Top Stitching

[HOG.EYE.MAN]

Re: Top Stitching

Actually the jacket was made for me by a lady and isn't of sutler row quallity.

Right off the bat, I raise suspicion on whether the garment was made properly at all. Doesn't sound like it.

Robert,

Sounds like a classic case of defarbazation :wink_smil

Just giving you some friendly advice here.......I've seen uniforms in the past where individuals tried to redo (defarb) the stitching, and each time the results turned out crappy. Especially redone button holes

I agree with Ryan...... You may want to buy a new one.

Good Luck!

[65thgainf]

Re: Top Stitching

Jason, I had the same problem. I went to the library and found a couple of nice books that had illustrations and directions on types of stitches and sewing in general.

I just don't have the patience that I did when I was younger (now 40). I found out my cousin was a great sewer and she went over my jacket with handstitching.

Now, someone that REALLY knows and has the experience makes handstitching look almost like machine stitching - look at some of the originals. Some would swear that it was done by machine.

I would LOVE to be able to make my own uniforms - but just don't have the time, patience and experience at it.

Jerry (Ghost)Holmes
28th Ga. Inf, Co -G
123 N.Y. Co D

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Top Stitching

Jason

I strongly recomend that you get familiar with original uniforms and their constrution. Since you are in GA I recomend you hit the Atlanta History Center and pay close attention to the small details of the sewing and materials. Once you see allot of originals with the eye to construction, you will see what we are talking about.


Good luck and keep on with the good work :wink_smil

[markmason]

Re: Top Stitching

Mark,

Regarding your post on buttonholes, here's a tip for you.

Instead of cutting the buttonholes with a razor blade or scissors (you used the word "slit") try punching the hole with a chisel.

It's funny you mention this, that is exactly how I prepare my "slits". I was refering to removing the existing thread, I may have not clarified myself. I was trying to be brief on the assumption the slits are already cut. :wink_smil

I definatley agree with others and buy one from a reputable sutler/tailor.

[GaReb52nd]

Re: Top Stitching

Right off the bat, I raise suspicion on whether the garment was made properly at all. Doesn't sound like it.
I agree with Ryan...... You may want to buy and new one.

Good Luck!

I'm just wondering how yall come to the conclusion that it wasn't made right just by me telling you that the stitching wasn't done by hand? You haven't even seen the jacket...so just wondering what info that I typed in would lead you to believe it is crappy made..What I meant by "it isn't sutler row quality" is that it is not a mainstream jacket. This lady has been making uniforms for years so she has a lot of experience under her belt. Maybe this was a misunderstanding on what I meant to type and what I actually typed. :wink_smil

Don't get me wrong guys, I apprecaite all the info that everyone has given me, but it seems that reading some of the other messages in other threads on the forum that some people on the AC board give info in a condesending manor. It's not real reassuring for those of us wanting to improve our impression to feel like we are being belittled. Maybe I am taking it the wrong way.

[HOG.EYE.MAN]

Re: Top Stitching

I'm just wondering how yall come to the conclusion that it wasn't made right......

Here's why:

I want to go over my button holes and the stitching on my collar and the front of my coat.

Your button holes were machine sewn and you're asking us how to redo (defarb) them? So, after reading this, I've come to the conclusion that this product isn't too authentic.

Actually the jacket was made for me by a lady and isn't of sutler row quality.

I've heard horror stories usually of old lady's trying to sew up Charlie Childs kits and screwing them all up. In order to have an authentic period jacket you must have the right pattern, materials and CONSTRUCTION. Since the button holes are screwed up, you're lacking the construction part of this 3 step method. Everything else is just speculation since no one in this thread has seen your jacket.

Your statements are why I made my conclusions on why the coat is not authentic.

This lady has been making uniforms for years so she has a lot of experience under her belt.

Does she have experience in making authentic civil war uniforms out of kits from places such as Charlie Childs, etc, etc? Why did she do the button holes with a machine? Do you know any other reenactors who would recommend this lady for future kit projects?

You need to ask yourself these questions next time you consider having the said "lady" make your products.

I'm just trying to help improve your impression.

[Jasper]

Re: Top Stitching

Jason

I say bully you will never learn to sow until you try. I would start small and then move on to bigger things. In my opion starting small would be going over somthing that is already there ( going over face stiching ) it's just like traceing.

take a good needle with a large enough eye so that you can pass two pieces of thread threw it ( you have it right when you tie the not with 4 loose ends )

Follow the in and out pattern of the machined thread ( this will seem odd because you will find yourself weaving in and out right on top of each other don't worry )

Keep the thread tight as tight as you can without breaking it this will give you a pucker effect which can be found in garments made by hand.

use a good quality reproduction or 100% cotton hand quilting thread the thickness of the thread will help aid in covering the thinner machine thread.

Last make sure you do a complete job you should do all visable stiching anything else would be a waste in a number of ways. Also make sure that the colur of your thread is the same every where ( collar, faceing, cuffs, and button holes. )

Jasper


p.s. button holes: if you have large stiching use a seam ripper to cut it a a pair of tweasers to remove the thread. If its small enough then you should be able to go over with no problems.

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Top Stitching

I'm just wondering how yall come to the conclusion that it wasn't made right just by me telling you that the stitching wasn't done by hand? You haven't even seen the jacket...so just wondering what info that I typed in would lead you to believe it is crappy made..What I meant by "it isn't sutler row quality" is that it is not a mainstream jacket. This lady has been making uniforms for years so she has a lot of experience under her belt. Maybe this was a misunderstanding on what I meant to type and what I actually typed. :wink_smil

Don't get me wrong guys, I apprecaite all the info that everyone has given me, but it seems that reading some of the other messages in other threads on the forum that some people on the AC board give info in a condesending manor. It's not real reassuring for those of us wanting to improve our impression to feel like we are being belittled. Maybe I am taking it the wrong way.

Well Jason

You are right by asking this question, but keep in mind many of us have been around the block a few times and "been there done that". Without seeing your jacket first hand we will go off the of the asumption that your coat is like every other "handmade by a great lady" jacket that we have seen. Keep in mind this is coming from both coasts from people that do not know one another. Keep grasping for that brass ring brother,and take our advice and get yourself a jacket from Dailey or Childs. :wink_smil

[markmason]

Re: Top Stitching

Here's why:


In order to have an authentic period jacket you must have the right pattern, materials and CONSTRUCTION. Since the button holes are screwed up, you're lacking the construction part of this 3 step method. Everything else is just speculation since no one in this thread has seen your jacket.

Sir, to you and others on our fine board. Do you know what constitutes proper construction? Aside from buttonholes or topstitching where and when the pattern calls for it?

This fine gentleman has a very very valid point to make, and he has stated it clearly. He is wanting to ask questions and learn, and those of us who may think we are helping with the answers I have seen on this thread thus far, are left for the birds. What makes Childs kits so difficult to properly put together that a "lady with extensive sewing experience could not do so? This person may not know what the hell a RDII is but, by god, this person could probably out do a lot of us. Let's hope this may be the case with our fine comrade and his jacket.

Bully for you brother. If your jacket is muck, your comrades will see it, and only then provide proper constructive criticism.

GOOD LUCK

[Yellowhammer]

Re: Top Stitching

Jason,

To move away from the jacket for a second and into your interest in learning to sew, I recommend making a pair of drawers. I agree with Robert that an issue shirt is a good project, but some novice sewers have difficulty setting the collar and sleeves.

There are several advantages to making drawers:

1) In most patterns, there are only 8-10 pieces (2 legs, 2 fly facings, 4 waistband pieces) so laying out the pattern and cutting are simple.

2) The material, canton flannel, is inexpensive so if you screw something up, you aren't working with expensive jean or kersey.

3) The construction process uses the three main stitches you will use in most construction projects which are: backstitch, felling stitch and buttonhole stitch.

Personally, I started sewing on haversacks and then made some bad choices. If you start slow and work up, you will be making shirts and more complicated garments fairly quickly. Another good early project is a shelter half. Those 23 buttonholes and 8 grommets will certainly give you plenty of practice with your buttonholes.

[Masked Battery]

Brief comment on Civil War era stitching.

I've examined quite a number of original garments (CS and civilian) from our period of interest, and...

# I've seen that were topstitched using a backstitch = 0
# I've seen that were sewn with doubled thread = 0

I've noticed that some jackets had exterior stitching using two different types of thread. In some cases, buttonholes, belt loops, and buttons were sewn with a noticably heavier thread than the rest of the exterior stitching, which makes sense, since these areas would be considered "load bearing."
Also, I wouldn't recomend trying to hand-stitch over existing machine-stitching. Pull the old thread out first.

[Hank Trent]

Re: Brief comment on Civil War era stitching.

I've examined quite a number of original garments (CS and civilian) from our period of interest, and...

# I've seen that were topstitched using a backstitch = 0
# I've seen that were sewn with doubled thread = 0

I was going to ask about the same thing, based on what I've seen of civilian garments. Stitching over the machine stitching in a backstitch with doubled thread is going to make for a very heavy seam, heavier than I've seen on civilian garments at least, and far more than necessary for function.

Also, pulling the thread as tight as possible to pucker the cloth is not a good thing, quality-wise, if I'm picturing it right. But if that's what was commonly seen on uniforms then it's what should be done, of course.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[GaReb52nd]

Re: Top Stitching

Jason,

To move away from the jacket for a second and into your interest in learning to sew, I recommend making a pair of drawers. I agree with Robert that an issue shirt is a good project, but some novice sewers have difficulty setting the collar and sleeves.

There are several advantages to making drawers:

1) In most patterns, there are only 8-10 pieces (2 legs, 2 fly facings, 4 waistband pieces) so laying out the pattern and cutting are simple.

2) The material, canton flannel, is inexpensive so if you screw something up, you aren't working with expensive jean or kersey.

3) The construction process uses the three main stitches you will use in most construction projects which are: backstitch, felling stitch and buttonhole stitch.

Personally, I started sewing on haversacks and then made some bad choices. If you start slow and work up, you will be making shirts and more complicated garments fairly quickly. Another good early project is a shelter half. Those 23 buttonholes and 8 grommets will certainly give you plenty of practice with your buttonholes.

Actually I have been practicing basic stitching over the past couple of months. I have made all of my food/ditty bags and enclosed the pull cord in the material and made "button holes" where the cord comes out of the fabric. Of course all this is hand sewn and not machined. I have also made my own sleeping cap. I'm not saying any of it is perfected. But the last couple of bags I made, I had exactly 5 stitches per inch. Now I am not wanting to open up a can of worms on how many per inch and such. Just that my skills are getting a little better.

If you can direct me to where I can get an authentic pattern for the drawers and the Federal contract shirt I would really appreciate it.

[Jefferson Guards]

Re: Top Stitching

Neal and Hank,

What kind of stitch have you seen used in topstitching civilian garments?

[Hank Trent]

Re: Top Stitching

Neal and Hank,

What kind of stitch have you seen used in topstitching civilian garments?

Running stitch.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net