward to seeing them

[Doughboy]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

John,
It is my understanding that bagging is where the lining is not attached to the body anywhere except perimeter facings and hem. This causes the lining to be pulled out especially the sleeves when removing the jacket. A lining should be set into the body at the armscye at the very least then the sleeve linings are set to the lining, not presewn to the lining before assembly

[CSchneider]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

May I ask for a more precise definition of "bagging"?
I associate the term with a process whereby the lining is laid against the garment with "right sides" together, the perimeter sewn, then the whole thing turned and pressed.

Would you consider a lining be "bagged" where facings were attached to the lining, then the whole thing set into the coat, "wrong sides" together?

Thanks!

I assumed Chris' definition of "bagging" refers to a manner of inserting the lining that does not allow for the lining to be attached to the body at the armscye--as would be the case when you attach the sleeve lining to the body lining before you sew the body lining into the coat. If that is the case, yes, I've only ever seen it in one original C.S. garment. I don't believe we're taking about attaching the lining to the body "right sides" together, turning a pressing, basting the armscye, and sewing the sleeve lining into place, correct? That, of course, shows up quite a bit in period garments.

-Craig Schneider

[Doughboy]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Craig, that is correct.
Thanks

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

OK... So it is the lack of attachment of the lining to the armscye that is the key feature.

Thanks, gents!

[rbruno]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

My understanding is the same as John's

[Doughboy]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

FYI on the Tucker jacket at the MOC:

Mr. Wilson,

The lining of the Tucker jacket in our collection is, indeed, sewn at the armscye. The sleeve lining and bodice lining are both turned under and whip stitched to the sleeve/body seam. Like you, I have never seen a Confederate jacket or coat where the lining was not sewn to the armscye.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.

Robert F. Hancock
Senior Curator & Director of Collections

Museum of the Confederacy
1201 East Clay Street
Richmond, VA 23219

[rbruno]

Re: bagged linings in jackets

Maybe I am also missing part of this, but why couldn't a jacket be "bagged", turned right side out, and then have the lining attached at the armscye with the wrong sides together?

Chris,
I am still looking for my pictures.