What kind of fabric for my first CS shell jacket?

[Pvt.Gustavsson]

What kind of fabric would be suitable for a Confederate shell jacket, something that you can buy in a fabric store, and where? It'll be my first jacket, so it'll be somewhat like a practice. I don't need something that is a 100% authentic reproduction but at least 100% natural fibers, wool or a cotton wool blend, I guess.

Also, is there anywhere online where you can find a good pattern AND description of how to assemble it, something for a first timer.

Sincerely,

Pvt. Mikael Gustafsson

[Tyler Underwood]

Re: What kind of fabric for my first CS shell jacket?

Mikael, before I start going into helping you to answer your question, I need to point out that on your very first post you have failed to follow Rule #1 here and that is to sign your first and last name to every post. I would encourage you to review them. Secondly "I don't need something that is a 100% authentic reproduction." I would guess that you might be in the wrong forum. The AC community strives for authenticity and this is not the place where you find mainstream junk for sale. (Buy Sell and Trade Rule #4) So again I would encourage re reading the rules that you agreed to upon joining this forum back in 2008. I was going to type out some information that would help you out, that was until I seen that you posted the same question on Szabo's forum and claimed that "I am just to lazy to search" Here is that link in case you forgot about it. http://www.cwreenactors.com/forum/sh...S-shell-jacket So with that being said I believe that I am just too lazy to help you answer your question.

[Pvt.Gustavsson]

Re: What kind of fabric for my first CS shell jacket?

Tyler, I happened to just stumble upon my old post here from last year. I don't know where I didn't write my first and last name, I did on the post above. Anyway, I was simply out for something that would help me PRACTICE on making a shell jacket, as far as construction etc. As far as being lazy... not to be taken too seriously I guess I just didn't feel like looking all over the place at the time. I posted something last night on how I was trying to upload a picture of a shell jacket. I wanted a opinion on if it would work for Sailors Creek or not. I am not sure if I signed with my first and last name.

Mikael Gustafsson

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: What kind of fabric for my first CS shell jacket?

Mikael,

I have had good luck with County Cloth (http://www.crchilds.com/) patterns over the years. I have made Richmond Depot, Columbus Depot, and their 4-Button Jacket. Their instructions are "sparse", to say the least, but are very to-the-point. I like that. Others don't.

You can get County Cloth (or just about any other) patterns from Needle & Thread in Gettysburg (http://woodedhamlet.com/about_us/index.html). They also sell just about any fabric and notion you could want for making authentic jacket.

As far as "Practice" - Just buy something cheap. Fiber content doesn't really matter. Most pattern makers will recommend that you make a "muslin" so that you can see how the pattern fits you "as is", allowing you to make adjustments to fit the pattern to the particulars of your frame before you cut the pricey fabric "for real". This also gives you a chance to see how the thing is supposed to go together.

When you have questions on construction, please come back here and feel free to post. There are many of us who have sewn for years who can help you.

Have fun!

[Ambrose Bierce]

Re: What kind of fabric for my first CS shell jacket?

Having made many jackets, trousers, etc., over the years, I also encourage people starting out to start small. Learning stitching techniques and getting your "rhythm" down is important, especially when making things by hand. These projects include poke sacks, handkerchiefs, and utensil bags and are all great for improving your skills. A bonus is that when you are finished you not only have practiced, but you have also made something useful. From there I would move up to a shirt kit.

Tackling a jacket or trousers can be daunting, and in the case of County Cloth patterns and kits an assumption is made that the person working with them has basic knowledge of sewing techniques and how to assemble clothing. Without that knowledge the instructions do not provide enough detail to work on the projects effectively without some coaching from someone who knows what they are doing. Wambaugh and White kits offer very detailed instructions and are easier to follow (the photos really help), but again, you need to have knowledge of how to sew and what stitches are appropriate for the seam at hand.

So, I would recommend starting with a pre-cut kit before I obtained a pattern and materials (pattern layout, grain of the materials, and other subtleties are another subject altogether) and attempted this on your own. Good shears are a must if you decide to go this route. You will also need a good steam iron and some extra patience.

There are several good books out there that are worth investing in, too, such as Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America and Rural Pennsylvania Clothing which admittedly has a Rev War lean due to the garments studied and photographed. However, the stitching techniques and instructions on some of the garments translate directly to what was done in the 19th century since sewing is sewing no matter what time period you portray, though you can get away with some machining with CW garments which makes for faster assembly. Note I didn't say "easier" since there is still a lot of work that goes into the garment and if you don't know how to use a machine, at $35+ a yard for some material that could lead to an expensive mistake. Which leads us back to my initial part of the post: start small, and take your time.

I trust this helps. Good luck.